Long term online poker success with winning strategies – register for free!

The best strategies With the correct strategy, poker becomes an easy game. Our authors show you how to succeed, one step at a time.

The smartest thinkers Learn from and with internationally successful poker pros, in our live coaching sessions and in the forum.

Free poker money PokerStrategy.com is free of charge. Additionally there is free poker money waiting for you.

You are already a PokerStrategy.com member? Log in here!

StrategyNo Limit Midstack

How to Play After the Flop

Introduction

What do you need before you get started?

We've made it to the last part of the Short Stack Strategy - how to play after the first three cards have been revealed.

Whether or not you should invest any more money after the flop depends on how your starting hand connects with the community cards. If you hit, it's time to think about a possible all-in. If you miss, there's not much more to say ...

Watch these lessons on video:

The Short Stack Strategy is also available as video. There is a video dedicated to each article: The Basics, Playing Before the Flop, and Playing After the Flop.

The basics Before the flop After the flop

What kinds of hands can you have?

The article on the rules of Texas Hold'em introduced you to the typical playable hands like straights and flushes. When you play the Short Stack Strategy, there are a few other interesting hands. There are, for example, three different kinds of pairs to differentiate between: middle pairs, top-pairs, and overpairs.

WHAT IS A MIDDLE POCKET PAIR?

You have a middle pair when your 2 cards form a pair, and there is only one card on the board higher than your pair, as long as that card is not an ace.

If, for example, you have two Jacks and there is an eight, a four and a king in the flop, you have a middle pair, since there is only one card higher than your pair, the king.

Middle pair

Your hand:   Flop:
WHAT IS A TOP-PAIR?

You have a top-pair when one of your starting hand cards gives you a pair with the highest card on the board.

If, for example, you have an ace and a jack, you will have top-pair every time the highest card on the board is an ace or a jack.

Top pair

Your hand:   Flop:
WHAT IS AN OVERPAIR?

An overpair is a pocket pair that is higher than all the cards on the board.

If, for example, you have two aces and three lower cards are in the flop, you have an overpair.

Overpair

You have:   Flop:
WHAT IS AN OESD?

When you have four cards in sequential order, for example 4, 5, 6, 7, you have an OESD (open-ended straight draw).

When you have four cards in sequential order, you only need one more card in the sequence on the upper or lower end to have a straight. This is the only type of straight draw you should play. You should never play your hand when you are missing a card in the middle of the sequence, for example 4, 5, 7, 8.

As is often the case in Texas Hold'em, it doesn't matter if you are using both of your starting hand cards and three cards from the board, or if you are only using one of your starting hand cards and four from the board.

OESD

Your hand:   Flop:
WHAT IS A FLUSH DRAW?

You have a flush draw when you have four cards of the same suit  - the four suits being hearts, diamonds, spades, and clubs.

One more card of that suit would give you a flush.

Flush draw

Your hand:   Flop:

How should you play your hand?

If you raised before the flop

Playing your hand after the flop is relatively easy when you raised before the flop. Your goal is to go all-in on the flop if possible when you have one of the hands listed above, as well as with any better hand such as a flush.

You play: middle pairs, top-pairs, overpairs, OESDs, flush draws and any better hand, such as two pair, three-of-a-kind, etc.

How to play your hand:

  • If no one has bet or raised, you bet approx. 2/3 of the pot.
  • If someone has bet or raised before you, you go all-in.
  • If you bet, and someone raises after you, you go all-in.
  • If a bet or raise would cost you more than half your stack, go directly all-in.
  • If one or more opponents only call your bet or raise on the flop, go all-in on the turn.

What if your hand is not playable?

If you don't have a playable hand, you will usually just fold without investing any more money. In the case that you are able to 'check', you would be able to see the turn card for free and possibly improve your hand. In that case, continue playing as if you had hit on the flop.

There are two exceptions to be made on the flop.

Case 1: If the pot is twice as large as your stack at the start of a betting round, go all-in no matter what your opponent does or what kind of hand you have.

Case 2: If you raised before the flop and are facing exactly one opponent on the flop, bet approx. 2/3 of the pot, even if you missed. It doesn't matter what kind of hand you have in this situation, your bet is a bluff. Just keep in mind that you should only do this when facing exactly one opponent and when he has not bet or raised.

If your opponent raises, simply fold your hand. If he calls, you'll have to give up your bluff, unless you hit the turn card. If you do pick up a hand like middle pair or top-pair on the turn, go all-in.

If you didn't raise before the flop

If you didn't raise before the flop, you need to play differently after the flop. This will usually only be the case when you are in the Big Blind and no one raised before the flop.

First of all, you shouldn't play any hand that still needs to improve. This means no chasing OESDs or flush draws.

Secondly, you should not play middle pairs any more, and only play top-pairs when your other starting hand card (also called kicker card) is a jack or higher.

You play: top-pairs (with at least a jack kicker), overpairs, and every better hand like two pair, three-of-a-kind, etc.

How to play your hand:

  • If no one has bet, you bet approx. 2/3 of the pot.
  • If someone has bet, you go all-in.
  • If you bet, and someone raises after you, you go all-in.
  • If a bet or raise would cost you more than half your stack, go all-in.
  • If one or more opponents just call your bet, go directly all-in on the turn.
  • Examples
EXAMPLE 1
Before the flop - NL10 - Blinds: 0.05/0.10 - 10 Players
You are in early position with
  • You raise to $0.40. You have $1.60 remaining.
  • The player in the Big Blind calls.
Flop - Active Players: 2 - Pot: $0.85
  • Your opponent checks.
  • You bet $0.55.

You raised before the flop with an ace and a king and one player called. Then he checked to you on the flop. You didn't hit a pair or better, but your opponent's play is weak. He is also the only opponent left in the hand, so chances are good he will fold if you bet.

Your bet should always be approx. 2/3 of the pot, but this doesn't have to be an exact amount. In this example your bet was $0.55. Betting $0.50 or $0.60 wouldn't have been a mistake either; the important thing is that you bet.

If your opponent calls, you will have to give up your hand, unless you can improve on the turn or river without having to invest any more money.

EXAMPLE 2
Before the flop - NL10 - Blinds: 0.05/0.10 - 10 Players
You are in early position with
  • You raise to $0.40. You have $1.60 remaining.
  • The player in the Big Blind calls.
Flop - Active Players: 2 - Pot: $0.85
  • Your opponent bets $0.20.
  • Your raise and go all-in.

Once again you raised with an ace and a king and the player in the Big Blind called. This time he bets on the flop, but you have a strong hand, namely top-pair.

The strategy says to go all-in when an opponent bets before you on the flop and you have a playable hand.

EXAMPLE 3
Before the flop - NL10 - Blinds: 0.05/0.10 - 10 Players
You are in early position with
  • You raise to $0.40. You have $1.50 remaining.
  • A player in middle position calls.
  • The player in the Big Blind calls.
Flop - Active Players: 3 - Pot: $1.25
  • The player in the Big Blind checks.
  • You check.
  • The player in middle position checks.
Turn - Active Players: 3 - Pot: $1.25
  • The player in the Big Blind bets $0.40
  • You go all-in.

The same cards in a similar situation. You raised with an ace and a king before the flop. This time you missed the flop and are facing two opponents. There is no point in bluffing, so you check and hope you can see the turn card for free.

Your opponents let you see the turn card for free and you hit top-pair. This is your sign to get all your money in.

EXAMPLE 4
Before the flop - NL10 - Blinds: 0.05/0.10 - 10 Players
You are in the Big Blind
  • Two players in middle position call.
  • You check.
Flop - Active Players: 3 - Pot: $0.35
  • You check.
  • One opponent bets, the other folds.
  • You also fold your hand.

This is a situation in which a lot of players make mistakes. You are the Big Blind and since no-one raised before the flop, you were able to see the flop for free.

You hit top-pair, so far so good. But the strategy says you should only play your top-pair when your kicker card is a jack or better. Your kicker card is a 7, which unfortunately, is not enough. You should treat your hand as if you had nothing.

You check and fold to any bet. It shouldn't be that hard to do, either.

EXAMPLE 5
Before the flop - NL10 - Blinds: 0.05/0.10 - 10 Players
You are in late position with
  • You raise to $0.40. You have $1.40 remaining.
  • Both players in the blinds call.
Flop - Active Players: 3 - Pot: $1.20
  • Both players in the blinds check.
  • You go all-in.

In this example you have a middle pair. You raised before the flop with pocket queens, but there is a higher card, or overcard, on the flop, namely the king. The problem now is that any top-pair has you beat.

Still, you can play your hand as long as the high card on the board is not an ace.

In this example you don't just bet, you go all-in. Remember the rule: If a bet or raise would cost you more than half your stack, go all-in.

Normally, your bet would be approx. 2/3 of the pot. That would be $0.80 in this example. You only have $1.40 left in your stack (half of which is $0.70), so an $0.80 bet would clearly cost you more than half of what you have, which is why you go all-in.

Summary

So far, you have learned ...

  • If you raised before the flop, you continue to play middle pairs, top-pairs, overpairs, OESDs, flush draws and all better hands.
  • If you did not raise before the flop, you continue to play top-pairs (when your kicker is a jack or better), overpairs and all better hands. You do not play OESDs or flush draws.
  • A middle pair is worthless when there is an ace on the board.
  • You should only bluff when you raised before the flop and there is only one opponent left in the hand, on the flop.

And that's the Short Stack Strategy, probably the shortest and most effective Hold'em strategy ever developed. The important thing is that you always follow the strategy rules. The mathematical nature of the strategy does not allow for deviations, no matter how good your reasons to do so may be.

Good luck on the tables and don't forget to do download the printable version of the strategy.

Overview of the Short Stack Strategy incl. the Starting Hands Chart

 

Comments (60)

#1 steveblakesley, 02 Mar 09 12:29

Thank you , great stuff , however if i have a raise and then a call in front of me , would this be two raises , and i fold , or do i just count it as one raise in front of me ? ,secondly, if the blinds have just gone though me and i have 25bb do i still leave the table even though i dont have to post for another 7 hands?

#2 dextart, 02 Mar 09 21:37

Thanks, I think the new layout is very nice! However, after the change, I could not help to notice that some fundamentals seem to have changed as well... E.g. if I remember correctly, in the previous version, I would be required to re-raise a single raise before my turn by 3 + 1 times, and only go all-in if that is higher than half of my stack, no? Which can be the case when someone does a 2-bet or 3-bet preflop... Thanks!

#3 mbml, 04 Mar 09 03:24

@ steveblakesley<br /> 1) treat the raise + one cold call as a single raise<br /> 2) don't leave the table until it is your turn to pay the blinds again

#4 PeterRadj, 04 Mar 09 10:32

I see a difference here in this link<br /> http://resources.pokerstrategy.com/Strategy/en/ps_nl_basic_handout_V3_en.pdf<br /> <br /> says that if you have AK and someone raises before you ....you muck your hand ...<br /> but on this page says that you go all in with AK if someone raises before you<br /> <br /> How do you play AK after all??..it happened to me a lot of times to just go all in before the flop and not catch an ace or a king anyway there is a diference between that link and what says on this page

#5 xponentx, 10 Mar 09 09:01

I'm fairly certain you would push to a single raise with AK, as outlined in this article. At least that's the way the strategy used to always be beofre the revamp.

#6 Solovirs, 20 Mar 09 10:08

I agree

#7 DevilChess, 21 Mar 09 20:12

<br /> <br /> #1 DevilChess, 21 Mar 09 03:20<br /> I played exactly as described here, no deviation from the text, for 3 hours at .05/.10 tables, played around 923 hands and lost 6.2 dollars.<br /> <br /> That´s a 62 BB´s. If this style really is profitable, should not it tend to win with a high number of samples (923 hands, 102 blind rounds).<br /> <br /> #2 DevilChess, 21 Mar 09 03:22<br /> By the way, I win alot more playing my style, which is more loose and aggresive. Very different from what it says here.<br /> <br /> #3 DevilChess, 21 Mar 09 03:24<br /> Make that... 8.2 dollars, just lost with a two pair (an official all-in hand, according to the text, got rivered)<br /> <br /> #4 DevilChess, 21 Mar 09 03:28<br /> Sammy Farha said once: "When you go all-in you take all the skill out of poker."<br /> <br /> With this type of play you always go all in. Honestly, I do not reccomend this style to anyone, it isn´t profitable, if I had to play a person with this style, I´d LOVE to be to his right and always steal his blind with 27o (only about 4/177 chances that he will defend his blind) he´d be forced to fold TT, AQ, AJ lol... cuz the rules says so.<br /> <br /> #5 DevilChess, 21 Mar 09 03:28<br /> .<br /> <br /> #6 DevilChess, 21 Mar 09 03:50<br /> Flaws:<br /> #1 The style is WAY TOO PREDICTABLE.<br /> #2 You cannot take advantage of mid and low pairs in late positions when<br /> the pot is called down and players are not aggresive.<br /> #3 You cannot take advantage of suited connectors under the same circumstance as point #2<br /> #4 Does not consider the style of play of the opponent, who might be stealing 100% of the times at SB, BTN or CO (you would have to fold AQ to his steal raise with mediocre cards)<br /> #5 Can´t play a bluff i.e. Bluff-Bet the Flop 2/3 Pot to a Board with 2 Spades against 1 opponent, check the turn, get a third spade on the river, the opponent checks in fear (and you know he is a tight player) and according to this rules, you can´t bet, you must check.<br /> #6 Basically ignores COMPLETELY the style of play of an opponent.<br /> <br /> One can obviously see this style is non-sense.

#8 DevilChess, 21 Mar 09 20:12

.

#9 DevilChess, 21 Mar 09 20:12

bump

#10 kingdippy2008, 22 Mar 09 14:44

If it isnt profitable then why do i know people who are playing it on $25/$50? They have worked there way up from the same limits.<br /> This isnt meant to be a very skillful strategy, its for beginners. 923 hands is nothing by the way and so it 62 big blinds. Thats like 3 stack which is nothing, espicially over 923 hands. And suited connecters arent played because they arent profitable using this strategy. Really what can you flop with them? Mainly draws and weak pairs. The chance of flopping a flush is 3% btw. So please just remember, this is BASIC!

#11 DevilChess, 23 Mar 09 17:53

kingdippy, from late position you do not necessarily need to hit your hand, you can always semi bluff. And 65 suited can hit flush, straight, and crazy full houses, and as I said... you could hit nothing, and if your opponents hit nothing aswell, you can win, just by having the best position, as I remarked. LATE position.<br /> <br /> I know suited connectors in late position don´t work with that strategy.... THAT´S MY WHOLE POINT.

#12 DevilChess, 23 Mar 09 17:53

bump.

#13 DevilChess, 23 Mar 09 17:55

Oh, and about those 923 hands... well... I can play about 400 hands using my own strategy and win about that which I lost. 62 big blinds. Honestly, I really repent from using this strategy at all. <br /> <br /> So, personally, I do not reccomend it. And readers have the right to know that this strategy is not really bullet proof. You can lose, quite alot.

#14 DevilChess, 23 Mar 09 18:19

In fact I can win more than 62 big blinds. After I lost using this strategy, I went on with my style, to LOWER limits. .02/.05 entering with 5 bucks, 100 bb´s. And won 400 BB´s In 400 hands. I know this because my dbase went from ~900 hands to 1200~ hands.

#15 kingdippy2008, 23 Mar 09 22:15

Yes Devil this strategy is not "bulletproof" but it provides a good way for players to clear there bonus and make a profit in the process. Of course you can go broke with it, but over the course of at least 20k hands, it will be a winning strategy. Espicially on NL10 (0.05/0.10) And still, 62bb is nothing :p. But SSS is not for everyone, personally i would rather play BSS (100bb buyin) and i do. From what it sounds, you are a good player already Devil... your talking about Databases which is always a good sign. I think if you get to bronze or get the capital you would definately benefit from the BSS articles and weekly coachings.<br /> <br /> So, i wish you good luck. Btw winning on 0.02/0.05 isnt hard :D

#16 antnix, 24 Mar 09 00:00

Wow that was interesting.<br /> We have Two very seasoned players here, both with their own take on the system. I have been playing for 3 yrs and have found this system to be a refresher. I have got into bad habits and maybe not been playing my position as well as I should have. I re-read the articles and am starting to pick up again. <br /> Like the man says It is for beginners and that is enough for them to start with.<br /> <br /> Good luck to all the newbies that are starting the game and doing the quiz. just hoping to be half as good as DevilChess and Kingdippy.

#17 DevilChess, 24 Mar 09 15:52

I am astonished at everyone´s reaction. None went angry. Thumbs up for this site´s community.

#18 Martynsp, 24 Mar 09 19:34

I found something peculiar. If I raised with 77 in late position, for instance, and 3 diamonds pop up on the flop. One of my sevens is diamons too, so, according to this strategy, I should try to go all in. The similar situation is with other sets basicaly made by board. If the board pairs and there is a deuce on it. I limped in with BB, have 23o, but the flop means I have 2 pair which is better than top pair jack kicker, so that means I should try to go all in too. Very same situation with trips (all three on the board), 4 of a kind (all four on the board and my kicker is deuce). I'm pretty sure that's what the rules say, so should I follow them in this case?

#19 DevilChess, 25 Mar 09 01:48

To Martynsp:<br /> I would fold/check a flush draw with 77 on my hand, maybe 1-barrel semi-bluff 50% of the pot, if against 1 not-too-loose player or 2 very tight players showing weakness (and little or no history of them doing check-raise) and me having a better position and a average table image (people don't think I'm a maniac bettor).<br /> <br /> Analyze the situation, and ask yourself "what circumstances (cards & players) need to happen for my move to be profitable? Are ALL of those circumstances present in this situation I am in?"<br /> <br /> A profitable move is one that gives a high enough percentage of winning to compensate your pot odds.<br /> <br /> Example of a a non profitable move:<br /> You and Opponent have 100 BB's.<br /> <br /> You 4BB raised preflop with AA.<br /> You get CALLED by a tight player known to call raises with mid-pairs.<br /> Flop comes: 2 5 7 rainbow<br /> <br /> You go all-in for 96 BB's with your AA.<br /> <br /> BAD MOVE!<br /> <br /> You won't profit from such moves, why? You will only get called when you're losing (12%). The rest of the times you will only win the pot.<br /> Analyzing 100 hands played like this:<br /> So you'll lose 96 BB's 12 times. 12x96 = -1152 BB's<br /> And win 9.5 BB's 88 times. 88x9.5= + 836 BB's<br /> (9.5 BB's if SB/BB fold) Overall you lose: - 316 BB's in 100 hands.<br /> This represents: -15% of your bet.<br /> <br /> Example of a profitable move:<br /> In the last hand, playing like the tight opponent. If you know a player always goes all-in with overpair if the flop comes low, and you got a pocket pair, chances are you will win 107 BB's 12% of the time, and lose 4 BB's 88% of the time.<br /> <br /> So you win 107BB'sx12 =+1284 BB's<br /> you lose 4BB'sx88 =- 352 BB's<br /> Overall: + 932 BB's, 57% of your bet!<br /> <br /> Point is. Analyze the situation and choose a profitable move, sometimes NO move (like check) is the most profitable move.

#20 Martynsp, 25 Mar 09 17:12

Thanks.<br /> Your profitable example agrees with the strategy, while my unprofitable example also agrees with it. What I'm saying is the set of rules isn't completely defined. You shouldn't only pay attention at the combination you have, but also you should note, how many cards of the combination is in your hand and what possible hands can others have. The lack of this information gives me some confusion at the table.<br /> <br /> Let's say I hold AK, both diamonds and 4 clubs pops out (one of them is, let's say, a king) on the flop and on the turn. Should I still keep raising if I have too opponents remaining? What if there is only one? What about other similar situations, when you bet before the flop, but the board makes your hand risky? What if the main combination is already on board and my hand has a bad kicker? Should I remain the agressor, because in most of the cases this won't happen and I'll win? I can also still win if noone happens to have the missing card, so do I still have to raise? Or do I fold? When exactly, then? The strategy doesn't cover that.

#21 DevilChess, 25 Mar 09 18:25

Of course you check/fold AdKd if flop is 4 clubs, AND opponents demonstrate strength or likelyhood to have been waiting for a 4th club.<br /> <br /> You just said it yourself, its unprofitable:<br /> "Your profitable example agrees with the strategy, while my unprofitable example also agrees with it." <br /> <br /> If its unprofitable, dont do it. Poker isn´t about following rules NOR about winning a hand, its about getting a good Rate on Your Investment, in other words, PROFIT.<br /> <br /> If you know a move is UNPROFITABLE, dont do it. :)

#22 DevilChess, 25 Mar 09 18:28

Nothing you will ever read about poker will be a DEFINITIVE 100% LAW. There will always be exceptions and special cases where your criteria will come in play.

#23 kingdippy2008, 27 Mar 09 23:46

Ha thanks antnix!!! Im not that good really. Just know a lot about SSS and strategy and odds and outs and just poker in General. Yet to put it into reasonable practice. <br /> With the 77 Flushdraw hand your right, according to strategy you should play aggresive. With one opponent its more likely they dont have a diamond and betting flop would be right. If they call then its maybe questionable but stick to the strategy i suppose.<br /> With the 2 pair thing, technically its not a two pair. If you look in the handout its says "only appears to be 2 pair" and you should just make your c-bet and then check/fold you hand if it is an underpair.<br /> Then in your last post you have bought up a very intersting circumstance that probably could only happen 1 in 1000 times (maybe i dunno) I think in these situations you could use your initative :P<br /> <br /> Anyway good luck to all beginner who use this strategy!! Just have a little faith and it works!!<br /> <br />

#24 wobbletones, 02 Apr 09 15:08

Well i have been playing casual poker fopr about 2 years now and thought of trtying to make some money playing poker so i have following the stratergy for about 2 months to try get some formal knowledge on the game, and after i got my bonus i was still doing things my way but worked my way down to just about nothing, then said no screw this let me actually follow the statergy properly, i do deviate slightly depending on what the situation requires, but have found useing the tratergy cuts out a lot of the mistakes i had been making and have turned it around and have been making some good progress.....so thanks for the site it has really been helpfull

#25 drawback, 19 Apr 09 22:32

I play SSS @ 0.05/0.10 $ limits at the moment. And i get 10-20$/hour.<br /> The only difference is that i don't "go South" when i'm up to 2.5 bb.<br /> I usually keep playing with 4 or 5 $. And then i use Starting Hands from SSS. It's easy money, especially when you start multi-tabling.<br /> I'll try to get to NL25 in less than a month. I don't think it will be hard.<br /> I can say only one thing: if you manage to lose with this strategy, then you are doing something wrong (ignoring ALL the rules)<br />

#26 nightshade438, 12 May 09 02:09

I gotta admit it is good learning what starting hands are most profitable and learning how position affects how to bet. But I almost never see a flop using this strategy, and banking when you win seems really underhanded to me. Isn't that practice frowned upon by almost everyone?

#27 z0rgan, 23 May 09 00:19

nic3 :)

#28 matthidr, 30 May 09 11:11

very good

#29 Ratinha, 10 Jun 09 04:51

I've been reading and playng since Jan, and tried the SSS in the last couple of weeks. I can trace my losses to deviatons - like calling a raise with 88 or calling an all-in reraise on the flop with top pair K kicker (lost to A kicker)... or not leaving the table - I quickly got from $2 to $5 to $12 before the BB came, then stayed and lost with AK against TJ and TT agains QJ - had I followed the rule and left, I'd have lost $2 or so in each of these hands, still a profit of $6 or so.<br /> <br /> Anyway, I found the most profitable beginner strategy for me to be the $1 sngs. At Party poker I could get to the $ around 60% of the time or more.

#30 Ratinha, 10 Jun 09 04:57

Devilchess, <br /> <br /> I guess the SSS is a survival strategy, devised to minimize errors not to maximize profits. It means your BR rolls more before it vanishes, and even if it eventually vanishes it generates the maximum rake for a begginer... of course it is best for the site that we win constantly, but it's unfeasible. Porbably the SSS is the best approach to extract the most rake out of 1000 beginners - and the site is careful to state that if you survive it, you could do better with (almost any) other strategy. So no grudges.

#31 justgeo, 11 Jun 09 14:06

when i first started playing poker [about 2 yrs ago] i knew nothing about strategy, draws, made hands etc etc. i thought, you get cards, you play em or fold em, simple as that.<br /> now, 2 yrs on, having read more, watched more videos etc etc, i have 6 accounts on the go, all in profit!! and a seventh waiting to be hit with the $50 from here. now, ok, some of that is just down to pure luck, hitting draws that really i should not make. i love strategy, i love reading about poker and playing it. i never came across SSS and will give it a try. but, i can see its pitfalls even before i start. i tend to agree a lot with what devilchess has been saying.<br /> i shall use this strategy for a few days and see how it goes and then get back to you all with some feedback.<br /> until then, keep winning folks, unless you happen to be on the same table as me, then you can lose the lot, lol

#32 cashdance, 11 Jun 09 14:37

10x for all

#33 YohanN7, 16 Jun 09 18:45

The article finishes off with "... The important thing is to stick to the rules. The mathematical nature of this strategy doesn't allow for variation, even if you think you have good reason to do so."<br /> <br /> Well, mathematics not only allows for deviations from the strategy. Mathematics DICTATES deviations from the strategy as presented. I'm not going to bore you with a buch of examples. There are a few in the posts above.<br /> <br /> I don't object to the strategy as such for a total beginner. I would however like to see the more bombastic statements about how infallible the strategy is changed to something more humble. <br /> <br /> The strategy was probably successful five years ago. The players are much better now. The very second you sit down at a table with the minimum buy-in they'll know what you are doing or they'll very soon find out.<br /> <br /> On the mathematics: One gets the impression from the text that the strategy is unbeatable (Unbeatable in the game theory sense; this is not the same thing as being optimal). As far as I know nothing in that direction has been proven when it comes to hold'em except for heads up play when the small stack is less than 6-7 blinds.<br /> <br /> /Yohan

#34 Smileyphil, 17 Jun 09 17:19

I believe the strategy is strong in the manner that is is fairly unexploitable. No-one can take advantage of a player who waits for good cards and then puts his money in. If you call him you are at a disadvantage (he has good cards) and if you fold you are at a disadvantage (he steals your blinds/bets). The "Skill" lies in deciding which situations are profitable postflop and adjusting the opening ranges to suite different opponents.<br /> <br /> Another point about the strategy is that it is very good for bonus whoring (can play lots of tables easily) while making a small profit.<br /> <br /> I would just like to add that I think the example with QT in the "Raise with draw" section should be changed because the preflop strategy dictates that we fold QT in all positions.

#35 benguela, 26 Jun 09 06:51

There are too many people playing this strategy and there are fewer tables with only 2 short stacks. The number of people buying in for 20xbb is increasing possibly because of this site.<br /> <br />

#36 Romanas18, 12 Aug 09 15:10

its interesting to read, thanks :)

#37 ImAnAcehole9, 19 Oct 09 06:23

I think pokerstrategy sets a good foundation to a persons game that will require your own spin once you have the knowledge.<br /> <br /> I can remember when I first started playing NL Holdem I had great results because with my limited experience came patience and playing strong hands only. I was able to "fool" a lot of my peers who believed I was a great player purely from the results of tourneys etc.<br /> <br /> As I got more experience, I experimented with drawing hands 56s 89s etc and found holes everywhere in my game....not leaks Titanic sinking gashes. The poker paranoia had set in and before I knew it my game was/is pretty much laughable.<br /> <br /> I believe Pokerstradegy will put me back on track and start with a fundamental foundation to my game. I will then use the knowledge to develop my own game. If everybody played the pokerstradegy way there would be a lot of folding and split pots and tourney winners would be determined from forced all ins, SSS and BSS used on every table against the same playing styles. From there the game evolves once again. I know years from now I don't want to play like millions or even hundreds of thousands of people play like (dare I say it a mainstream predictable player)I want to and will have my own style.

#38 kenshin79, 22 Oct 09 10:37

Ty.I have tried it. It proves useful

#39 CommeDesGarcons, 19 Nov 09 15:06

I think something we have to rmbr is that this is on microstakes where an extremely small # of villains actually care about what they you are doing. Everyone is pretty much just focused on their own cards, so they aren't really going to be analyzing what your range is etc. I think this strategy is quite viable on NL 10, if not anything else.

#40 Teyiebuns, 16 Jan 10 13:11

I'm afraid I agree with devilchess, I have played 12,000 hands and had a gradual and consistant problem of not being called on raises and re-raises (people use HUDs even on NL10 and know I have a top hand). They explot you with minimum raise, knowing you will fold because you're acting like a robot without making decisions. I understand making a strategy for beginners but saying it's mathematically proven to win in the long term doesn't seem accurate to me. If you only win the blinds and don't get called (likely) - you're only getting 20% of your blinds back, added to RakeBack = loss.<br /> <br />

#41 mariinek, 22 Jan 10 06:03

I have i question. Is there any reason not to rebuy right after loosing something from my stack?

#42 pokeraddict316, 29 Jan 10 19:15

I'm abit confused about the re-steal on this chart... is that only if someone late raises our blinds then we shove with these hands or from button only or mid raises etc??<br /> <br /> -also i feel there are some instances where it is ok to call like mid/late pos with low/mid pairs if you think you will see the flop without it being raised.<br /> <br /> oh yea and it says if opponent resteals go all in with<br /> 99-aa-aj-ak... is this explained in more detail. i must be missing it??.. if it's saying like if you raise late with these hands and someone after you like in blind or button if your cutoff reraises you should shove... but i don't nececarrilly think that is a proper move against the standard tag with the bottom part of this range specially if they know or are familiar with ss system. any comments or help??

#43 DuckMySuck, 16 Feb 10 11:01

Teyiebuns: thats why I play on Cake (you cannot use any software).. I made from 50 starting capital 400$.. about ~50k hands played.

#44 predictible, 17 Feb 10 07:34

I m really surprised to see people spending their money following strictly ONE system !! Stop beiing predictible. Tracing and tagging one system players (and fishes ) mostly in bwin, is the reason i m the only person i know (no professional) who is winning in total. Excuse my english(i am greek) but i had to write this comment. I think that players who choose one system (not their own) will never recover their losses.....Play smart ! Good luck to all

#45 MtzkC, 28 Feb 10 13:57

IMO this strategy is for high stakes play money, to get used to the short stack style. After one gets used to it, he may form his own style of short stack play, also on high stakes play money. After that, he may go to play at vaery low stakes real money games. Honestly, it is so predictable, one realy can't show a useful profit about it.

#46 MtzkC, 28 Feb 10 14:13

One more thing. If players catch upon this strategy, they may easealy counteract a truly beginer player by simply checking the strenght of his hand and trying to kick him out with a minrise. And if the beginner player still stays in the game, he will suerly have a monster starting hand which he reveals for cheap. So players will have an easy fold with weak hands and a equal advantage with monster hands.

#47 Trbst, 03 Mar 10 14:42

Hey,<br /> <br /> What if your hand is not playable, and you're vs. one opponent and miss the flop. Considering he has position on you, would you C-bet ? It seems to me like everybody keeps calling all the time so what do u do ?

#48 larvik74, 10 Aug 10 22:17

A very god strategi who will bring the money in so long you play this strategi right from pre-flop to turn. Now i have tryed this strategi in couples days and it work in micro tables.

#49 majk24, 02 Nov 10 04:00

this is all one big bullshit.....u cant win with this strategy...i am trying now for 10000 hands and i am sucking big time.....and i am following this SSS chart....most of the time i got beat by some stupid idiot who payed me...i dont know ...i guess,just for joke and often got 2 pairs or set or straight or flush....i have never seen so much flushes and straights in this game like on PS...every second,third hand.. fishes....its full of it.....bottom line...maybe it was working but it aint working anymore......

#50 batosz, 06 Jan 11 22:58

The article says: "In case your hand is not playable... If the pot is twice as large as your stack at the start of a betting round, go all-in no matter what your opponent does or what kind of hand you have." Why should I do this? I understand that if I have only one opponent I can play a good bluff but if I have several opponents I obviously can't bluff all of them. Any ideas?

#51 badgercd, 22 Sep 11 07:12

@ the critics siting predictability as a negative: If you follow the strategy properly you wont be at a table long enough to be predictable (you'll either lose all-in, or win all-in taking you above the limit to leave the table), so don't worry about that. It is only a problem if you are running into the same opposition regularly, which wont happen too often in the lower limits due to the sheer volume of people.

#52 Huckebein, 26 Sep 11 15:35

@47: If you are convinced that your bluff (in this case the cbet) wont work, you shouldnt bluff :) It is better to give up the hand.<br /> <br /> @50: The point is that you decided about how to play the hand already preflop. If you put almost all of your stack in preflop, you shouldnt fold anymore. There is always the chance that your opponent will fold. Even if you have 0% to win, your opponent only needs to fold 25% of the time to make the bluff profitable.

#53 stuart2617, 23 May 12 17:47

love this info thanks guys much ...

#54 TeddyBjornen, 28 May 12 18:47

Is it possible to play sss at pokerstars, cause they have minmum buy in 40BB? does it still work with minimum buy in 40BB?

#55 machTec, 17 Jun 12 23:13

What I would like to know is what is the passing percentage for the quiz. And why won't they tell us? Also by not telling us where we went wrong it does not help us to become better players. I understand that because they give you 5 chances to win that it would make it much easier to complete after a few tries and reviewing. Maybe they could give us our stats after all the tries were either used up or we passed. For those of you out there that have passed the quiz do they give you any feedback on the passing grade? For all I know it could be 100% making the few tricky questions that I couldn't get an exact answer too from reading the articles and "read the answer" pages a coin flip situation that I would have to get lucky in order to get right.

#56 Itamarlazar, 03 Oct 12 08:50

I love you guys. Really. I improved my game online & live.<br /> <br /> Here's a hand I need help with to learn from. It is my hand and I played SSS.<br /> <br /> *********** # 3 **************<br /> PokerStars Hand #87080771829: Hold'em No Limit ($0.02/$0.05 USD)<br /> Table 9 Seat<br /> M1: Hero ($2.06 in chips)<br /> M3: M3 ($3.66 in chips)<br /> SB: SB ($2.24 in chips)<br /> <br /> Dealt to hero [Ah Qh]<br /> hero: raises $0.15 to $0.20<br /> M3: calls $0.20<br /> SB: calls $0.18<br /> <br /> *** FLOP *** [Jc 7d 9h]<br /> SB: checks<br /> hero: checks<br /> M3: checks<br /> *** TURN *** [Jc 7d 9h] [5s]<br /> SB: checks<br /> hero: checks<br /> M3: checks<br /> *** RIVER *** [Jc 7d 9h 5s] [As]<br /> SB: checks<br /> hero: bets $0.35<br /> M3: raises $0.70 to $1.05<br /> SB: folds<br /> hero: raises $0.81 to $1.86 and is all-in<br /> M3: calls $0.81<br /> *** SHOW DOWN ***<br /> hero: shows [Ah Qh] (a pair of Aces)<br /> M3: shows [Ad Kc] (a pair of Aces - King kicker)<br /> M3 collected $4.19 from pot<br /> <br /> What should i have done (I believe I did good)?

#57 nyan123, 31 Dec 12 03:38

@Itamarlazar It depends on the player's stats. If he's a LAG, a call would be much better, since the raise on the river doesn't accomplish much (if he's bluffing, calling allows you to win anyways) although it's really unlikely that he's bluffing). If he's a bad tight player (most players at low limits), you should definitely fold. If he's a complete donk, I might have considered raising (although calling is probably still a lot better).

#58 nyan123, 31 Dec 12 03:40

Last comment I meant bad loose player lol :) But against TAGs and NITs it's the same thing.<br /> <br /> Anyways I have a question about this strategy. Why should you raise with middle pair? You probably won't get him off of top pair, and he probably won't call with second best pair (unless he's a donk).

#59 Strongwill, 31 Jul 16 13:02

Is there a 6max version?

#60 GamBrit, 07 Aug 16 18:28

When I Get My Starting Capital Definitely Gonna Be Using The Short Stack Strategy, Thanks