# No limit Starter Course with LemOn36

• Coach
Coach
Joined: 07.02.2009

Hello Pokerstrategist!
Welcome to the feedback thread of

THE NO LIMIT STARTER COURSE
Coach: LemOn36
Who is this course for: This course is ideal for you if you are a fresh starter or you simply want to refresh your knowledge about the basic strategies from the past course

What can you expect?
In the next 5 weeks we will re-visit the foundations laid out by The No Limit Beginner Course created by Paxis, KTU and Svenbe, that was presented to you previously by Confidant91, teaching you step by step the simplest means of beating micro limits of NLHE SH.

Lesson 1 - Getting Started - Preflop
Article
Video

Lesson 2 - Getting Started - Postflop
Article
Video

Lesson 3 - Success Through Community Activity
Article
Video

Lesson 4 - Putting it all together - Live play
Article
Video

Lesson 5 - Five minutes to learn, a lifetime to master
Article
Video
• 75 replies
• Bronze
Joined: 23.09.2015
Hello, I would Like to participate, it is GMT time?
Pls confirm if with bronze status I would watch?
• Coach
Coach
Joined: 07.02.2009
Hello Implied, good question!
The time is GMT+1 (so it starts 19:00 GMT) and yes, it is for basic members, see you tonight!
• Coach
Coach
Joined: 07.02.2009
Lesson 1: Getting started with the [SH] Big Stack Strategy Part 1 - Pre-flop
The rules of Texas Hold'em

You will learn ...
• ... why position at the table is important.
• ... which hands to play pre-flop.
• ... how to utilise our starting hands charts.
• ... which variant to play depending on your free poker money.

Which hands should you play before the flop?
A good poker player always answers the question "Why?" first. The answer is simple: in order to win money. But how exactly can you do that? You have to differentiate between two cases: are you in a blind steal situation or do you want to fight for the pot with the best hand?

At a short-handed poker table 3 to 6 players take part in a game.

If less than 6 players take part, the early positions are discounted first. Hence at a table with 4 players the positions only range from CO to BB.

The blinds are of particular importance in poker. If they weren't part of the game, you could simply wait until you are dealt aces in order to move all-in with them right away. Nobody could beat your strategy. However, poker is a game for the blinds. You shouldn't attack them directly from the positions MP2 and MP3. Instead, you should play decisively less hands in these positions and focus on stronger hands compared to later positions. However, in the cut-off, button and small blind you can and should attack the blinds directly!

The following tables show you which hands to play in any given position.

A No-Limit Hold'em hand consists of two different cards. The following abbreviations apply:

A = Ace, K = King, Q = Queen, J = Jack, T = Ten (10)
"s" stands for "suited" and means that both cards have the same suit
"o" stands for "off-suited" and means that both cards have different suits

For example, ATs stands for:
A T , A T , A T , A T

While KJo stands for:
K J , K J , K J , K J ,
K J , K J , K J , K J ,
K J , K J , K J , K J

MP2:

In MP2 you should raise any coloured card to 4 BB if all players in front of you folded their hands.

MP3, CO:

In MP3 and the CO you should raise any coloured card to 3 BB if all players in front of you folded their hands.

BTN, SB:

On the BTN you should raise any coloured card to 2.5 BB if all players in front of you folded their hands.
In the SB you should raise any coloured card to 3 BB if all players in front of you folded their hands.

BB:

All ranges in one file to save and view whenever needed:

1. Vertical format:

2. Tiled format:

What do the different colours mean?

Note regarding limpers: If you're holding a hand that you should still raise even when players limped before it was your turn, you should raise to 4 BB + 1 BB for each limper, no matter what position you're in.

Green hands are the weakest hands you should play. You should play them mostly in order to simply steal the blinds. Furthermore, you should only play them when no one has joined the hand before it was your turn.

You don't play these hands anymore when ...
... there has been a raise before it was your turn.
... a player has joined the hand with a limp before it was your turn.
... there has been a raise after it was your turn.

On average, Blue hands are usually better than the hands with which your opponents call pre-flop. Therefore, you should play them when ...
... nobody has joined the hand before it was your turn.
... a player has joined the hand with a limp before it was your turn.

You don't play these hands anymore when ...
... there has been a raise before it was your turn. EXCEPTION: You are in the BB. In this case, you should continue to play yellow/blue marked hands and yellow hands.
... there has been a raise after it was your turn.

Red hands are your strongest hands. You play these hands when ...
... nobody has joined the hand before it was your turn.
... a player has joined the hand with a limp before it was your turn.
... there has been a raise before it was your turn. In this case, you should re-raise to 3.5 times the initial raise.
... there has been a raise after it was your turn. In this case, you should re-re-raise to 3 times your opponent's raise. If there are several raises after it was your turn, you should simply move all-in right away!

Yellow hands are only relevant when you are in the Big Blind. These hands are strong enough to call with against steals from players with at least 50 BB. You play these hands when ...
... there has been a raise before it was your turn from the CO, BU or SB to 4 BB at most.

You don't play these hands anymore when ...
... there has been more than one raise before it was your turn or when there has been a raise from MP2 or MP3.

Call 20 rule: Pairs have a very special characteristic. It's possible to hit a set with them on the flop without people actually realising. Therefore, you can and should limp with pairs when at least one player also limped before it was your turn. If there has been a raise before it was your turn, you should only call with a pair when your own stack and your opponent's both equal at least 20 times the amount required to call the raise.

This rule only applies to pairs that we shouldn't continue to play according to the colours in the tables. If that's not the case, we simply continue to play our hand as described in the chart!

Min-raise rule: If you are min-raised pre-flop, you can basically continue to play any hand that you've raised as long as your opponent's stack is at least 50 BB. In these cases, your opponent is giving you a good price to see the flop and you don't have to win the particular hand too often in order to make this move profitable in the long run.

If there has been a min-raise to 2 BB before it was your turn that doesn't constitute a steal, you should simply regard it as a limp!

If you re-raise against a min-raise you have to raise to 4 times the amount of the min-raise + 2 BB for each caller of the min-raise

Blind posting rule:

If a new player joins the table and is not willing to wait for the BB to join the game, he has the option to post the big blind right away to be able to join the game. This is called "blind posting".
How do we treat such a player?
When it comes to hand strength selection, we simply ignore this player and act as if he had folded. However, if we decide to raise a hand, we have to consider the additional chips in the pot and therefore raise to 4 BB + 1BB per limper.

What is bankroll management?
You should always regard the money that you're bringing to a table as an investment, similar to buying stocks. You would only buy those if they promise a profit and a reasonable risk of loss.

You can achieve the same in poker by using a bankroll management.
It will tell you in which limits to invest (meaning which limits to play) in order to find a balance between your wish to ...
• ... make progress and as much profit as possible when winning and ....
• ... not fall back too far and lose too much of your poker money when you're on a losing streak.

You want to win as much as possible when having a good run, without being hit too hard when losing. This can only be accomplished when sticking to our 25 buy-in bankroll management. It tells you excatly when to move up in limits once your bankroll is big enough, and when to move down in limits when you've lost too much on your current limit.

The bankroll management for the BSS beginners' strategy looks as follows:

• You always buy-in with a full stack (100 big blinds) at a table. 100 big blinds are one "buy-in".
• You always recharge your stack to 100 big blinds as soon as you've lost chips at the table and fallen below 100 big blinds.
• If you have 25 buy-ins for the next higher limit, you can move up to that limit.
For example, you can play NL5 with \$125 (NL5 blinds: 2c/5c)
• If you only have 25 buy-ins left for the next lower limit, you have to move down to that limit.
For example, you have to move down to NL2 if your bankroll is only \$50 again (NL2 blinds: 1c/2c)
• Bronze
Joined: 23.09.2015
Hey Lemon, since GMT+1 I'm trying to acess the coach and it is impossible.
I supossed there is a ton of people wacthing
• Coach
Coach
Joined: 07.02.2009
This is what you can look forward to next week:

Lesson 2: Getting started with the [SH] Big Stack Strategy Part 2 - Post-flop

Here you will learn:
• Your hand strength on the flop
• How to play different hands
• Several special rules

Step 1: Determine the category of your hand on the flop

The first thing you need to do once the flop is dealt is find out which category your hand belongs to. Basically, the following categories exist:

Made hands: These are hands that improved to a top pair or over pair on the flop.
For example, you're holding A J and the flop is J 9 3

Special rule - Re-raised/3-bet pots: If you're holding a red hand (see our charts) in a 3-bet pot, you should treat each top pair and over pair like a monster!

Monster: You're holding a monster whenever your hand is better than a made hand. This includes any two-pairs, trips, straights, flushes etc.

Strong draws: This category includes flush draws, meaning you're holding two cards of the same suit and there are two more cards of the same suit on the board.
For example, you're holding A Q and the board is 2 3 K
The second strong draw in this category is the so-called open ended straight draw, meaning you're holding a nearly complete straight with four connected cards and only one more missing.
For example, you're holding J 9 and the board is 4 8 T (any queen and any seven would complete your straight)

All other hands fall into the category "trash hands".

Step 2: Determine how to play your hands

Step 2.1: You've raised before the flop

Made hands should be bet on the flop, the turn and the river, always with a bet size of roughly 2/3 of the current pot. However, if there is a raise after you've bet, you should say goodbye to your made hand and fold.

Monsters are stronger than made hands and you should be ready to risk everything with them. Simply bet them just like made hands on flop, turn and river with the same bet size of 2/3 of the pot. If there is a raise after you've bet, you should re-raise to 3.5 times that raise and move all-in against any subsequent aggression from your opponent(s).

Strong draws should also be bet on flop and turn with a bet size of 2/3 of the pot. If an opponent decides to raise, you should only call if the raise size is the minimum amount (twice your original raise), otherwise you should fold. On the river you will have to say goodbye to your strong draw if you don't hit. Simply check and fold if your opponent bets.

Trash hands should only be bluffed against a single opponent on the flop with a bet size of 2/3 the pot. If your opponent raises, you should definitely fold. If he decides to call your bet, you should continue to play check/fold if you don't improve from the turn onwards.

Special rule - Your opponent bets first (donk bet): Against bets of at most 2 BB you should simply continue to play as if your opponent hadn't bet at all. You should, however, make sure that your raise equals at least 4 times the donk bet of your opponent (in case a raise of 2/3 of the pot is smaller than 4 times your opponent's bet). If your opponent bets more than 2 BB, you should only continue to play your monsters with a raise to 3.5 times your opponent's bet. Anything else should be folded.

Special rule - Nobody raised pre-flop: You should still play according to the different hand categories and continue as if you had raised before the flop.

Step 2.2: You've only called before the flop

Made hands should be checked and only called ...
... on the flop against a bet of at most 3/4 pot size. If your opponent checks on the flop, you should bet 2/3 of the pot on the flop, turn and river.
... on the turn against a bet of at most 2/3 pot size. If your opponent checks on the turn, you should bet 2/3 of the pot on the turn and river.
... on the river against a bet of at most 1/2 pot size. If your opponent checks on the river, you should bet 2/3 of the pot.

Monsters should be bet directly on the flop, turn and river for 2/3 of the pot. If there is a raise after you've bet, you should re-raise to 3.5 times that amount and move all-in against any other subsequent aggression.

Strong draws should be checked on the flop and turn and only be called with against a bet of at most 1/2 the pot. On the river you should give up your draw if you've missed and switch to playing check/fold.

Trash hands should be checked from the flop onwards and you should definitely fold them against any bet.

Special rule - Your opponent checks against you on the flop: If your opponent checks on the flop despite raising pre-flop and you are heads-up, you should bet any hand that you're holding for 2/3 of the pot and then continue to play it according to the respective hand category.
• Coach
Coach
Joined: 07.02.2009
Originally posted by Implied
Hey Lemon, since GMT+1 I'm trying to acess the coach and it is impossible.
I supossed there is a ton of people wacthing
Hey, we did not have caps on viewers, did you manage to see the coaching? If not we will be releasing it as a video so you won't miss out!
Next time you can simply go to http://www.pokerstrategy.com/coaching/ to see the coaching anyways even if you can't tune into the chat.

Hope that helps!
• Bronze
Joined: 17.05.2015
Originally posted by LemOn36
Hello Implied, good question!
The time is GMT+1 (so it starts 19:00 GMT) and yes, it is for basic members, see you tonight!
Sorry I missed tonight Hopefully the recap video will be up soon and I can catch up before next week

I think you quoted the wrong timezones? Which might account for some of the confusion above with people finding the course.

Its stated as 20:00 GMT +1 - which is current UK time - I think the course actually starts at 20:00 GMT + 2 - which is current European (Berlin, Paris etc) time. So it would have started at 18:00 GMT. Or maybe I've misunderstood and you were correct afterall

I think there is often a common misconception that UK Time = GMT (Greenwich Mean Time) all year - whereas in summer (yes we're still on Summer Clocks!!) UK time advances to GMT + 1 (And Europe advances to GMT + 2). GMT does NOT move for daylight saving.
• Coach
Coach
Joined: 07.02.2009
Originally posted by 8runo
Originally posted by LemOn36
Hello Implied, good question!
The time is GMT+1 (so it starts 19:00 GMT) and yes, it is for basic members, see you tonight!
Sorry I missed tonight Hopefully the recap video will be up soon and I can catch up before next week

I think you quoted the wrong timezones? Which might account for some of the confusion above with people finding the course.

Its stated as 20:00 GMT +1 - which is current UK time - I think the course actually starts at 20:00 GMT + 2 - which is current European (Berlin, Paris etc) time. So it would have started at 18:00 GMT. Or maybe I've misunderstood and you were correct afterall

I think there is often a common misconception that UK Time = GMT (Greenwich Mean Time) all year - whereas in summer (yes we're still on Summer Clocks!!) UK time advances to GMT + 1 (And Europe advances to GMT + 2). GMT does NOT move for daylight saving.
Oh yes looks like I did? Basically it's UK time +1hour! I lived in Scotland for 7 years, and all I know is that Time in Mainland Europe is always +1 hour of time in the UK.
• Bronze
Joined: 17.05.2015
Originally posted by LemOn36Basically it's UK time +1hour!
The start time should have been listed as 20:00 (GMT +2) then.

Of course it all changes in a couple of weeks........
• Silver
Joined: 26.06.2014
Hi, time to post some hands:

No. 1: Probably nothing we can do? These spots start to burn my roll for two weeks now. It is becoming painful:

Full Tilt - \$0.05 NL FAST (6 max) - Holdem - 6 players
Hand converted by PokerTracker 4

Hero (UTG): 213 BB
MP: 43.2 BB (VPIP: 45.45, PFR: 9.09, 3Bet Preflop: 9.09, Hands: 22)
CO: 180 BB (VPIP: 15.52, PFR: 10.34, 3Bet Preflop: 0.00, Hands: 60)
BTN: 191.2 BB (VPIP: 21.04, PFR: 6.24, 3Bet Preflop: 2.89, Hands: 897)
SB: 103 BB (VPIP: 16.19, PFR: 12.06, 3Bet Preflop: 7.74, Hands: 798)
BB: 98.2 BB (VPIP: 20.85, PFR: 18.29, 3Bet Preflop: 9.63, Hands: 823)

SB posts SB 0.4 BB, BB posts BB 1 BB

Pre Flop: (pot: 1.4 BB) Hero has K A

Hero raises to 2.4 BB, MP calls 2.4 BB, fold, BTN calls 2.4 BB, fold, fold

Flop: (8.6 BB, 3 players) 9 K 6
Hero bets 6 BB, fold, BTN calls 6 BB

Turn: (20.6 BB, 2 players) 8
Hero bets 20.6 BB, BTN calls 20.6 BB

River: (61.8 BB, 2 players) 4
Hero bets 30.8 BB, BTN calls 30.8 BB

Hero shows K A (One Pair, Kings)
(Pre 73%, Flop 82%, Turn 14%)
BTN shows K 8 (Two Pair, Kings and Eights)
(Pre 27%, Flop 18%, Turn 86%)
BTN wins 116.2 BB

No. 2
I have absolutely no idea what this was again: I think I just fold the river, if these NL5 fish donk allin, they almost always have it on the river. They love the river ...

Full Tilt - \$0.05 NL FAST (6 max) - Holdem - 6 players
Hand converted by PokerTracker 4

MP: 37.6 BB (VPIP: 19.90, PFR: 12.99, 3Bet Preflop: 3.53, Hands: 842)
Hero (CO): 102.8 BB
BTN: 80.8 BB (VPIP: 50.00, PFR: 0.00, 3Bet Preflop: 0.00, Hands: 2)
SB: 160.4 BB (VPIP: 18.75, PFR: 12.50, 3Bet Preflop: 11.11, Hands: 16)
BB: 100 BB (VPIP: 23.64, PFR: 10.91, 3Bet Preflop: 12.50, Hands: 55)
UTG: 99 BB (VPIP: 10.00, PFR: 3.33, 3Bet Preflop: 0.00, Hands: 31)

SB posts SB 0.4 BB, BB posts BB 1 BB

Pre Flop: (pot: 1.4 BB) Hero has A K

UTG raises to 3 BB, fold, Hero raises to 9 BB, fold, fold, fold, UTG calls 6 BB

Flop: (19.4 BB, 2 players) 4 2 3
UTG checks, Hero bets 9.6 BB, UTG calls 9.6 BB

Turn: (38.6 BB, 2 players) 5
UTG checks, Hero bets 30 BB, UTG calls 30 BB

River: (98.6 BB, 2 players) 8
UTG bets 50.4 BB and is all-in, fold

UTG wins 92.8 BB

Hand No 3: 3bet pot, fish allin on the Turn ... hard to fold in a 3bet pot, but obviously the right move.

Full Tilt - \$0.05 NL FAST (6 max) - Holdem - 6 players
Hand converted by PokerTracker 4

Hero (BTN): 100 BB
SB: 90.8 BB
BB: 93 BB (VPIP: 15.96, PFR: 13.83, 3Bet Preflop: 7.32, Hands: 95)
UTG: 100.4 BB (VPIP: 19.35, PFR: 17.74, 3Bet Preflop: 13.04, Hands: 64)
MP: 166.6 BB (VPIP: 18.46, PFR: 13.49, 3Bet Preflop: 1.66, Hands: 1,011)
CO: 153 BB (VPIP: 21.01, PFR: 18.70, 3Bet Preflop: 11.62, Hands: 514)

SB posts SB 0.4 BB, BB posts BB 1 BB

Pre Flop: (pot: 1.4 BB) Hero has A K

fold, fold, fold, Hero raises to 2 BB, SB calls 1.6 BB, BB raises to 10 BB, Hero calls 8 BB, SB calls 8 BB

Flop: (30 BB, 3 players) 3 7 K
SB checks, BB checks, Hero bets 28 BB, SB calls 28 BB, fold

Turn: (86 BB, 2 players) 4
SB bets 52.8 BB and is all-in, Hero calls 52.8 BB

River: (191.6 BB, 2 players) 8

SB shows 7 7 (Three of a Kind, Sevens)
(Pre 55%, Flop 98%, Turn 100%)
Hero shows A K (One Pair, Kings)
(Pre 45%, Flop 2%, Turn 0%)
SB wins 180.4 BB

Btw, I hope it is ok to post hands here - but I guess it should be part of improving.
• Silver
Joined: 26.06.2014
Since these things keep happening, I guess all I gotta do is just keep barreling for value like a maniac:

Full Tilt - \$0.05 NL FAST (6 max) - Holdem - 6 players
Hand converted by PokerTracker 4

BTN: 231.6 BB (VPIP: 21.93, PFR: 16.37, 3Bet Preflop: 5.06, Hands: 625)
Hero (SB): 110.4 BB
BB: 100 BB (VPIP: 25.00, PFR: 25.00, 3Bet Preflop: 0.00, Hands: 33)
UTG: 125.4 BB (VPIP: 0.00, PFR: 0.00, 3Bet Preflop: 0.00, Hands: 3)
MP: 320.2 BB (VPIP: 26.84, PFR: 19.19, 3Bet Preflop: 6.64, Hands: 821)
CO: 161.8 BB (VPIP: 17.01, PFR: 10.20, 3Bet Preflop: 1.96, Hands: 152)

Hero posts SB 0.4 BB, BB posts BB 1 BB

Pre Flop: (pot: 1.4 BB) Hero has K A

UTG raises to 2 BB, fold, fold, fold, Hero raises to 8 BB, fold, UTG calls 6 BB

Flop: (17 BB, 2 players) 6 6 A
Hero bets 11 BB, UTG calls 11 BB

Turn: (39 BB, 2 players) 4
Hero bets 39 BB, UTG calls 39 BB

River: (117 BB, 2 players) K
Hero bets 52.4 BB and is all-in, UTG calls 52.4 BB

Hero shows K A (Two Pair, Aces and Kings)
(Pre 75%, Flop 82%, Turn 90%)
UTG mucks A J (Two Pair, Aces and Sixes)
(Pre 25%, Flop 18%, Turn 10%)
Hero wins 208.8 BB
• Coach
Coach
Joined: 07.02.2009
Yo
Hand1
Beginner strategy: You bet 2/3 pot flop, turn and river
NL5 population+ reads: yeah beginner strategy seems good - 2/3 all streets people should raise sets so you can just vbet vs KQ JQ KTs
Good players: Probably cbet around 33% OTF, turn will be close
Hand2
Beginner strategy: 3bet, 66% Flop 66%turn, shove river
Reads: I flat pre, The AKo has similar EV between 3bet and call. But he raised 1/31 hands, definitely flatting pre-flop here. As played I'd either bet around 30% turn or check back, call river. You have tons of Ax in your range and it should be pretty obvious that you have tons of straights in your range
Hand3
Beginner strategy: 2.5bb pre, 4bet call preflop
NL5/reads: - 4b call is fine, he's not fullstacked. Call should be similar in EV. You have no reason to pot the flop though, given it's a squeeze pot you shouldn't have that many draws to protect against and you want to get value out of weaker hands/spazzes. So I'd bet around 35-40% on the flop+stack off. Result vs this hand will be the same, but you get value from others.

Hand4
Beginner strategy; 3bet, 2/3,2/3,shove
NL5/reads: beginner strategy is fine except I'd change sizings to 1/2 pot 67% pot+shove. Don't expect Ax to fold at NL5 so we want to get more value from random stuff and weak pairs by betting smaller otf.
• Silver
Joined: 26.06.2014
Originally posted by LemOn36
Yo
Hand1
Beginner strategy: You bet 2/3 pot flop, turn and river
NL5 population+ reads: yeah beginner strategy seems good - 2/3 all streets people should raise sets so you can just vbet vs KQ JQ KTs
Good players: Probably cbet around 33% OTF, turn will be close
Hand2
Beginner strategy: 3bet, 66% Flop 66%turn, shove river
Reads: I flat pre, The AKo has similar EV between 3bet and call. But he raised 1/31 hands, definitely flatting pre-flop here. As played I'd either bet around 30% turn or check back, call river. You have tons of Ax in your range and it should be pretty obvious that you have tons of straights in your range
Hand3
Beginner strategy: 2.5bb pre, 4bet call preflop
NL5/reads: - 4b call is fine, he's not fullstacked. Call should be similar in EV. You have no reason to pot the flop though, given it's a squeeze pot you shouldn't have that many draws to protect against and you want to get value out of weaker hands/spazzes. So I'd bet around 35-40% on the flop+stack off. Result vs this hand will be the same, but you get value from others.

Hand4
Beginner strategy; 3bet, 2/3,2/3,shove
NL5/reads: beginner strategy is fine except I'd change sizings to 1/2 pot 67% pot+shove. Don't expect Ax to fold at NL5 so we want to get more value from random stuff and weak pairs by betting smaller otf.

So if I got this you said in general I should not bet so large on the flop in these hands if the texture is not overly draw heavy, since there is still plenty of time to get it in or just bet bigger on the Turn? -> in order to get more value from weaker hands that might call a smaller bet on the flop, but then might fold Turn or river? (obv. not in these examples , but in general?)
• Bronze
Joined: 10.10.2015
Hey Lemon, definitely going to get in on the coaching session today. Are there videos of the 2 previous sessions? I'd love to watch those if possible.
• Bronze
Joined: 17.05.2015
You can view Lemons archive here: http://www.pokerstrategy.com/video/?query=LemOn36
• Coach
Coach
Joined: 07.02.2009
Originally posted by nickycakes
Hey Lemon, definitely going to get in on the coaching session today. Are there videos of the 2 previous sessions? I'd love to watch those if possible.
Hello Nickycakes!
We have the first video where you learn pre-flop play uploaded already here:
http://www.pokerstrategy.com/video/38808/

I definitely recommend you view the first one before the second coaching, as we will be building on what we have learned last time.
• Coach
Coach
Joined: 07.02.2009
Originally posted by FollowTheSmartMoney
Originally posted by LemOn36
Yo
Hand1
Beginner strategy: You bet 2/3 pot flop, turn and river
NL5 population+ reads: yeah beginner strategy seems good - 2/3 all streets people should raise sets so you can just vbet vs KQ JQ KTs
Good players: Probably cbet around 33% OTF, turn will be close
Hand2
Beginner strategy: 3bet, 66% Flop 66%turn, shove river
Reads: I flat pre, The AKo has similar EV between 3bet and call. But he raised 1/31 hands, definitely flatting pre-flop here. As played I'd either bet around 30% turn or check back, call river. You have tons of Ax in your range and it should be pretty obvious that you have tons of straights in your range
Hand3
Beginner strategy: 2.5bb pre, 4bet call preflop
NL5/reads: - 4b call is fine, he's not fullstacked. Call should be similar in EV. You have no reason to pot the flop though, given it's a squeeze pot you shouldn't have that many draws to protect against and you want to get value out of weaker hands/spazzes. So I'd bet around 35-40% on the flop+stack off. Result vs this hand will be the same, but you get value from others.

Hand4
Beginner strategy; 3bet, 2/3,2/3,shove
NL5/reads: beginner strategy is fine except I'd change sizings to 1/2 pot 67% pot+shove. Don't expect Ax to fold at NL5 so we want to get more value from random stuff and weak pairs by betting smaller otf.

So if I got this you said in general I should not bet so large on the flop in these hands if the texture is not overly draw heavy, since there is still plenty of time to get it in or just bet bigger on the Turn? -> in order to get more value from weaker hands that might call a smaller bet on the flop, but then might fold Turn or river? (obv. not in these examples , but in general?)
Yeah in 3bet and especially squeeze pots 100bb deep on dry-ish boards you don't want to bet big as most of the time you can get the stacks in by the river. At microstakes NL25 included people will randomly give you value with weak hands and you get stacks in by the river anyways if they actually do have a weaker made hand than yours
• Silver
Joined: 26.06.2014
[/quote]Yeah in 3bet and especially squeeze pots 100bb deep on dry-ish boards you don't want to bet big as most of the time you can get the stacks in by the river. At microstakes NL25 included people will randomly give you value with weak hands and you get stacks in by the river anyways if they actually do have a weaker made hand than yours[/quote]agree, especially with the huge reversed implieds if they spike their set- and fish spike a set often :/(
• Bronze
Joined: 29.07.2013
Hi Lemon,
I have enjoyed your lessons so far and commend your way of teaching! I find things easier to learn when coach is always positive and upbeat. I just have a couple of questions.

If i understood it correctly we are to fold to 3-bets preflop with all hands that aren't red? Would this then make our fold to 3-bet too high and make ourselves a target?

Also i heard you mention a few times that some of these tips and tricks, such as 100% cbet are very successful on 2nl and 5nl. At the moment im on 10nl, does this change slightly here? I seem to have more luck/success on the 5s with this than the 10s, do you think thats just variance or do you think that ,generally , people are a bit more observant to this on that limit?
I find myself being floated more often than not and lead into some interesting but marginal situations on the turn, where im not really sure if should go ahead and double barrel or check-raise etc or not. I think that some regs are getting used to me and exploiting my patterns. So im I am in two minds whether to go with my read and adapt to the play, or to just stick to the rules and give it up!

I may of understood some of this incorrectly so please correct me if im wrong!

Thanks for your time and see you next week.