This post has been edited 1 time(s), it was last edited by vinipyx77: 20.01.2012 15:45.
It's never too late to start all over again.
Question 1: What is your motivation for playing poker? (Be as vague or specific as you want with this one, but try to think of all the reasons and elaborate on them.)
In comparison with usual work, in poker all depends only on you.
If you work on your game, and earnings will grow, you can buy a nice house and car.
If you work on usual work and you work overtime and hard, it only means that your chief will have a beautiful house and the car, but you will ride on the subway or in general will dismiss. So at least was at me - have dismissed and haven't paid = (
Question 2: What are your weaknesses when playing poker? (What are the mistakes you know you are making during your games? Are you playing while you're tired? Are you tilting easily? Want to see the showdown too much? Write down as many as you think are affecting you.)
I can not keep long time concentration (more than 3 hours and I am already braked)
Question 3: What does it mean to play tight aggressive? (Describe in your own words what playing tight aggressive is and why does it work.)
To wait a good hand and a good position.
Play aggressive. However, we should remember- "Knowing when you are beat or when the price is too high can save you a lot of money."
Welcome to the Course and Best of Luck. Good job! Homework #1 Done!
Lack of concentration is a common leak for beginners. They just play with music, watching TV, reading forums. But those kind of distractions really will just make you loose more money. Ain't ya there for win money?
So act like that and force yourself always close all kind of distractions and try to stay concentrated on the tables. Everyone will find their own way how they are able to concentrate more.
What about tilt? Do you adjust somehow against tilt, for example:
Easiest way to fight against tilt is to set up stop-loss technique. Which means if you for example have lost more than 3BIs for a session then you just stop the session for some time. The BI amount is set up from your own results. Some may put it higher, some lower. Also after the stop you can spend some time with evaluation part to become better.
Tight style is usually called playing selected hands. Like following the Starting Hand Chart. Aggressive should be also pretty clear that already the word says how you should be playing. But the problem playing aggressively is that you have to watch that you don't play too aggressive. Find good spots, find good targets. About The tight-aggressive strategy you can read in this article: "What is the Big Stack Strategy?"
Question 1: What do you think you could play differently than suggested in the BSS Starting Hands Chart and why?
Purpose chart of starting hands is to keep safety our money, but it can not get to maximize your winnings.
Chart also does not take into account all available information, if I know that the opponent performs a specific action on the flop with a certain range of hands, then I'm going to play differently than already in the chart by simply using this information. Also, we do not use the statistics, I think there is a difference between a statistic opp 60/40 and 12/12.
Chart summarizes the information! AT and AQ is not the same, In the first case, we will overestimate the strength of our hand, in the second do not get, yet UTG and UTG 2, MP1 and MP3 is not the same thing.
We do not take into account the stakes players, how big a raise, and which thus at opp was a stack, etc.
Chart as a whole does not fall into a marginal situation, which is good for beginners who can not yet discern what their combination, which is stronger than a straight or flush (flush why it is stronger if it is easier to collect than straight
), why he lost when he was pair before the flop on the table came out two pairs of rank higher, and the opponent won the post with some ace when he is 3 pairs
How is it possible to compile such a complex game like poker, on one sheet of A4 size
I wouldn't say only safety of our money but rather that it avoids us making difficult situations where we most likely would lose money. But overall that's true, with time we will adjust our ranges anyways.
If the chart would also take into account stats and any information then it wouldn't be 1page long.
Kind of hard to put all the information into charts, that's why there are videos/articles/hand evaluation forums.
It doesn't categorize the hand as AT/AQ into same category because they ain't in same category. AT is more often dominated and a lot of beginners do mistakes with it like overplaying TP type of hand.
Turn: ($0.25) 5
BB checks, Hero bets $0.22, BU raises to $0.44, BB folds, Hero...?
The preflop raise in 4bb c CO-well.
The flop comes with two opponent and draw-flop continuation bet bet is not necessary, as we have done well,
The turn was given the passivity of the opponent on the flop and came flush draw, you must bet yourself, the only question is HOW MUCH? - I think $ 0.15 would be enough to knock out opponents that if they have nothing.
As for the game we put a rather large bet almost the pot - $ 0.22, and get re-raised BU of x2.
Let's think about what it might mean.
Since no additional information on any opponent no, we will assume that the average player on the button NL2. He makes a min raise, after we demonstrated the strength and the fact that after he has another player, this means raising more force, anything from the closed sets and straights to the terrible play, and other slowplay Aces and over pairs . Therefore, folding looks normal. Nooo
, there is always a BUT, the pot is already large, and we have the nut flush draw. The pot is now $ 0.91 and we need to bring $ 0.22, the ratio of the bank: the rate is 4.13:1 which is enough for a flush draw. Hero CALL
Question 3: Do you have questions about your postflop play? Post your hand for evaluation. http://www.pokerstrategy.com/forum/thread.php?threadid=171106
About Question #2:
There are several occasions on turn:
a) If we take just odds for the FD and we take into account that all our odds are clean. Which means:
Total Pot = $0,91 ; We have to Call = $0,22 -> According to that it means we are getting ~4,16:1 odds. For flushdraw we would need 4:1. Which tells us that we are getting perfect odds.
b) If we consider the opponent having sets here:
Which means we have to discount outs, for example 6 and also 3. Which means we have 7 clean outs so that means we need 6:1 odds. That tells us that we need ~$0,41 on river to make it profitable. If we expect the opponent being loose enough and being able to pay us no-matter what then we can do the Call here properly.
c) We might even have overcards as outs or even 4 as a out:
Although this kind of situation ain't that likely. I'd rather discount that one and either pick a) or b). Most likely towards Call.
This weeks homework was a bit easier. But the idea of that is to help you go through last weeks stuff if you didn't go through everything. Or either way maybe even read some more articles, watch some videos and of course attend in the coaching. What will also help for your game is the evaluation part of other members hands and of course posting your own hands.
If you have interests you could try calculating the equity with a formula which you can use even on tables(either playing online or live poker):
(Amount of outs x 4) – (Amount of outs – 8) = Your Equity
About Task #3
It's a very close decision: does protection or pot control weigh heavier here? Do you want to protect against hands like 3x or A:dx and K:dx? Or do you want to control the pot size and try to induce a bluff on the river in case there is no T, no J and no additional ?
Raise/fold is out of question - with the given pot size and the good made hand you have, it can't even be considered.
In case you decide to go broke, you can't really be blamed either. It's not a sign of weakness that the rather tight small blind decides to bet into two people here, though. I would say a call is to be slightly favored, while the many outs against you are annoying. The big blind who calls rather loosely speaks in favor of a raise/broke again. Both options are finally considered equal, which shows - all things considered - how close and full of variance these spots really are.
About Task #4
You've called pre-flop and then hit a good board. You basically have two choices now: either you assume that your opponent will go broke loosely or puts you on a bluff often and you thus check/raise - or you play check/call in the spirit of way ahead / way behind. The problem with the latter is that there are a lot of cards you don't want to see in the later course of the hand. All in all, it depends on your balancing as both lines make sense under certain circumstances.
A check/fold would be really pointless, of course. It's hard to say whether you should donk-bet here; donk/fold can be discarded as that would turn your hand into a pure bluff and your opponent would interpret this as weakness and start raising you out of flops with hands like AK/AQ/air. So, if you want to donk-bet, it has to be a donk/3-bet.
About Question #3:
Two lines can quickly be discarded here: fold and raise/fold; your hand is simply too strong for those alternatives.
It's hard to assess whether you should put in a raise here. When a rather passive player decides to bet into three players while being out of position, it does look strong. It's more likely an indication of a made hand than that of a draw.
A raise naturally protects, but you run the risk of isolating yourself against very strong range. Which weaker hands could your opponent possibly continue playing here?
The deciding factor finally comes in the size of the pot. This tiny pot simply isn't worth putting yourself into a tough spot where you could potentially end up risking your entire stack. A raise would be overplayed here and pot control takes the precedent over protection.
About Question #3:
In this case, you decided to bet out yourself and two players behind you go all-in. You would have to invest $8.40 in order to participate in a $22 pot, which corresponds to an equity of 27.63%.
Equity Win DrawLoss Hand
Player 1: 38.538% 38.538% 0.000% 61.462% 5h4h
Player 2: 14.540% 14.540% 0.000% 85.460% QQ+
Player 3: 46.921% 46.921% 0.000% 53.079% 22-33
You get the required odds even when you're exclusively up against very strong hands!