Analyse my stats

The winrate is too small, should be at least 4BB/100 Joking.

Aren't you a bit tight preflop?

And I think you could protect your BB a bit more...

Yeah, BB defending could be better. I know that. But I really don't like to defend it, because I don't play it well... But when I decide to defend it, I'm always against a monster

I don't think I'm tight preflop. I play according to SHC but depending on villains stats.

This is actually 1.45 BB/100

I agree with dippy: VPIP & PFR is tigher then it could be. Maybe you should do more loose Iso-raises when IP / just idea..

And my stats:






WtSD is lower than usually because of upswing in last few days.. + W@SD is too high for -0.75 BB/100 hands but it's again due to upswing

Hi CoreySteel,

this is SH right? If so you sholud consider using the bronze charts that the basic SHC chart as it is too tight for SH.
Move but as fast as your BRM allows you to do as the rake is very high at this limit.
Dippy19 said everything about your stats and I gree with him.

@opal99:

You are overdefing your BB a bit. 55% should be better at this limit. At 5/10$ your value is fine.
You attempt to steal is a bit low. Should be around 34%. Do you play by the gold (approx) chart?

Rest seems to be fine.

Originally posted by ciRith
@opal99:

You are overdefing your BB a bit. 55% should be better at this limit. At 5/10$ your value is fine.
You attempt to steal is a bit low. Should be around 34%. Do you play by the gold (approx) chart?

Rest seems to be fine.

Yes, I do (or I try). Attempt to steal = open raise in late position, right? If so, it's too low but maybe problem is somewhere else too: Is this stat affected by limpers? I mean, if there's a limper before, I can't steal anything. But if it's just open raise in late position WHEN you can do that (= everyone folded), then it's very low Any idea how does it work?

19/15 is too tigh even for 0.5/1 SH and maybe 1/2 (its rather nit not TAG) IMO 22/18 is fine (and that's what you have playing accordingly to silver chart)

but I don't like 22/18 for 2/4 and higher.

My stats are ~28/22 and IMO this is fine for TAG nowadays (im using chart from stox book + adjusting to my seat, table and opponents)





Im also playing this style on 3/6 and it works pretty fine (Im -50BB now but its only ~3k h and for example my AA are + 23$ so...)

22/18 on 2/4 or 3/6 could be fine but only for multitablers (6 or more). Im playing only on 3 or 4 so I can observe the game and better exploit my opponents.

Ofc that's only my opinion.


PS Maybe the reason is that on Polish PS we have only 4 people (including me) playing 2/4 or higher and we all prefer 28/22 (our FL coach is rather lagtag not tag (~32/24) but ofc he doesnt play or teach that style in coachings for beginners)

PS2 oh and im also playing on Stars (small rake + many fishes)

So I'm going to join in Here are my stats, and I have just noticed that apparently I'm not a TAG, but something between a TAG and LAG. I have a 26 VPIP!!! And I go to showdowns to often and I don't win often enough

Interestingly enough, it's working for me

Originally posted by ciRith
Hi CoreySteel,

this is SH right? If so you sholud consider using the bronze charts that the basic SHC chart as it is too tight for SH.
Move but as fast as your BRM allows you to do as the rake is very high at this limit.
Dippy19 said everything about your stats and I gree with him.

I'm not using basic chart. Or am I? I downloaded this 6max chart from German Gold forum, few months ago, when I was still gold.

Edit: As it looks like, I'm using chart from silver article:
http://www.pokerstrategy.com/strategy/fixed-limit/265/3/
Direct link: xxx

Isn't this good enough?

That's not LAG but a decent TAG. Everything between 25/18 - 28/22 is taggish (tagish?) style. LAG is sth like ~35/25 - 40/30 but I doubt it could be profitable in LS games.

And about ATS -> it counts only in situations when you're first to act so 28% is much 2low. But I don't agree with ciRith that 34% is fine. (I prefer >40%)
Hmm... but Im not used to 1/3 structure where 34% can be best (less dead money from the blinds)

@ CoreySteel These charts are OK but its a bit surprising that your stats are so tight. (IMO should be ~22/18 maybe 21/17 but rather 23/19) I say that because Ive played about 40k hands (0.5/1 and 1/2) with silvercharts and I had ~22/18

Originally posted by Masqb
My stats are ~28/22 and IMO this is fine for TAG nowadays (im using chart from stox book + adjusting to my seat, table and opponents)

What's the name of it? I know Yoghi mentioned it too but I don't remember..

Hmm.. the name of what?

Joining with my stats..

First beauty:




And the second one:

Originally posted by Masqb
Hmm.. the name of what?

of that Stox's book. Is it "Winning in Tough Hold 'em Games: Short-Handed and High-Stakes Concepts and Theory for Limit Hold 'em"? (I've just ordered it)

Yes thats the title and its definitely worth reading. I think this book really improved my game.

Masqb I really like that you discussing here. Anyway just because 28/22 works it doesn't mean that 22/18 isn't better. Sure this is too tight for the midstaked (10/20$+) but below it works very well.
I was wrong about 22/18 anyway. Best should be 23/17 - 25/19. These should be the optimal values. This doesn't mean that YOU can win more with playing more but you could.
34% attempt to steal is the value you get if you play by the ORC. This value highly depends on your opponents (limpers, etc. as you said) so if you think that you steal well then just ignore my comment above.
Masqb the rake is aas you mentioned very important. The rake at 1/2$ is so high that if you play too many borderline hands that you lose value because of that.
There are hundreds of TAG who play with success. Maybe the polish players just need a bit more time to reach these limits as an aggressive style makes it easier to move up but it doesn't mean that it's really has more vale.
I may say the same thing again but of course you can play more aggressive but it isn't recommended to beginners and not necessary on the lower limits as well.

The Stoxtrader book is nice but not necessary on the lower limits as well. Well it's never bad to know more.

Alright now about the stats.

@Masqb: You are overdefending your BB and that is maybe the reason why your VPIP is higher than usual. This can be profitable but you should read these two articles so that you don't lose to much money postflop:

http://www.pokerstrategy.com/strategy/fixed-limit/1049/
http://www.pokerstrategy.com/strategy/fixed-limit/1050/

@Dippy19: May it be that you coldcall to much in the SB? Your folded SB to steal is to low and that could be the reason for your high VPIP. Your wts is borderline for this limit (ok for 2/4 and 3/6). Don't increase anymore.

@CoreySteel: I had to remove the second link as it's not restriced for bronze.

@tomzyb: Take another look at the ORC and at this article:

http://www.pokerstrategy.com/strategy/fixed-limit/265/

Your PFR is a bit too low. You seemed to got weaker in the SB on the higher limit. Make sure that you are not on scaredmoney. Try to get 85% for the SB and 55% for the BB.
Your wts is way to low. I think you get bluffed out too often.
If you get raied take a look it he might have raised on draw or if he is very aggressive then call him down with a good made hand even if you can't image a worse hand at his side.

@All: Please don't overrate your stats. Don't change your game because of them. If your game is good then the stats will look good as well but jthis isn't given the other way around. Good stats do not say that you really play good.
Don't start getting loser just because your stats look weak. Improve your game and the stats will become better.
Most important: The stats are highly dependant on the samplesize. It may that you just got no hands over 10k+ hands and that your wts is low because of that. Or your attempt to steal is too low because the table limps all the time ahead of you. And so on. (That means that you shouldn't overrate my comments about your stats as well. )

I totally agree that 22/18 is the most profitable style for 0.5/1 and 1/2 but on 2/4 you can find so many 22/18 abc tags that IMO you should try to win some money also from them.

My stats are a bit higher than typical good TAG (25/18) but it's not because I'm playing much more hands. The reason is I do very good seat selection (I try at least). On Stars there are so many tables that I can easily choose not only a table but also a seat (or just wait for good one) I dont play if I have not a poor player on my right (or second right).

My ATS is so high because I often have peoples like 22/18 or 24/10 on my left (again a seat selection) and abc Tag don't adjust good to a decent stealer. With good stealing you can win so many pots (hero raise, BB call, Flop xxx, hero bets, BB folds).

Ive just compared SC BTN steel range with my range:



What is a real difference between 33 and 22? (ye I know - your equity but equity is not everything)

When the blinds are really tight or play much to often fit-or-fold I even add a few more hands. I also like playing hands with loose players (because they are much worse postflop). But when the SB is a loose fish and BB is decent player I steel with fewer hands.

And about K7o -> These small offsuited kings dont have good winrate in my base (Stox plays only K9o+ from BTN)

IMO if you want to make your steeling more profitable you have to good adjust to the Blinds (Ive written above how I do that)

Hmm and about my BB defense. I'm not sure if it's true but if I have loose SB and he coldcalls I have pretty good odds to play more hands (except these RIO's - reverse implaid odds)

Oh and about my Vpip it can be so high cuz I often play in 3 or 4 handed games. IN 5-6 handed I believe its ~26-27/20-21.

I don't know any 22/18 from 2/4 or 3/6 so I cant tell which style is more profitable but Ive seen what happend to Terrorblade when he played 22/18 on 5/T.

CiRith I do not know what stakes are you playing at but if you played 2/4 or 3/6 a year ago it can be a huge difference. (not only PS members studying the game)

PS At least I found somebody to talk about FL Thx guys!


PS2 Im not telling that Im such a good player (tbh Im a big fish ) but I believe abc TAG style is really easy to exploit.

Ahh so your stats don't result froma much looser game. I totally agree with you on your points (I started raising K8o aqnd K7o again to get looser myself.
Also I raise all pocketpairs one kicker looser (22 from the BU etc.).
If you want to adjust then raising small suited connectors is the way to do it. But I can't give this advice generally as if this is done without thinking is loses all his value (doing it against 40 VPIP+ opponent etc is just not profitable).
But as I mentioned above it's a lot about the sample size. If the tables are good for 5k hands and you get better hands then your stats seem to be wrong where they aren't.

I play 3/6$ and 5/10$ myself. (Still.... I can't motivate myself to play a lot so a downswing lasts a year and more for me. )

Abc TAG is indeed exploitable but don't judge a TAG by his stats or your money is gone faster than you might notice.

Don't make the mistake and say that 22/18 is bad just because TerrorBlade had a bad start. This may be because his postflop play isn't good enough or he had a normal downswing. Maybe he was scared of the higher bets etc..

When I see 22/18 I know he uses only charts. Adjusting TAG has ~25-28/18-22. (like Dippy)
Ofc in FL most money is made postflop so preflop is not the most important thing.

Im not so sure about small SC and loose BB (40%+). If he is passive you can easily see all community cards (cbet flop, check behind turn) with any draw (they dont c/r flops so often) so your bluffing equity is smaller but you can draw cheaper.