Question 1: What is your motivation for playing poker?
My motivation for playing poker is twofold.
My first motivation is really based on the nature of the game. I really like the game because it is so complex and based on incomplete information, where skill makes the difference between players. The fact that sometimes luck plays a factor is really interesting as well. Before I started playing poker, I was a chess player. Nowadays with all the technologies, chess is almost close to being solved as very powerful computers can calculate 25 moves and even more, in advance. This is not really the case in poker. Even if you get your money in as an 80 percent favorite, you still have a chance to loose (obviously 1 out of 5 times). Besides this, we have to make our decisions against ranges and with the incomplete information that we have.
Secondly, I am just a very competitive person in general. I decided to work hard to improve which is what I am doing until now. The fact that you can earn some money by playing a game that you really enjoy playing, makes it even more interesting for me.
Last but not least, my ultimate goal would be to grind 100 NL and maybe even 200 NL. But I am realistic and I know that this is a long way ahead, but I really think that one should set his goals as high as possible. If you put in the work, the results will come.
Question 2: What are your weaknesses when playing poker?
It's really hard for me to come up with 1 real weakness, because I suffer from a couple of weaknesses like most poker players. One of them is tilting when you lose your big hands as a massive favorite against a fish who just sucks out on you and leaves the table with your money. I also noticed that I get nervous when things don't go the way I want them to go. I start to call down too light and I really become a bit spewy. This works either way: when I am winning I have too much confidence, when I am loosing, I want my money back and I start jamming JJ over a 4 bet, and facing KK or AA...
Question 3: What does it mean to play tight aggressive?
I was already quite aware of this playing style, which is also what I try to do of course.
1) Play tight: selected starting hands, avoid dominated hands for example in EP. Open tight in early position and loosening up massively on the button, as you always play in position. Also in the cut-off, my opening range is quite wide. The closer to the button, the wider.
2) Play aggressive: try to have the betting lead, be the aggressor and have the initiative in the hand instead of just calling down all the way (like a loose passive player). This also works pre-flop: not cold-call 3 bets all the time especially out of position - and look to 4 bet or fold because you'll end up in a lot of awkward spots. Your opponent has the initiative and more important also position.
3) Play in position. This is just key. Especially with fish / loose passive players at the table, I aim to have position on them or I just leave the table. I want to have fishes/loose passives on my right, and NITs on my left.
Welcome to the course. Good work on the first homework. Bogdan one of the coaches helping you in the course, will be by in the coming days to check your homework. I see you're new to pokerstrategy.com as well.
How about introducing yourself to the guys and gals? Also you might find these interesting.
This post has been edited 1 time(s), it was last edited by ferrari1f: 10.11.2013 09:21.
Thanks for the feedback.
I did introduce myself already in this topic. I also received the free money at Coral Poker. I started to play there as well, to collect strategy points. For now however, the bronze status is sufficient, but I plan to move up in ranks of course.
I am also trying to be more active in the hand analysis topics. I am not sure if that is appreciated, but I like to discuss hands and see what other people think about my thinking process and how I can improve that.
As already said, hoping to improve my game drastically.
Good job with the first homework. It is very detailed and shows that you care and put in a good effort.
To reduce the effects of one of your weaknesses, tilt, I would recommend that you come up with a stop loss plan where you abandon the tables at the first sign of tilt. Perhaps that is after you lose 2 stacks or maybe 3 stacks.
This post has been edited 3 time(s), it was last edited by ferrari1f: 22.11.2013 06:06.
Some time ago that I posted something here.
Currently finalising homework 2. I did spend some time on the "Crushing NL50" - series
To give an update about my own game: I moved up to 10 NL since I am properly rolled. My BRM is pretty conservative (50-60 BIs) but that's how I can bring my A-game to the tables. I started to play 3x 5 NL and 2x 10NL tables but I noticed very quickly that I was playing differently on the new tables... I ran very bad, but sometimes I was not happy with my decisions neither. Very quickly I lost 6 BIs...
Since I knew that I was running bad and not bringing my A-game, I decided to clear the 40 EUR bonus and give it another try - this time directly 4 or 6x 10 NL tables hoping that moving up this time wouldn't affect my game. I use to 6-table at 2 and 5 NL, so why not do it at 10 NL right away. It is a bit contra-intuitive that opening more tables results in bringing my A-game to the tables, but I guess it has something to do with patience. I find myself becoming inpatient and spewing around, forcing myself to win pots, betting just to win pots, and so on. This could be different for someone else I guess, but for me at least it calms me down. I am still a bit too tight, but I guess I'll loosen up as soon as I am used to the new limit. It was also the case when I moved up to 5 NL.
My sample is still very small (to non existing, lol) - something like 3 000 hands - but I am back on track. Almost back into the green figures. Still 1,5 BI down, but it is more important to be able to continue playing these limits and improve from there rather than having to move down again. I do have the impression that I should be able to at least break-even. Still plenty of fish and of course, labeling them so that table selection becomes an easy job in the coming days
If you coaches have any tips - feel free to comment, it's really appreciated. Oh and my homework for lesson 2 is coming. Definitely working on it
This post has been edited 1 time(s), it was last edited by ferrari1f: 25.11.2013 18:18.
I play regular 6 MAX tables.
I just continued playing 6 tables and after 9500 hands I can see that I am winning (only 2,5 BIs so far). It's going well so far. I don't think there is much difference between 5 NL and 10 NL. The fish pool is as huge as on 5 NL, so there is plenty of money on the tables.
Indeed, one of the main reasons is getting bored. I find myself playing comfortable when playing 6 tables. It's not too fast and still allows me to focus on table dynamics. Keeping up this pace and I'll see how it goes. My BRM is very conservative (60 BIs per level), but planning to already try NL 16 when I have 50 BIs there.
Originally posted by BogdanPS
I would say that one of the few differences between nl5 and nl10 is the bankroll you need. So as long as you are rolled for it you should be fine.
Keep up the good work !!!
As you know, PokerStars is running NL16 tables. It's an odd limit... Would you advice to skip NL16 and build up the bankroll until properly enrolled for NL25 ?
I have to share your opinion that NL5 and NL10 are both very fishy and rather similar. That's my experience so far, and it's going pretty well until now. Quite happy with my play and progress so far.
However, never stop looking forward, so my question this time: how would you describe the differences between NL10 and NL25 (and NL16) ? Would you advice to first try to beat NL16 or would you advice to jump to NL25 immediately? I've read multiple things already, but not really sure what I should believe.
This post has been edited 2 time(s), it was last edited by ferrari1f: 30.11.2013 21:57.
Question 1: What do you think you could play differently than suggested in the BSS Starting Hands Chart and why? (Are there any hands you would play differently? Do you have a problem or question about how a specific hand or hands should be played?)
To be honest, I looked at the hand chart but I was not convinced at all since it is simply too static... I also saw the Crushing 50NL series. In one of those videos they mentioned the open-raise starting chart. All I can say is that I use the opening ranges as explained in this video (happened to be like that so I guess I am doing something right here
Question 2: Do you have questions about your preflop play? Post your hand for evaluation. ( Post your hand in the Hand evaluation forums and provide a link to your hand in your private thread in the Locker Room.)
In terms of pre-flop play, I'd like to get more information about 3 and 4 bet dynamics. If you could forward me to some good material, that would be nice.
I posted couple of hands from my bad session of today (-7 BIs). Hopefully i had a good session yesterday but it doesn't compensate
. It has been like every single time. One day I run normal (my big hands hold...) but the day after I lose everything and more... Opponents hitting just too hard over and over again and really difficult to get away from it...
Question 3: What is the equity of AKo against the top 5% range? 5% means 88+, AJs+, KQs, AKo. ( You can either calculate this yourself or use an equity calculator such as the PokerStrategy.com Equilab.)
This post has been edited 1 time(s), it was last edited by ferrari1f: 01.12.2013 20:23.
Question 0: Download and install the Equilab. (You can download the Equilab for free here: PokerStrategy.com Equilab.)
Done! I've also been using PokerStove until now. But I spotted that Equilab has an equity trainer which is quite useful to train and practise a bit.
Question 1: You are holding K
. What is your preflop equity against an opponent who has 3
? How does the equity change on this flop: J
? (Tip: you can use the Equilab to help you with this task.)
Pre-flop it is a flip. You have close to 50 % equity here.
It changes quite a bit on the flop. We only have 26 % left.
Question 2: What would you do in the following hand? (Remember that it is important to explain your reasons, simply posting "Fold" or "Call" isn't enough!)
We get min-raised on the turn and we do have the nut flush draw. The pot is 91 cents and it is another 22 cents for us to complete. We do get a really good price here: approx. 3:1 to make the call or in other words, 25 % equity is all we need.
I don't really expect villain to be bluffing in this spot. Since he is on the button, he has a wide range so a he could definitely have a hand like 34s or 45s. I expect villain to bet the flop with his flopped straight and probably check back into 2 opponents with his gutshot. I also think that he definitely needs to bet a set here (22, 66, 33). Even if he decides to check his set in position on this flop, it's not changing our decision at all.
We do have enough implied odds if a
comes on the river. We have 9 outs which gives us around 18-20 % equity but we have enough implied odds for sure. It's difficult for our opponent to lay down the straight since we had a backdoor flush draw and expects it less to be beat against a flush if the
hits. However, he might lay down a set, but I don't think that he has a set here often since he should bet for clear value on the flop... I think that not betting the set on the flop is a mistake and that's why I think he has the straight way more often here.
To conclude, it's a really easy call. It was clear but I had some difficulties writing it down as clear as possible but I tried my best
This post has been edited 1 time(s), it was last edited by ferrari1f: 04.12.2013 15:18.
Originally posted by BogdanPS
What are your 3-bet/4-bet ranges ATM?
Of course, it really depends a lot:
- Who is villain?
- My position
- My actual hand
I recently moved up to 16NL but I can tell you what I am doing at 10NL. Not sure if and how I will adapt on higher limits and more aggression. I still need to think about that and learn by experience. I really think that this is one of my bigger leaks or areas where I really have to work on.
But really, my 3 bets are for pure value
JJ) QQ+, AK. Against some villains I flat JJ in position, against others I 3 bet them. Same with QQ (for instance super tight guy who opens UTG). Against fish AQ and 99-TT are also in my range especially when they love to call OOP a lot.
Out of position it's a bit different. Let's say from SB vs CO or BTN open, I often also 3 bet smaller to mid PP since I don't want to play them OOP. I 3-bet or fold most often. Rarely i flat but it happens from time to time as well. Also hands like AQ (and AJ) I tend to 3 bet, to avoid playing OOP. If I get called, I still expect to be in good shape quite often.
About 4 betting? Pure value. KK - AA. Against fish also QQ sometimes even AKs. It depends on the notes and reads I have.
Overal my 3 bet percentage is 6 %. I use HM. If there is some report to run or to show, let me know. Really looking forward to improve. So far it's going well, so happy that I could start on 16 NL already. Beating 25 NL and 50 NL is definitely one of my resolutions for 2014, so keep working like hell !
This post has been edited 1 time(s), it was last edited by ferrari1f: 11.12.2013 22:03.
Question 1: Post a hand for evaluation in which you have the initiative postflop. (Post your hand in the Hand evaluation board, and provide a link to your hand in your private thread.)
It's a pity that Bronze members cannot post hands anymore. But I used to post several hands in the past, so I can say that I already completed this "question".
Question 2: Evaluate one of the hands submitted by other members. (Choose a hand from the Hand evaluation board and post your own evaluation in the thread. Post a link to the hand you have evaluated in your private thread. You can evaluate as many hands as you want, but try to choose hands not yet evaluated by other users.)
Again. Had some nice discussions with other members on several hands. Very useful. Will try my best to reach Silver as soon as possible.
Question 3: You are on the flop with KQ. The board cards are J, 9, 8, and your opponent holds 77. What is your equity in this spot?
You still have around 40 % equity. 4xT, 3xK and 3xQ giving you 10 outs. Rule of 2 and 4 roughly 40 %. I used poker stove as well, and exact number is 41.4 %.
Let me edit, also to give an update about my progress (for those who are interested). I took shots at 16 NL and I was slightly winning for about 6000 hands (I won almost 5 BIs), but last 2-3k hands I managed to donk away almost 15 BIs, so pretty bad. Hopefully I won 5 BIs before, but still a very bad result. I decided to move back down to 10 NL and I even played 5 NL today just to gain back my confidence. That is going pretty well. My win rates at 5 and 10 NL are pretty solid (6-7 bbs) over reasonable sample sizes so I definitely beat those limits and I should definitely take shots at 16 NL if my bankroll allows me. But as I said, pretty bad results there. The higher aggression is definitely noticeable and last 4 000 hands I felt like I was getting bullied by the whole table and getting coolered way too often... Part of those bad results are due to running bad, but for the most part I should just keep on improving my game
Villain C-bet the flop every time out of 10 times and he only continued 2/10 times on the turn which means he usually gives up when he misses on the turn, which makes him very easy to float. At that time, I decided that a float on this board texture was good since he could very easily have just 2 overcards and since I expected him to barrel again with an overpair.
As a side note I would like to mention that I usually don't look at individual stats all the time. This question was not too difficult but also not too easy since I tend to get a feeling for players based on all the stats I have on them which I think is a very good approach. I've seen videos on YouTube lately where people make decisions based on very specific stats over a small sample size which in my opinion is very bad. I don't know how to explain how I sometimes evaluate players, but after time you develop some kind of feeling, you classify villains as specific as possible (fish, loose passive, regular, regular who folds too much in spot X). Especially the last one like "reg who folds too often in spot X" makes it very easy to exploit even the "regulars" on your limit. This kind of information is something that I gather while playing by paying attention to the hands on showdown and how they react in certain spots. My decisions is based on not just 1 stat like this hand here, but on the general overview and the read that I develop on a player over time.
Question 2: Evaluate one of the hands submitted by other members. (Choose a hand from the Hand evaluation board and post your own evaluation in the thread. Post a link to the hand you have evaluated in your private thread. You can evaluate as many hands as you want, but try to choose hands not yet evaluated by other users first.)
Don't know if I can find them back but I had a couple of very interesting discussions already in the hand evaluation forums. It has been some days that I didn't read the hand evaluation forums, but I'll be around very soon again.
Question 3: Consider the following situation:
What action would you take, and why?
This one is a difficult spot. I would just call and re-evaluate on the river. The small-blind decides to lead quite big into 2 opponents. It is even more surprising to me that BB just calls. We could argue that we have to protect our hand by raising and planning to stack-off (because we really never raise-fold in this spot given the pot size and the strength of our hand). But on the other hand, we could also just decide to just call for pot control since our flush is only 8 high. If another diamond hit on the river, we could easily fold our flush because we don't beat anything except a bluff. Also, when a blank hits, we can still evaluate based on bet size from opponent. I really think it's a close decision between stacking-off and calling for pot control and re-evaluation on the river. If we just call and villain checks the river, I would just check behind and go to showdown with our 8 high flush since it's a bit too thin to value bet in this spot given the actions in the hand.
Question 4: Consider the following situation:
What action would you take, and why?
First of all, I would like to see how often villain is 3-betting since I think that this stat can already give us some general overview about his ranges. In general, based on the stats here, villain looks a bit loose-aggressive (25-21 and high AF). Also, the C-bet stat would help to complete the general picture of villain. But without this information (and maybe even with, could be that it doesn't affect my decision when they look "standard"), it's again a close spot. We do have an overpair, but BU 3-bet a bit on the larger side. If villain has a value hand, I expect it to be better than JJ more often than not. I also expect him to 3-bet us with AK quite often. So I expect hero to be way-ahead or way-behind.
I think that we have 2 options which are really close:
Check-raise all in
Check-call and re-evaluate the turn but there are really a lot of cards that you don't want to see...
I think that check-raise all in is easier to play against a looser-aggressive opponent since he might think that we are bluffing and stack-off lighter than our JJs...