i would try it when i have starting cards slightly better than his steal range.
if his steal range was 40 i would do it with A2o, K6o, Q9o, J10o etc.
anyway just a suggestion worth a try imho 
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i just had alook at xarry2 s training post and this backs up what im saying
quote....
3,00/6,00 No-Limit Hold'em (6 handed)
Hand recorder used for this poker hand: Texas Grabem 1.9 by www.pokerstrategy.com.
Preflop: Hero is BB with 5 , 4
4 folds, BU raises to $12,00, Hero calls $6,00.
Flop: ($24,00) 6 , J , 9 (2 players)
BU checks, Hero checks.
Turn: ($24,00) J (2 players)
BU checks, Hero checks.
River: ($24,00) 3 (2 players)
BU checks, Hero bets $15,80, BU folds.
Final Pot: $39,80
When you face a minsteal in the BB you should not only 3bet or fold. Since you get extremely good pot odds and have position to the raises you should often think of just calling. Of course without experience in those spots its problematic to call with 54s. But against players who steal more than 30% in the SB you just have to throw in calls with hands like QJ or 44. If you sometimes balance those rather weak hands in your calling range with AK or AA and other strong hands your opponent will have a hard time putting you on a correct range if you defend passively.
This hand is interesting so far, that we can think much about the lines from villain and me - and conclude to hands which would suit to the played line.
After SB (who is a 14/11 TAG btw) checks the flop its most likely he doesn't have flushdraw. Most of the time he will play bet call with his onecard flushdraws. If he is on a higher level of thinking he could throw in a checkraise with A/K/Q hi flushdraws as well as with a made strong flush. But overall the check on the onesuit board mostly means that he gives up his hand because he is too afraid to cbet. Consequently the line I chose is wrong. I should simply bet the flop in order to use the foldequity. checking behind would make more sense if we assume a checkraise often or have a hand which could develop on further streets. with our hand we are 100% dead on this board however. Thus checking behind will mostly lead to a bet from villain on the turn and we have to fold. And even if we wanted to bluff then we couldn't represent much. If we had a J or a 9 we would definetely bet the flop in order to protect. thats why betting the turn would only make sense against a non-thinking opponent. a good player could rebluff us since we don't have the J on 99% of the time after the line checkbehind flop, bet turn. since I gave villain enough credit to think this far I checked behind again. whats interesting now is that he doesn't bet the river. why? at this river I'd like to state villain never has a good flush. he has to bet at least with a T-hi flushdraw+ on the turn. just checking such a good draw twice would be very uncommon. the remaining options are now: he plans to c/c with a pretty weak flush in order to catch some bluffs or he is on a trash hand. with everything else than a flush its very hard to call on the river. and because the flushs which could play c/c on the river are not many (8,7,5,4,(2) hi) the biggest part of his range must be trash. what's also nice for a bluff for us: we don't have to bet big, what we are representing is exactly a weak flush like the listed 8,7,5 hi flushs. if we had them we want worse hands to call us and thus we don't want to bet too much. therfore the betsize should be 50-60% potsize. as you see I could still bet less than as played.
interesting. i dont play with hud though so its hard to pick a range which i know i will be ahead with but of course i often have a pretty good idea of how often villain is stealing.
i will switch to this then.
im surprised u dont use a hood considering the stakes you play
why not use one as it is a significant advantage, imho?
i play on cake so its not allowed.
it doenst sound like he would c/r anytime he hits the flop either.
i am not sure about this approach and i think the opponent will often be expecting this. and it just seems like we are risking a lot to win a little.
also in the text he seems to be describing defending against a sb which is entirely different.
edit: it seems villain is called bu in the hh even though he is SB.
u are defending your blind with a marginal hand but your marginal hand is stronger than his so u have an initial advantage.
u have to pay 1 bb to make this play and only continue when u hit and after u have lured him into putting more cash into the pot(he is abusing his position but in reality hes making a mistake the majority of the time).
this is marginal play and should only be done when conditions are good for it(agressive villan steals light). it is another string to your bow and makes your play more complex and difficult to read as u can add some monsters and extract value in different ways for different opponents. it just might add to your overall game
I'm done working on my new preflop range. It seems a little crazy but I am open minded so I am definitely going to try it. Here goes nothing...
UTG1: AQ+, TT+ (normal anyways)
UTG2: AQ+, 88+, AJs (adding hands just makes sense one position later anyways)
MP1: AJo+, A9s+, KTs+, QJs, 77+ (WHAT THE HELL!?!)
MP2: ATo+, A9s+, KTs+, QJs, JTs, KQo (Okay this guy is !@#$ moron)
MP3: ATo+, A8s+, KJo+, K9s+, QTs+, JTs, T9s, 98s, 33+
CO: ATo+, A8s+, KJo+, K9s+, QJo, QTs+, J9s, T9s, 98s, 87s, 22+
BU: A7o+, A2s+, KTo+, K5s+, QTo+, Q7s+, JTo, J8s+, T9o, T8s+, 98s, 87s, 76s
SB: PUSH OR FOLD A2+, K9o+, K3s+, Q9o+, Q5s+, J9o+, J7s+, T9o, T6s+, 98o, 96s+, 86s+, 75s+, 65s, 54s
These ranges are based on a simplified version of poker where all the opponents will only reraise the optimal range, and hero goes broke with about the top third of whatever hero raises with. If you are brave enough to try these ridiculous-looking ranges definitely never raise more than about 3bb, and probably raising a little bit less each time is good. 2.75bb should get the same fold equity as 3bb. Beginners read: SHOULD NOT TRY this range. Tough decisionsare a guarantee if you use this range. Otherwise give it a try, and let me know what you think. I have been using it for the past 2 days on NL200 and I am up about 8 buyins (mind you I was RIDICULOUSLY lucky at times).
Best of luck, and I hope NOT to see any of you at my table
Originally posted by noclaninator
I'm done working on my new preflop range. It seems a little crazy but I am open minded so I am definitely going to try it. Here goes nothing...UTG1: AQ+, TT+ (normal anyways)
UTG2: AQ+, 88+, AJs (adding hands just makes sense one position later anyways)
MP1: AJo+, A9s+, KTs+, QJs, 77+ (WHAT THE HELL!?!)
MP2: ATo+, A9s+, KTs+, QJs, JTs, KQo (Okay this guy is !@#$ moron)
MP3: ATo+, A8s+, KJo+, K9s+, QTs+, JTs, T9s, 98s, 33+
CO: ATo+, A8s+, KJo+, K9s+, QJo, QTs+, J9s, T9s, 98s, 87s, 22+
BU: A7o+, A2s+, KTo+, K5s+, QTo+, Q7s+, JTo, J8s+, T9o, T8s+, 98s, 87s, 76s
SB: PUSH OR FOLD A2+, K9o+, K3s+, Q9o+, Q5s+, J9o+, J7s+, T9o, T6s+, 98o, 96s+, 86s+, 75s+, 65s, 54sThese ranges are based on a simplified version of poker where all the opponents will only reraise the optimal range, and hero goes broke with about the top third of whatever hero raises with. If you are brave enough to try these ridiculous-looking ranges definitely never raise more than about 3bb, and probably raising a little bit less each time is good. 2.75bb should get the same fold equity as 3bb. Beginners read: SHOULD NOT TRY this range. Tough decisionsare a guarantee if you use this range. Otherwise give it a try, and let me know what you think. I have been using it for the past 2 days on NL200 and I am up about 8 buyins (mind you I was RIDICULOUSLY lucky at times).
Best of luck, and I hope NOT to see any of you at my table
lol nice ranges, i like your balls to play this lose. but they are not profitable to play with a small stack tbh, too many hands there are dominted hard and u have no implied odds.
I never though id see the day that id call another shortie too lose when i have a vpip of 15.6 myself lol but granted we all have our unique slant on the game and tbh i like yours lol.
i think u are better off playing the tight sss range but losening up in late position against the donks(raise them hard when your ahead), limping pocket pairs and suited broadways, completing the sb with a wide range and calling min raises from the bb and fold all but AK, 77+ against tags and shorties. this will keep yu busy enuf ♦
im off to find your tables now
i would love to see your all time graph
I am using elephant. How do i post a graph? (and wow are you going to like the graph because it is super swingy but its +$600 over 56k hands so far).
It starts on Aug. 6 on NL50 after i decided to put $400 on full tilt again. Slightly less than breakeven over about 6k hands, then a good $150 spike downwards over a few hundred hands (15 buyins down over a few hundred hands? As i said it is a crazy graph) Then my upswing begins over the next 15k hands and before i know it i am rolled for NL100. Unfortunately that fails miserably and i lose $400 over 6k hands and move back down. But another upswing and i move to NL100 again, then before i know it i've made like $800 and i try NL200 and fail once, and another downswing bringing me back down to about a 40bi for NL100. Angry, I cashed out. But since I got ironman status for the month, i spent my medals on two $26 tournament tokens. I made a deal at the end of one for $467 and it was time for some more SSS! Now that is up to just over $1K again. I took my shot at NL200 SSS with just $800 in my account (Actual BRM is meaningless as i can instantly deposit as much as another $1500 instantly anyways). It has been quite a ride, and I have at least 40 or 50 HORRIBLY MISPLAYED hands in my database. I would go so far as to say that I've made as much or more from rakeback than I have actually playing poker. RAKEBACK DAY TOMORROW!
And about the looseness... I just can't help myself. One day I just got sick of having them fold to my raise every time. I refuse to be the nit at the table. I am loose and aggressive at heart. I am a fan of numbers as well. Shall we look at a typical SSS range and see how tight it is?
UTG and UTG + 1: AQ+, TT+(4.65%)
MP1 to MP3: AJ+, 88+, KQs (7.09%)
CO and BU: AT+, 77+, KQ and steals vs tight blinds (9.65% or more)
As you can see if you look at the percentages, these ranges are extremely tight for the most part. UTG is okay, but if I am on the button, I should rightfully be taking about 25% of pots here. Raising a mere 10% does not accomplish this very well. Likewise if I am in MP3 I should be taking about 15% of pots where I am only raising 7%. These ranges are of course excellent at cleaning out any loose idiots at your table. The problem is (especially on NL200+) that people will have reads, stats, and be intelligent. Assume you are MP3 and it is open folded to you. Pokerstrategy says you raise something like AJ+ 88+ KQs(7.09%) in SSS (basic strategy is EVEN TIGHTER at AQ+, 99+). Bad opponents will call their favorite suited craphands against you and you get nice value from them even as a beginner. Suppose you are playing against intelligent opponents however.
You raised tight, so they must be even tighter. Their best play is to reraise you with only AK, JJ+ (3.02%). You can call QQ+, AKs(1.66%) because these hands each have 42.5% which is what you need to call a reraise profitably(I use equilator to figure these out).
You will be reraised about 11.54% of the time if your opponents are playing optimally (1 - (1 - 0.0302)^4) = 11.54%. Each opponent can reraise you with 3.02% of their hands so four opponents left to act means you get reraised 11.54% of the time.
Now, 88.46% of the time you will take the blinds with your raise against good opponents. 11.54% of the time you get reraised. You call 1.66/7.09 or 23.4% of the time. This can of course, vary based on reads, stats etc. but this is a good baseline if your opponent is playing well.
0.8846(1.5bb) - 0.0884(3bb) + 0.027(3.6bb)
From taking Money lost 59% is your eq against reraise range
The blinds To folds 59% of 40bb is 23.6bb
1.327bb - 0.265bb + 0.097bb = 1.159bb per raise with pokerstrategy's range.
Each individual raise is more profitable using pokerstrategy's range. Since you do not get dealt these cards every time, this number must be further multiplied by the percentage you will make this raise.
1.159bb * 0.0709 = 0.0822bb
Good so we make this much on average for each hand we play that is open folded to us in MP3. I should hope that we are making money by raising. But this is pokerstrategy's way. Now let's compare it to my way.
My crazy chart says to raise this ridiculous range of 33+ ATo+ A8s+, KJo+, K9s+, QTs+, JTs, T9s, 98s(15.4%). Against this range of course, many more hands are a profitable reraise so your opponent SHOULD reraise AJs, AQ+, 88+(5.88%) and you call AQs, AK, 99+ (4.22%).
Using this looser range we will get raised more often obviously. 15.8% is about how often.
0.842(1.5bb) - 0.1158(3bb) + 0.0422(1.99bb)
you make 1.99bb on average
with your calling range
1.263bb - 0.3474bb + 0.084bb = 1bb per raise which is a bit less than with pokerstrategy's range.
But we raise way way way more often! More than double the amount.
1bb * 0.154 = 0.154bb per MP3 we play
With my raise ranges we make almost DOUBLE per MP3 we play. This should be more profitable. What I want to know is how you would counter my plan knowing my raising range in a way that is more profitable for you. Oh yeah, please test my ranges because I am one person and I will not get near enough hands to find out if my plan is actually profitable or not.
GL at the tables
Originally posted by noclaninator
then before i know it i've made like $800 and i try NL200 and fail once, and another downswing bringing me back down to about a 40bi for NL100.
uhm isnt 40 BI for nl100 800$? 
i have never used elephant so i dont know how to make a graph but u can just download hem's trial and make a graph there if you want to.
@noclaninator nice post. its great help to see inside the head of another good sss player gives me good food for thought and certainly some stuff there might improve my game. i use holdem manager which is well worth the investment, i never used the elephant but u can maybe print screen the graph and paste it into another application or maybe u get a save option if u right click it. I have a big hangover right now so ill post my thoughts later 
Originally posted by noclaninator
You will be reraised about 11.54% of the time if your opponents are playing optimally (1 - (1 - 0.0302)^4) = 11.54%. Each opponent can reraise you with 3.02% of their hands so four opponents left to act means you get reraised 11.54% of the time.
Now, 88.46% of the time you will take the blinds with your raise against good opponents. 11.54% of the time you get reraised. You call 1.66/7.09 or 23.4% of the time. This can of course, vary based on reads, stats etc. but this is a good baseline if your opponent is playing well.
how about cold calls? what would you do if you get cc'd and your K9s or KJo hits TP and you meet resistance?
Originally posted by noclaninator
I am using elephant. How do i post a graph? (and wow are you going to like the graph because it is super swingy but its +$600 over 56k hands so far).It starts on Aug. 6 on NL50 after i decided to put $400 on full tilt again. Slightly less than breakeven over about 6k hands, then a good $150 spike downwards over a few hundred hands (15 buyins down over a few hundred hands? As i said it is a crazy graph) Then my upswing begins over the next 15k hands and before i know it i am rolled for NL100. Unfortunately that fails miserably and i lose $400 over 6k hands and move back down. But another upswing and i move to NL100 again, then before i know it i've made like $800 and i try NL200 and fail once, and another downswing bringing me back down to about a 40bi for NL100. Angry, I cashed out. But since I got ironman status for the month, i spent my medals on two $26 tournament tokens. I made a deal at the end of one for $467 and it was time for some more SSS! Now that is up to just over $1K again. I took my shot at NL200 SSS with just $800 in my account (Actual BRM is meaningless as i can instantly deposit as much as another $1500 instantly anyways). It has been quite a ride, and I have at least 40 or 50 HORRIBLY MISPLAYED hands in my database. I would go so far as to say that I've made as much or more from rakeback than I have actually playing poker. RAKEBACK DAY TOMORROW!
And about the looseness... I just can't help myself. One day I just got sick of having them fold to my raise every time. I refuse to be the nit at the table. I am loose and aggressive at heart. I am a fan of numbers as well. Shall we look at a typical SSS range and see how tight it is?
UTG and UTG + 1: AQ+, TT+(4.65%)
MP1 to MP3: AJ+, 88+, KQs (7.09%)
CO and BU: AT+, 77+, KQ and steals vs tight blinds (9.65% or more)As you can see if you look at the percentages, these ranges are extremely tight for the most part. UTG is okay, but if I am on the button, I should rightfully be taking about 25% of pots here. Raising a mere 10% does not accomplish this very well. Likewise if I am in MP3 I should be taking about 15% of pots where I am only raising 7%. These ranges are of course excellent at cleaning out any loose idiots at your table. The problem is (especially on NL200+) that people will have reads, stats, and be intelligent. Assume you are MP3 and it is open folded to you. Pokerstrategy says you raise something like AJ+ 88+ KQs(7.09%) in SSS (basic strategy is EVEN TIGHTER at AQ+, 99+). Bad opponents will call their favorite suited craphands against you and you get nice value from them even as a beginner. Suppose you are playing against intelligent opponents however.
You raised tight, so they must be even tighter. Their best play is to reraise you with only AK, JJ+ (3.02%). You can call QQ+, AKs(1.66%) because these hands each have 42.5% which is what you need to call a reraise profitably(I use equilator to figure these out).
You will be reraised about 11.54% of the time if your opponents are playing optimally (1 - (1 - 0.0302)^4) = 11.54%. Each opponent can reraise you with 3.02% of their hands so four opponents left to act means you get reraised 11.54% of the time.
Now, 88.46% of the time you will take the blinds with your raise against good opponents. 11.54% of the time you get reraised. You call 1.66/7.09 or 23.4% of the time. This can of course, vary based on reads, stats etc. but this is a good baseline if your opponent is playing well.
0.8846(1.5bb) - 0.0884(3bb) + 0.027(3.6bb)
From taking Money lost 59% is your eq against reraise range
The blinds To folds 59% of 40bb is 23.6bb1.327bb - 0.265bb + 0.097bb = 1.159bb per raise with pokerstrategy's range.
Each individual raise is more profitable using pokerstrategy's range. Since you do not get dealt these cards every time, this number must be further multiplied by the percentage you will make this raise.
1.159bb * 0.0709 = 0.0822bb
Good so we make this much on average for each hand we play that is open folded to us in MP3. I should hope that we are making money by raising. But this is pokerstrategy's way. Now let's compare it to my way.
My crazy chart says to raise this ridiculous range of 33+ ATo+ A8s+, KJo+, K9s+, QTs+, JTs, T9s, 98s(15.4%). Against this range of course, many more hands are a profitable reraise so your opponent SHOULD reraise AJs, AQ+, 88+(5.88%) and you call AQs, AK, 99+ (4.22%).
Using this looser range we will get raised more often obviously. 15.8% is about how often.
0.842(1.5bb) - 0.1158(3bb) + 0.0422(1.99bb)
you make 1.99bb on average
with your calling range1.263bb - 0.3474bb + 0.084bb = 1bb per raise which is a bit less than with pokerstrategy's range.
But we raise way way way more often! More than double the amount.
1bb * 0.154 = 0.154bb per MP3 we play
With my raise ranges we make almost DOUBLE per MP3 we play. This should be more profitable. What I want to know is how you would counter my plan knowing my raising range in a way that is more profitable for you. Oh yeah, please test my ranges because I am one person and I will not get near enough hands to find out if my plan is actually profitable or not.
GL at the tables
i am also a lag at heart and am interested in this kind of playstyle with a short stack.
my over all stats are vpip19 pfr13 etc.
although more recently ive found vpip16.9 prf 12.9 optimal
with a laggy playstyle i found focusing on reducing varience a big improvement to my game.
maybe thats a route u need to take because if u can stabalise those big swings u can maybe make some nice income.
i have had a goal since i started last january to try to make a stable income of 2000$ per month. im still working on it but believe im close to cracking it with the current experiment im trying .
with regards moving from nl100 to nl200 i found i need a bankroll of 2,500$ to do this with comfort, just my experience. I like to move up a limit and stay there!
i also like numbers! im more inclined to play to the people at the table than to predetermined ranges. I pretty much only play when im ahead of their pfr range and confident. I also make a lot of "plays" against donks. i wouldnt be afraid to steal or resteal with any two using stats to pick those spots etc.
There is no such thing as a stable income when it comes to poker. You can reduce variance (playing tighter is a great way to do this), but reducing variance costs you money in the long run. If you reduce variance too much you may not even be able to beat your limit. Remember, variance does not only mean huge downswings, but huge upswings as well.
For example my push or fold strategy from SB is very variance heavy. I am pushing 20bb to win 1.5bb. However you can imagine that if I am lucky I can win lots of money when I get called. So far there have been two suckouts. I shoved K8s from sb and got called by AA. Fortunately for me two kings were on the board and I doubled up (rofl). Or i can get called when I have the aces.
Still, if you are on a lower limit with a shorter bankroll, reducing variance can be a good idea. It is hard to short stack with the 30bi bankroll that pokerstrategy says if you make high variance moves a lot. Just remember that reducing variance always costs money.
And some bad news for me. Yesterday I lost 8 buyins. OUCH! But no giving up for me and if this downswing continues I could lose a lot of money. I still have about 45bi for NL200 and no plans to reduce variance as of yet.
Originally posted by noclaninator
There is no such thing as a stable income when it comes to poker. You can reduce variance (playing tighter is a great way to do this), but reducing variance costs you money in the long run. If you reduce variance too much you may not even be able to beat your limit. Remember, variance does not only mean huge downswings, but huge upswings as well.For example my push or fold strategy from SB is very variance heavy. I am pushing 20bb to win 1.5bb. However you can imagine that if I am lucky I can win lots of money when I get called. So far there have been two suckouts. I shoved K8s from sb and got called by AA. Fortunately for me two kings were on the board and I doubled up (rofl). Or i can get called when I have the aces.
Still, if you are on a lower limit with a shorter bankroll, reducing variance can be a good idea. It is hard to short stack with the 30bi bankroll that pokerstrategy says if you make high variance moves a lot. Just remember that reducing variance always costs money.
And some bad news for me. Yesterday I lost 8 buyins. OUCH! But no giving up for me and if this downswing continues I could lose a lot of money. I still have about 45bi for NL200 and no plans to reduce variance as of yet.
varience is a bicth and tbh the more u play the more u expose yourself to it. playing when u think you are ahead is important to offest that random factor.
im not so sure about the stabe income thing. I think u can farm a limit if u beat it badly, thats what i think im doing at the moment but need more time to be confident thats the case.
i hate to be negative but think of how the player to your left must be thinking when u make moves like all in from the sb. he can take your stack cheaply sometimes or maybe im missing something here u can be sometimes playign anytwo against very strong hands.
tbh reducing varience has had a profoundly positive effect on my win rate, which is why i recommend u consider it.
bad luch for you yesterday i never understand that either! when u maximise everything and still lose grrrr!
Disclaimer; These are my own personal views, Not saying they are correct;
Sorry I didn't read all the way through this but noclaminator If you use such a wide opening range I suggest doing so on only the 4 or 5 most suitable out of 12 tables only. Use an uber-tight style on the others. Otherwise you will get run over very quickly, Its incredibly easy to adjust to an SS player who is playing loose on ALL of his tables.
Personally, There is nothing I love more than someone SB shoving such a wide range as yours just to my right when I'm on the BB. On the SB I Instead deem it far preferable to choose a stealing range based on the player to your left. There are several Tag regs out there you will be able to steal close to 100% from SB and some you will be able to count on getting action from in close to 50% of cases when you steal SB. By all means though if you have a calling station on your left feel free to openshove SB.
I haven't been playing SSS properly for a while though due to trying to master BSS, last time I played NL200 or 400 with the strategy was back at the beginning of September.
Oh yea, If someone minraises you and you're on the BU have you ever just thought of calling and playing postflop? There are plenty of places to take the pot down on later streets that way.
a french diamond a friend of mine had worked out a LAG SPT which has apparently been successful last time that i checked, it is possible, but I believe works better at the higher levels. can't be assed right now but if no one finds it in the french forum i can look it up later.
It is true I probably do need to play the player more. I will watch for this. Raise/folding my sb seems really good against tight players. I do not know about calling minraises in the bb, but the fact is I am getting 3.5 to 1 in this scenario which should be decent odds for many hands even out of position.
But about my starting chart... I have too much faith in my math to give it up now. Pokerstrategy's starting hand chart loses to the super basic "fold everything that is not AA strategy." With pokerstrategy's chart we are raising about 8% (and this is the advanced starting chart) which is less than once per round of the blinds. The other players can fold everything and we will lose money in the long run. Not the best way to make money. However, if we face fishes, bad loose players etc. I have no problem using pokerstrategy's chart and going broke with every hand on the chart.
But for games without fishes... or maybe its just a table full of nits. Maybe you are on a table full of players who refuse to call raises from a shortstacker because they "know" you are tight. My chart is a decent way to play all of these games. My results unfortunately are uberfail over about 5k hands though so I have no results to show this.
Originally posted by noclaninator
It is true I probably do need to play the player more. I will watch for this. Raise/folding my sb seems really good against tight players. I do not know about calling minraises in the bb, but the fact is I am getting 3.5 to 1 in this scenario which should be decent odds for many hands even out of position.But about my starting chart... I have too much faith in my math to give it up now. Pokerstrategy's starting hand chart loses to the super basic "fold everything that is not AA strategy." With pokerstrategy's chart we are raising about 8% (and this is the advanced starting chart) which is less than once per round of the blinds. The other players can fold everything and we will lose money in the long run. Not the best way to make money. However, if we face fishes, bad loose players etc. I have no problem using pokerstrategy's chart and going broke with every hand on the chart.
But for games without fishes... or maybe its just a table full of nits. Maybe you are on a table full of players who refuse to call raises from a shortstacker because they "know" you are tight. My chart is a decent way to play all of these games. My results unfortunately are uberfail over about 5k hands though so I have no results to show this.
i agree that pokerstrategies chart is very basic. rather than having a starting hands chart i find it better to play each situation uniquely. for example if im in the co or bu i will fold AQ to early or middle raises from tight SSS players and tags, although i will be happy to reraise a lose player.
i am also reluctant to play hands like Kj, kq, qj, Arag except against real fish for the simple reason that these hands are dominated hard and have cost me enough in the past.
I still manage to have a vpip of 15-22 and pfr of 12 tho