Fonyman

    • Fonyman
      Fonyman
      Bronze
      Joined: 18.07.2009 Posts: 55
      Hey!

      I'd like to take part in this course =D. I have some poker-history, I've actually been a member here for over 2 years. But I never managed to make anything out of it. Just a lot of deposits an no cash outs :(

      However now that this course is here and I have some extra time in between work I thought I'd spend some of it on this. My work does take a lot of time though so I will be a slow student. But better than nothing

      I'll get on with some lessons again now. Starting from scratch =D

      C u
  • 14 replies
    • veriz
      veriz
      Black
      Joined: 20.07.2008 Posts: 65,504
      Hello Fonyman,

      Welcome to the Course! Hopefully we will manage to help you out with the winnings. :) Most likely you have a problem with not following the SHC and obviously BRM. SHC = Starting Hand Chart & BRM = Bankroll Management.

      But to take a look at further problems I will be waiting for your homework. :)

      Best Regards.
    • Fonyman
      Fonyman
      Bronze
      Joined: 18.07.2009 Posts: 55
      Hey buddy. Thanks for your time!
      You're definitely right about not following the shc, I suppose I thought I was "better than that". I've been following it now the past hour and it's showing some results

      Here's some homework:
      Question 1: What is your motivation for playing poker?
      Short answer: For my own confidence, I love thinking: "Shit, I'm good at this"
      Long answer: I want to master Poker. By master I mean be super-awesome at it. I know of course it's a long way and I have definitely had some half-assed tries during the last years and actually already given up at it a few times. But I still keep coming back, because I think it's fun and because I know I have it in me to master these strategies. I just need to find the patience and stop thinking for myself that "I know better".

      Of course the money in the end of the tunnel is a motivation aswell. But as of know I just really, really want to rock this thing.


      Question 2: What are your weaknesses when playing poker?
      I forget strategies and rules and I think for myself that my own gut knows better than e.g the SHC. I tilt very easily because I tend to run out of patience if nothing happens. I'm pretty sure that's my biggest problem. I know another weakness I have is not paying attention to the whole hand. I mean I'm playing the hand and I know what I'm doing. But all of a sudden I'm re-raised in the Turn and I think "What the fuck happend preflop and on the flop?". That's annoying

      Question 3: What does it mean to play tight aggressive?
      Tight Agressive means to me to only play the hands that I have control over and to play them effective and right(No joking around with stupid buffs, slow-playing or other bullshit). Don't put myself in difficult situations because that's when I screw up until I learn how to handle them
    • Fonyman
      Fonyman
      Bronze
      Joined: 18.07.2009 Posts: 55
      Just adding another note to my "Diary"=D :

      I often forget to look at position. I need to constantly remind myself ONLY to play in position until I can handle otherwise :D
    • Fonyman
      Fonyman
      Bronze
      Joined: 18.07.2009 Posts: 55
      Here's some more homework jeffe! =D

      Question 1: What do you think you could play differently than suggested in the BSS Starting Hands Chart and why? Well there's the two techniques Isolation and Blind-stealing. I know there's no reason for me to explain them here but I'll do it anyway for the purpose of learning. When im in late position, either at button or cutoff if there's one limper before me I occasionally raise if it seems reasonable that the limper will fold either pre-flop or on the flop and if my hand can defend it. E.g if the limper is bigstacked with 100bb at MP2 and I'm at BU I will raise 5bb with a lot of hands. The same thing goes for Blind-stealing, if I'm at Button or Cut-off and it seems reasonable that the blinds will fold I raise. E.g I'm at cutoff with A3o with no action before me; Occasionally(again) I'll raise 4bb.


      Question 2: Do you have questions about your preflop play?
      I've tried a 3rd thing also which I don't know is correct or not. When I'm at BB and someone at BU and cutoff raises and I have an "ok" hand. I'll re-raise to reject their blind-stealing, if there's more action I don't hesitate folding. E.G: I'm at BB with A5s and CU raises 3bb. BU and SB folds, I re-raise 3x the original raise and CU folds. Any comments on this?

      Question 3: What is the equity of AKo against the top 5% range? 5% means 88+, AJs+, KQs, AKo.
      I'll answer this later :f_biggrin:
    • Fonyman
      Fonyman
      Bronze
      Joined: 18.07.2009 Posts: 55
      The equity is approx. 45%
    • gadget51
      gadget51
      Bronze
      Joined: 23.06.2008 Posts: 5,622
      Seems to me you're on the way already. :s_cool:
    • veriz
      veriz
      Black
      Joined: 20.07.2008 Posts: 65,504
      Welcome to the Course and Best of Luck. Good job! Homework #1 Done!

      Easiest way to fight against tilt is to set up stop-loss technique. Which means if you for example have lost more than 3BIs for a session then you just stop the session for some time. The BI amount is set up from your own results. Some may put it higher, some lower. Also after the stop you can spend some time with evaluation part to become better.

      Most of the other weakness you wrote can easily be fixed by posting hands (analyzing your session). We will start writing feedback to your play. Usually negative feedback will put you into thinking phase and trying to fix all those leaks. It's almost the same as you lose money, you will remember it more than winning part. By this situation it's gonna be that negative feedback you gonna remember and try to avoid them next time.

      Tight style is usually called playing rather selected hands. Like following the Starting Hand Chart. Aggressive should be also pretty clear that already the word says how you should be playing. But the problem playing aggressively is that you have to watch that you don't play too aggressive. Find good spots, find good targets. About The tight-aggressive strategy you can read in this article: "What is the Big Stack Strategy?"

      Hopefully you will enjoy the Course. Some points earned.
    • veriz
      veriz
      Black
      Joined: 20.07.2008 Posts: 65,504
      Good job! Homework #2 Done!

      Isolating can be very profitable actually since people on lower stakes take the fast and easy line by just Fit/Folding too much. With that you will earn in long run a lot profit. Which means you can isolate with even wider range, sometimes even with the all range which you planned to limp.

      Totally agree with you about the stealing ranges. They can be very easily be balanced with even wider range. Depending on the opponent you can as well put a wider stealing range. Against some tight opponents who give up their blinds either preflop or postflop, why not to adjust? Against some shorties you can even steal with smaller raise, for example 3xBB. But don't overdo the stealing situations. Sometimes you might just put yourself into too many difficult spots if opening with marginal hands.

      For the stealing also I can give you a tip, if you see a small stack on blinds then you can even steal with smaller raise size.

      About Question #3:

             Equity     Win     Tie
      UTG    46.32%  37.92%   8.41% { AKo }
      UTG+1  53.68%  45.27%   8.41% { 88+, AJs+, KQs, AKo }

      Hopefully you enjoy the School so far. Some more points earned.
    • Fonyman
      Fonyman
      Bronze
      Joined: 18.07.2009 Posts: 55
      I think I've figured out my biggest problem. I've talked to people who are way over my league and discussed poker with friends and "halfway" learned a lot of techniques and tricks that are over my head. It's kind of like studying silver-articles before understanding the bronze. And now I actually caught myself browsing silver-articles that I didn't really understand because I didn't dig deep enough into the Bronze-articles.

      I think I somehow need to reset my mind. Because the only times I win while playing is when I'm super-strict with myself and have the SHC in front of me.

      I think this is a problem a lot of people can relate to and it also easily puts me on tilt because I get myself in difficult situations and end up loosing money unneccesary time after time after time and then start fucking around.

      I think I need to give myself time limits. Like ONLY play for 40 minutes and then have 20 minute breaks away from the computer. Print the SHC chart and have it next to me computer. I'll also allow myself to isolate and blind-stealing but only from the button and with a tight range.
    • veriz
      veriz
      Black
      Joined: 20.07.2008 Posts: 65,504
      That's really standard. Just maybe take a peace of paper and always note down, when you do win money with hero-calls or when you do win with some hero-play money and at the same time how much you loose. And you will be surprised that you actually will be loosing a lot more money with the fancy play rather than win, always try to remind that during the game!
    • Fonyman
      Fonyman
      Bronze
      Joined: 18.07.2009 Posts: 55
      A bit slow with the homework now. Been playing a lot and showing some results. I'm getting better at controlling myself although unfortunately sometimes I do still tilt. A few days a go I did something similar to a tilt, although I don't know if it counts as a tilt.

      I was sitting on a table with a total maniac, the maniac was winning huge pots after huge pots and getting a lot of money.. So I was sitting there waiting for the one hand to beat him with. I ended up all in with a lower flush than him and he walked away with my money. Problem is I was too focused on getting his money so I forgot my game.

      Anyway. Homework:
      Question 0: Download and install the Equilab.
      Got it!

      Question 1: You are holding KQ. What is your preflop equity against an opponent who has 33? How does the equity change on this flop: J53?
      Preflop is approx. 50%.
      On the flop it's approx. 25% (I thought it would be more actually with the flush draw)

      Question 2: What would you do in the following hand?
      Before I do the math: I would fold because the BU has a huge range here and he might have anything: E.g 47, 44, 55 or 56. Maybe 22, 33 or 66 but he tried to slow play and then decided to protect it. Although if that is the truth and I hit my flush I might be able to get a lot of money from him.

      After doing some math though if I did it right I'm having to put 0.22$ into a 0.88$ pot to call this, gives me a pot odds of about 4,5 : 1. I counted 11 outs for me since 2 of the clubs are discounted to avoid a full house and all 4's would give me a straight. 11 outs on one card gives 3.5 : 1 odds. This shows that a call here would be the right move considering the 4.5 : 1 pot odds.

      There's a chance he also has an overpair(maybe 77 or 88), but I think it's more likely that he would bet on the flop if he had that. Unless again he for a weird reason decided to slow-play and then to protect it when the 5c shows up. But it's an unlikely theory although you never know on these limits. He might also have something like JTc and and considering his min re-raise that he sees my semi-bluff.

      In case he has 44, which is possible, I'm only counting on my flush to show up so I'm sitting here with 6 outs(13 -4 -3(6c, 3c, 4c) = 6) and 7:1 odds which means: no call.

      Putting him on an estimate hand range of what I've been going through*(See range further down) in the post now gives me approx 33% equity meaning according to the PS's equilab I have 2 : 1 odds which mean I should definitely call. There are also some implied odds in the picture if I'd make the flush although they are not too big since a flush is an obvious hand and he might fold if I get there.

      To be honest as I said in the beginning I would probably fold this one, although after doing some math and figuring out a call is long term profitable I would be still more comfortable folding it.

      *Range: (66-22,T7s,87s,76s,65s,54s,43s)

      Question 3: Do you have questions about your postflop play? Post your hand for evaluation. I'm finding postflop play very difficult but I don't have any specific hands to refer to. I used to bluff on turn and river but I have stopped that unless there's no action at all. I'm having problems extracting hand history from William Hill (iPoker). Is there an efficient way to this so I can post it on Pokerstrategy?

      Here's a hand:
      98s on BB - 979 rainbow on Flop
    • Fonyman
      Fonyman
      Bronze
      Joined: 18.07.2009 Posts: 55
      Hello again. I would just like a quick answer on this:

      I've been improving lately and I would like to conclude this week with a report from today (1,128 hands played)

      VP$IP: 13.74
      Preflop raise: 11.79
      Attempt to steal: 27.07
      Fold to steal: 81.40
      C-bet: 28.50

      A few questions related to this:

      Should I be defending my blinds more often?
      Am I too limping too much?

      What would you think if you sat on a table with a player who had stats like this after 1100 hands?

      Thank you very much =)
    • veriz
      veriz
      Black
      Joined: 20.07.2008 Posts: 65,504
      Good job! Homework #3 Done!

      Well, that's at least adjustment against maniacs that you waited for a hand. :) But might of course as well overplay even your hand.

      About Question #1:
      Preflop Equity:

      Equity Win Tie
      UTG 50.78% 50.40% 0.38% { KsQs }
      UTG+1 49.22% 48.84% 0.38% { 3d3c }


      Postflop Equity:

      Board: J:spade: 5:diamond: 3:spade:
      Equity Win Tie
      UTG 26.46% 26.46% 0.00% { KsQs }
      UTG+1 73.54% 73.54% 0.00% { 3d3c }


      About Question #2:
      There are several occasions on turn:
      a) If we take just odds for the FD and we take into account that all our odds are clean. Which means:
      Total Pot = $0,91 ; We have to Call = $0,22 -> According to that it means we are getting ~4,16:1 odds. For flushdraw we would need 4:1. Which tells us that we are getting perfect odds.
      b) If we consider the opponent having sets here:
      Which means we have to discount outs, for example 6 and also 3. Which means we have 7 clean outs so that means we need 6:1 odds. That tells us that we need ~$0,41 on river to make it profitable. If we expect the opponent being loose enough and being able to pay us no-matter what then we can do the Call here properly.
      c) We might even have overcards as outs or even 4 as a out:
      Although this kind of situation ain't that likely. I'd rather discount that one and either pick a) or b). Most likely towards Call.

      You are doing great progress, keep going!
    • veriz
      veriz
      Black
      Joined: 20.07.2008 Posts: 65,504
      VP$IP: 13.74
      Preflop raise: 11.79
      Attempt to steal: 27.07
      Fold to steal: 81.40
      C-bet: 28.50

      Well, VPIP/PFR seem to be fine. Although the attempt to steal could easily even be higher. Try to find more hands to steal, especially from BU. CB is also way too low, you only CBetting made hands?

      Should I be defending my blinds more often?

      Rather avoid defending on lower limits with very weak hands. You way too often put yourself into difficult spots.

      Am I too limping too much?

      Well, I can't say that without even seeing the hands. :D

      What would you think if you sat on a table with a player who had stats like this after 1100 hands?

      Read above what I wrote about stats. :) Also of course you are easy target to steal money from.