MOve up limits?

  • 8 replies
    • pzhon
      pzhon
      Bronze
      Joined: 17.06.2010 Posts: 1,151
      To play safely at some level, you need both skills and the bankroll. The bankroll alone does not give you skills or make you safe.

      If you have been doing well over many tournaments at lower levels, then you might want to take a shot at a higher level. You might set aside 5 buy-ins for the higher level, and reassess after you lose the 5 buy-ins or play 50 tournaments.
    • jass1960
      jass1960
      Bronze
      Joined: 15.04.2010 Posts: 709
      Originally posted by pzhon
      To play safely at some level, you need both skills and the bankroll. The bankroll alone does not give you skills or make you safe.

      If you have been doing well over many tournaments at lower levels, then you might want to take a shot at a higher level. You might set aside 5 buy-ins for the higher level, and reassess after you lose the 5 buy-ins or play 50 tournaments.
      Not trying to hijack but I have a similar question and this seemed a good thread to join rather than repeating this thread :P

      I have been playing $4 rush tourneys and am wondering about moving up - I moved up about a month ago and got trashed - more variance and poor play (after analyse) than much better players IMHO.

      I moved back down but have been on a roll and I now have 130 BI at $11 rush - I was thinking of investing $300 and playing 25 tournaments - is that enough to give me a proper feel for this level?

      Cheers Jass
    • pzhon
      pzhon
      Bronze
      Joined: 17.06.2010 Posts: 1,151
      That sounds like a good plan. You can even play a longer set number of tournaments if you don't hit the stop-loss. That is, you might play until you lose $300 or 100 tournaments, and then reassess.

      You have been winning a lot in $4 tournaments. Think about how you are gaining your advantage, and see whether you still find those advantages in the $11 tournaments. Try to figure out whether there are plays which give you trouble which are more common at the next level, and work on how to respond and whether to incorporate those plays into your own game.
    • jass1960
      jass1960
      Bronze
      Joined: 15.04.2010 Posts: 709
      Originally posted by pzhon
      That sounds like a good plan. You can even play a longer set number of tournaments if you don't hit the stop-loss. That is, you might play until you lose $300 or 100 tournaments, and then reassess.

      You have been winning a lot in $4 tournaments. Think about how you are gaining your advantage, and see whether you still find those advantages in the $11 tournaments. Try to figure out whether there are plays which give you trouble which are more common at the next level, and work on how to respond and whether to incorporate those plays into your own game.
      Thanks for the advice - I will try for 100 with that stop limit. I find set mining works a treat at $4 - no one seems to know where the fold button is, it will be interesting to see if that is the case at a higher limit. My problem area is folding TPTK - I lose a lot to overpairs!!
    • MikeAK47
      MikeAK47
      Bronze
      Joined: 11.03.2008 Posts: 136
      Originally posted by jass1960
      Originally posted by pzhon
      That sounds like a good plan. You can even play a longer set number of tournaments if you don't hit the stop-loss. That is, you might play until you lose $300 or 100 tournaments, and then reassess.

      You have been winning a lot in $4 tournaments. Think about how you are gaining your advantage, and see whether you still find those advantages in the $11 tournaments. Try to figure out whether there are plays which give you trouble which are more common at the next level, and work on how to respond and whether to incorporate those plays into your own game.
      Thanks for the advice - I will try for 100 with that stop limit. I find set mining works a treat at $4 - no one seems to know where the fold button is, it will be interesting to see if that is the case at a higher limit. My problem area is folding TPTK - I lose a lot to overpairs!!
      Same in $12 SNGs buddy.

      The only difference is there are more good players at that level but if you use a HUD it's no problem assigning them tighter ranges, also you'll see less "completely retarded" plays (for example, stacking off with a gutshot with three to a flush on the flop, calling down pot sized bets with an underpair to the board, calling two all ins with 44/K10 pre-flop, donking out pot on the flop after calling a 4bet pre on a flop of AK10 then folding.)

      I'd say if you ROI is 20%+ then you'll have no problemo at this level.

      If you're losing a lot to overpairs then get yourself a HUD, vital if you're moving up stakes and both HEM and PT3 handle rush games now, then you know who are the tight players are and can fold TPTK to them often.

      Use the trials first to see which one you prefer, I chose PT3 because they gave me reasonable time to test the software out, what can you do in 10 days, go with PT3 IMO ESPECIALLY if you play tournaments.
    • jass1960
      jass1960
      Bronze
      Joined: 15.04.2010 Posts: 709
      Cheers Mike

      Will try out PT3
    • MikeAK47
      MikeAK47
      Bronze
      Joined: 11.03.2008 Posts: 136
      Originally posted by jass1960
      Cheers Mike

      Will try out PT3
      :D

      Good luck!

      It's great, especially for rush where picking up reads is difficult, kind of easy to spot the tight players because they play more hands than the donks because they quick fold more, if I see a player who's played 30 hands when everyone else at the table has only played 10 then he's quick folding a lot (me too! :) )

      Another nice feature is that if you wanted to know what X player had at showdown then you can check it in PokerTracker because even though you quick folded and never saw the rest of the hand FT software still records the whole hand, then you can replay it in PokerTracker later on while the tournament is still playing and see what happened, pretty cool :f_cool:
    • jass1960
      jass1960
      Bronze
      Joined: 15.04.2010 Posts: 709
      Originally posted by MikeAK47
      Originally posted by jass1960
      Cheers Mike

      Will try out PT3
      :D

      Good luck!

      It's great, especially for rush where picking up reads is difficult, kind of easy to spot the tight players because they play more hands than the donks because they quick fold more, if I see a player who's played 30 hands when everyone else at the table has only played 10 then he's quick folding a lot (me too! :) )
      Or he could be like me....

      Fold like crazy when the blinds are low and then slow right down and take every second!!!!!!! :D