Th334

Hi German,

Welcome to the beginners course.

I'm from Canada (although born in Romania) and I know where Ukraine is

Homework:

1) Live poker is great if you have the bankroll and time on your hands :). I play a bunch of it and really enjoy it.

2) Looks good. And you also have plans on how to improve some of your weaknesses which is great. Are you thinking of playing Short handed or Full Ring cash games?

3) Tight Aggressive = play fewer hands peflop but when you do play a hand you play it aggressively.

Good luck with the next step and don't forget that you can attend the beginners coaching every Sunday. For more details go here: http://www.pokerstrategy.com/coaching/176691/ (it might be a bit late in Australia but maybe you are a night owl).

Hi, Bogdan, it's nice to meet you.

Originally posted by BogdanPS
Are you thinking of playing Short handed or Full Ring cash games?

I'm planning to play FR. It seems like there's more material on FR game here, plus I always preferred FR even in tournaments. At least I'm planning to start with FR. Also, if several people were gone from 10-max table, you can still play your strategy or add a few looser moves to your arsenal from SH-strategy articles. If you were SH initially though, your range would have to become much looser if you dropped from 6-max to 3-handed game. Finally, on micro limits, I expect my edge to be positive or at least not negative most of the time. That's why the more players -- the more fish seems to be the case.

I'll post HW2 once I played a hundred of hands or something. Up until now I was only reading and watching

See ya soon!

HOMEWORK TWO

Question 1: What do you think you could play differently than suggested in the BSS Starting Hands Chart and why?
1) At the moment I'm stealing a bit looser. Depending on my position and the villains' tightness I might steal with Ax, Kxs, 45+, 46s+, and, of course, broadway.

I have a question right here What is the second best position for stealing? First, I assume, is BU. Then I personally prefer more to steal form CO than form SB. Should my steal range from CO and SB rather be very close?

2) Another thing is, that depending on my opponent's Steal and Fold to Re-steal stats, I try to re-steal with hands like AT+, KQ, 77+

3) Also I try to isolate limpers if I'm in late position and either my hand is ahead of (perfectly dominating) their range, or I feel like I have enough fold equity.

4) I use call-15 rule for 3-bets.

5) I'm thinking of opening middle aces from early positions depending on the kicker, how late is our early position, and whether they are suited or not. Apparently, AQs is quite good to open from UTG-3. I won't go too far that road right now, I think there're good articles on this in the silver section that I gonna check soon.

But if it is, for some reason, a very bad idea, please let me know now ♦

Question 2: Do you have questions about your preflop play? Post your hand for evaluation.
Since I'm lucky enough to have you as my hand judge as well, I won't link my hands, because you have already seen them

But I do have a question! (the last one, honestly) Bogdan, what lies behind open-limping? According to the chart, the only case when we open-limp is with pockets and only from MP. Firstly, this is goddamn obvious. It's just no good to be so much polarized. Secondly, why is it better to open-limp them at all? We could have raised the higher ones (~66+), and fold the smaller ones if no one limped before us. At least, we would not be so easy to read.

Question 3: What is the equity of AKo against the top 5% range? 5% means 88+, AJs+, KQs, AKo.
AKo would have 46.32% equity.

Thanks in advance for helping me out with the questions!

P.S.: my first 800 hands in cash using BSS costed me 150 bbs ♠_cry: Of course it's a tiny sample size, but still. Hopefully, next session will bring some profit.

P.P.S.: How do I post an image here (a graph f.e.)? I can only link, but not download from my PC.

HOMEWORK THREE

Question 1: You are holding KQ. What is your preflop equity against an opponent who has 33? How does the equity change on this flop: J53?
Preflop: my guess was 40%, but it's actually 48%.
Flop: my estimate was less than 2%, but it's actually more than 3% I guess I didn't account for a backdoor straight.

Question 2:
No Limit hold'em $2 (9-handed)
Players and stacks:
UTG: $2.00
UTG+1: $2.08
MP1: $1.92
MP2: $1.00
MP3: $3.06
CO: (Hero) $2.08
BU: $2.00
SB: $2.00
BB: $1.24
Preflop: Hero is CO with AJ
5 folds, Hero raises to $0.08, BU calls $0.08, SB folds, BB calls $0.06.
Flop: ($0.25) 263 (3 players)
BB checks, Hero checks, BU checks.
Turn: ($0.25) 5 (3 players)
BB checks, Hero bets $0.22, BU raises to $0.44, BB folds, Hero...?

Hero folds. We fold because:
1) we have nothing and frankly speaking cannot improve
2) he is representing a straight quite clearly, it's in his range
3) we have no position on later streets

As played, I would rather c-bet flop than turn. In general, I think that the less money we invest in this hand -- the better.

Question 3: Do you have questions about your postflop play? Post your hand for evaluation.
A hand I posted for evaluation.

A question: Bogdan, is it true that at least one of these is absolutely essential if we're trying to get EV from our bluff 2nd barrels:
a) a scare card on turn that we can represent
---or---
b) a draw card on turn that we can represent

Plus there always should be less than 3 opponents and a relatively dry board.

That's when I bluff second barrel at the moment, just wonder whether it's a good approach.

Thanks.

Originally posted by Th334
Hi, Bogdan, it's nice to meet you.

Originally posted by BogdanPS
Are you thinking of playing Short handed or Full Ring cash games?

I'm planning to play FR. It seems like there's more material on FR game here, plus I always preferred FR even in tournaments. At least I'm planning to start with FR. Also, if several people were gone from 10-max table, you can still play your strategy or add a few looser moves to your arsenal from SH-strategy articles. If you were SH initially though, your range would have to become much looser if you dropped from 6-max to 3-handed game. Finally, on micro limits, I expect my edge to be positive or at least not negative most of the time. That's why the more players -- the more fish seems to be the case.

I'll post HW2 once I played a hundred of hands or something. Up until now I was only reading and watching

See ya soon!

Hi German,

Starting at FR is usually a good idea. The games are a bit more passive and there is less variance which is always good.

As you get better as a player the same concepts you'd apply to win at FR can be applied to other games such as SH and HU. Eventually, if you stick with poker, you'd want to know how to play any size game.

Originally posted by Th334
HOMEWORK TWO

Question 1: What do you think you could play differently than suggested in the BSS Starting Hands Chart and why?
1) At the moment I'm stealing a bit looser. Depending on my position and the villains' tightness I might steal with Ax, Kxs, 45+, 46s+, and, of course, broadway.

I have a question right here What is the second best position for stealing? First, I assume, is BU. Then I personally prefer more to steal form CO than form SB. Should my steal range from CO and SB rather be very close?

2) Another thing is, that depending on my opponent's Steal and Fold to Re-steal stats, I try to re-steal with hands like AT+, KQ, 77+

3) Also I try to isolate limpers if I'm in late position and either my hand is ahead of (perfectly dominating) their range, or I feel like I have enough fold equity.

4) I use call-15 rule for 3-bets.

5) I'm thinking of opening middle aces from early positions depending on the kicker, how late is our early position, and whether they are suited or not. Apparently, AQs is quite good to open from UTG-3. I won't go too far that road right now, I think there're good articles on this in the silver section that I gonna check soon.

But if it is, for some reason, a very bad idea, please let me know now ♦

1) Both CO and SB could be the second best position. Why? because it depends on villains

If I have aggressive blinds (when in CO) but a passive BTN it will be more profitable to steal more from SB and less from CO.

However, on average, because you are IP CO will be the better position.

2) We talked briefly about re-stealing with medium PPs earlier so i will just add here that re-stealing with 77-JJ, AT-AQ, KQ usually turn your hands into a bluff (we can't continue after 4-bet and if called we may be in bad shape postflop).

Your range for re-steal should include bluffs, that have some blockers/playability, like suited aces, suited kings, suited queens (this is assuming villain can call 3-bet). If villain only 4-bets or folds than our hand isn't as valuable (of course blockers are still important).

3-5) looks good

As a general note we want to deviate from the "standard" whenever we have new information (poker is a game of limited information, so the more information we have the better we can play).

Question 2: Do you have questions about your preflop play? Post your hand for evaluation.
Since I'm lucky enough to have you as my hand judge as well, I won't link my hands, because you have already seen them

But I do have a question! (the last one, honestly) Bogdan, what lies behind open-limping? According to the chart, the only case when we open-limp is with pockets and only from MP. Firstly, this is goddamn obvious. It's just no good to be so much polarized. Secondly, why is it better to open-limp them at all? We could have raised the higher ones (~66+), and fold the smaller ones if no one limped before us. At least, we would not be so easy to read.

I agree with you here. There isn't much difference between 33 and 66 usually and we can fold these in early position with no fish behind us. If we have these recreational players then we can start raising them because our implied odds are really good.

Question 3: What is the equity of AKo against the top 5% range? 5% means 88+, AJs+, KQs, AKo.
AKo would have 46.32% equity.

Thanks in advance for helping me out with the questions!

P.S.: my first 800 hands in cash using BSS costed me 150 bbs ♠_cry: Of course it's a tiny sample size, but still. Hopefully, next session will bring some profit.

P.P.S.: How do I post an image here (a graph f.e.)? I can only link, but not download from my PC.

To post an image you would need to first upload it to a image hosting website (like http://imageshack.us/ )

Good work overall on the homework, you put a lot of effort into it (as well as the hands you post for evaluations).

Best of luck.

Originally posted by Th334
HOMEWORK THREE

Question 1: You are holding KQ. What is your preflop equity against an opponent who has 33? How does the equity change on this flop: J53?
Preflop: my guess was 40%, but it's actually 48%.
Flop: my estimate was less than 2%, but it's actually more than 3% I guess I didn't account for a backdoor straight.

For the flop: do you mean that we have 3% equity with the flush draw?

Question 2:
No Limit hold'em $2 (9-handed)
Players and stacks:
UTG: $2.00
UTG+1: $2.08
MP1: $1.92
MP2: $1.00
MP3: $3.06
CO: (Hero) $2.08
BU: $2.00
SB: $2.00
BB: $1.24
Preflop: Hero is CO with AJ
5 folds, Hero raises to $0.08, BU calls $0.08, SB folds, BB calls $0.06.
Flop: ($0.25) 263 (3 players)
BB checks, Hero checks, BU checks.
Turn: ($0.25) 5 (3 players)
BB checks, Hero bets $0.22, BU raises to $0.44, BB folds, Hero...?

Hero folds. We fold because:
1) we have nothing and frankly speaking cannot improve
2) he is representing a straight quite clearly, it's in his range
3) we have no position on later streets

As played, I would rather c-bet flop than turn. In general, I think that the less money we invest in this hand -- the better.

With AJcc we have the nut flush (backdoor) draw here so folding given the odds is not the best play. Given we have the backdoor flushdraw our implied odds are larger.

Question 3: Do you have questions about your postflop play? Post your hand for evaluation.
A hand I posted for evaluation.

A question: Bogdan, is it true that at least one of these is absolutely essential if we're trying to get EV from our bluff 2nd barrels:
a) a scare card on turn that we can represent
---or---
b) a draw card on turn that we can represent

Plus there always should be less than 3 opponents and a relatively dry board.

That's when I bluff second barrel at the moment, just wonder whether it's a good approach.

Thanks.

Both A) and B) are correct but we can also 2nd barrel when we expect the opponent to call light on the flop (either trying to get to showdown or floating us) and then fold turn.

Best of luck.

Hi, Bogdan,

Thank you for the replies!

I got a bit confused with the homework though.

Regarding HOMEWORK THREE: Question 2 -- Disregard this please, I figured out what's the problem. Copy-paste does not copy emoticons (like suits). Sorry about that. I did it properly in the 4th homework.

With AJcc we have the nut flush (backdoor) draw here so folding given the odds is not the best play. Given we have the backdoor flushdraw our implied odds are larger.

What flush-draws are we talking about when the suit is not specified neither on our hand nor on the community cards? We might have as well said that we already have a nut flush...so I thought that the task implies that the board is rainbow and our hand is not suited (otherwise, why would they write AJ but not AJcc? same goes with the board).

The only thing we have is a gutshot and the overcards. Considering his check-raise, I don't thing that our inferior gutshot and especially overcards are worth enough to call even a min-raise. If we are looking at odds and oust, we have to be sure that our outs will give us the winning hand. However, it doesn't seem to be the case here.

Same with

Question 1: You are holding KQ. What is your preflop equity against an opponent who has 33? How does the equity change on this flop: J53?
Preflop: my guess was 40%, but it's actually 48%.
Flop: my estimate was less than 2%, but it's actually more than 3% I guess I didn't account for a backdoor straight.

For the flop: do you mean that we have 3% equity with the flush draw?

Flush-draw? Do we have some sort of misunderstanding with the terminology? Nothing is suited here (well, at least 2 cards out of 5 should be suited, it doesn't give as a FD though). I was talking about AKQJT backdoor straight draw, and KQJT9 backdoor straight draw. I didn't account for that.

Never mind about my 2%, it's actually wrong, our possibility to hit a winning set is 0.6%, but if we add these two backdoor straight draws as well, we might end up with 3% that the equilab gave me.

Best,

German

Hi there,

I forgot to tell you the great news! (well...)

As I already had some experience with FR (SSS & SNG), I decided to try out SH tables, and I liked it! You even might have noticed that I started posting SH-game hands on the forum

I reckon that this game variant suits me way better, and my further hands/questions will be mainly aimed on understanding SH play. I am sure that you have plenty expertise in both game variants, so I believe it should not be a problem.

Thanks again for all your feedback, I took everything into account. All in all, we are looking for the next homework. I just want to finish off all the Bronze section articles and play another 500 hands at SH tables.

Best regards,

German

HOMEWORK FOUR

Question 1: Post a hand for evaluation in which you have the initiative postflop.
I don't really see why posting my hands here, not in the appropriate forum, so I made up one Instead of asking a question, I'll give an example:

No Limit $0.01/$0.02 6-max

Preflop
Hero is CO with A 9

fold, fold, Hero raises to $0.08, fold, fold, BB calls $0.06

Flop ($0.17)
5 7 4

BB checks, Hero?

As far as I'm concerned, we haven't hit anything playable, and the villain likely has. That's why I would prefer to check behind as a general rule, not to invest more money into the hand we are not likely to win.

However, I heard an argument that IP we can c-bet almost anything into one opponent, given that he is not extremely loose.

What is your plan for playing such spots? We missed, drawy board, IP, it checked to us.

Question 2: Evaluate one of the hands submitted by other members.
With great pleasure! Here you go: link, link, and link. ...aaand link, link for example. That will do.

Question 3: You are on the flop with K Q :diamond:. The board cards are J :spade:, 9 :club:, 8 :heart:, and your opponent holds 7 7 :heart:. What is your equity in this spot?
If we were to decide push or fold, I would fold. We have 10 clean outs, it gives us like 44% to complete a winning hand (unless our opponent improves), so, considering this, I would imagine our equity to be around 40%.

The answer is 41.4%. Not bad. I don't really know, however, did I estimate it right or I was just lucky. Could you please tell me whether or not it's possible to estimate the equity like I do?

PS: Bogdan, I realized the confusion with the 3rd homework. I just copy-pasted the question and didn't notice that the suits have not been copied. Sorry about that. Of course it changes a lot I'll be doing it properly from now on.

Originally posted by Th334
Hi there,

I forgot to tell you the great news! (well...)

As I already had some experience with FR (SSS & SNG), I decided to try out SH tables, and I liked it! You even might have noticed that I started posting SH-game hands on the forum

I reckon that this game variant suits me way better, and my further hands/questions will be mainly aimed on understanding SH play. I am sure that you have plenty expertise in both game variants, so I believe it should not be a problem.

Thanks again for all your feedback, I took everything into account. All in all, we are looking for the next homework. I just want to finish off all the Bronze section articles and play another 500 hands at SH tables.

Best regards,

German

Glad to hear you also like SH.

As you become a more seasoned player it would be great if you were comfortable playing FR, SH and HU.

I'd recommend that at the beginning you choose one type of came and try to become as good as possible at it. It can be either FR or SH. And both have their advantages and disadvantages.

Originally posted by Th334
HOMEWORK FOUR

Question 1: Post a hand for evaluation in which you have the initiative postflop.
I don't really see why posting my hands here, not in the appropriate forum, so I made up one Instead of asking a question, I'll give an example:

No Limit $0.01/$0.02 6-max

Preflop
Hero is CO with A 9

fold, fold, Hero raises to $0.08, fold, fold, BB calls $0.06

Flop ($0.17)
5 7 4

BB checks, Hero?

As far as I'm concerned, we haven't hit anything playable, and the villain likely has. That's why I would prefer to check behind as a general rule, not to invest more money into the hand we are not likely to win.

However, I heard an argument that IP we can c-bet almost anything into one opponent, given that he is not extremely loose.

What is your plan for playing such spots? We missed, drawy board, IP, it checked to us.

This is a perfect spot that requires some information on villain.

As a general rule I would not cbet these boards with little equity into unknown players, aggressive players, calling stations.

While BB called here preflop he also has a ton of hands that didn't hit.

As a homework for you (additional homework) open equilab, type in a range you think BB has called with, type in our hand, type in the board, hit evaluate and then see his range distribution. Do you still think he has hit this board well?

Question 2: Evaluate one of the hands submitted by other members.
With great pleasure! Here you go: link, link, and link. ...aaand link, link for example. That will do.

Well done. Keep it up.

Question 3: You are on the flop with K Q :diamond:. The board cards are J :spade:, 9 :club:, 8 :heart:, and your opponent holds 7 7 :heart:. What is your equity in this spot?
If we were to decide push or fold, I would fold. We have 10 clean outs, it gives us like 44% to complete a winning hand (unless our opponent improves), so, considering this, I would imagine our equity to be around 40%.

The answer is 41.4%. Not bad. I don't really know, however, did I estimate it right or I was just lucky. Could you please tell me whether or not it's possible to estimate the equity like I do?

PS: Bogdan, I realized the confusion with the 3rd homework. I just copy-pasted the question and didn't notice that the suits have not been copied. Sorry about that. Of course it changes a lot I'll be doing it properly from now on.

While playing you can estimate your equity with the rule of 2 and 4. 2 for one street and 4 for both streets.

So 10 outs would mean that we have roughly 40% equity if we see both turn and river and 20% if we see just the flop.

No worries about homework 3. Glad you found the mistake.

Originally posted by BogdanPS
This is a perfect spot that requires some information on villain.

As a general rule I would not cbet these boards with little equity into unknown players, aggressive players, calling stations.

While BB called here preflop he also has a ton of hands that didn't hit.

As a homework for you (additional homework) open equilab, type in a range you think BB has called with, type in our hand, type in the board, hit evaluate and then see his range distribution. Do you still think he has hit this board well?

It's hard. I mean, it would make sense to calculate all the combinations he could call with preflop, and then compare them with the combinations he would check/call, check/raise flop.

Why is it hard, because his cold-calling range is huge.

I gave him: 22-JJ, A2s-AJs, 45s-JQs and got like 29% equity myself, which doesn't really tell me much.

I think he would check-call with overpairs, A5/A7, 6x, 45, 78, maybe Adx, and obviously every FD (although I'm not planning to give him brilliant pot odds, no one gives a damn at NL2).

It seems like heaps. Not to mention that some villains tend to call the flop c-bet with just about anything, because they are sure that I didn't hit much as well (or so it seems to me). That will be enough to make my 2/3 pot c-bet a waste of money.

Originally posted by Th334

Originally posted by BogdanPS
This is a perfect spot that requires some information on villain.

As a general rule I would not cbet these boards with little equity into unknown players, aggressive players, calling stations.

While BB called here preflop he also has a ton of hands that didn't hit.

As a homework for you (additional homework) open equilab, type in a range you think BB has called with, type in our hand, type in the board, hit evaluate and then see his range distribution. Do you still think he has hit this board well?

It's hard. I mean, it would make sense to calculate all the combinations he could call with preflop, and then compare them with the combinations he would check/call, check/raise flop.

Why is it hard, because his cold-calling range is huge.

I gave him: 22-JJ, A2s-AJs, 45s-JQs and got like 29% equity myself, which doesn't really tell me much.

I think he would check-call with overpairs, A5/A7, 6x, 45, 78, maybe Adx, and obviously every FD (although I'm not planning to give him brilliant pot odds, no one gives a damn at NL2).

It seems like heaps. Not to mention that some villains tend to call the flop c-bet with just about anything, because they are sure that I didn't hit much as well (or so it seems to me). That will be enough to make my 2/3 pot c-bet a waste of money.

Yeh, that's the idea. On these boards we are fine going for a delayed cbet and if villain checks the turn again we can almost always take it away with one bet.

HOMEWORK FIVE

Question 1: Post a hand for evaluation where you have based your decisions on the stats of your opponents.
Aw, I've just actually posted a hand where I played in 3bet pot with a very tight player link.

Question 2: Evaluate one of the hands submitted by other members.
Here you go, link, link, link.

Question 3: Consider the following situation:

$10 NL Hold'em (7-handed)

Stacks & Stats:
UTG ($10)
MP ($8)
MP2 ($9)
CO ($10)
Hero($10)
SB ($10) (17/13/2.6/24/1212) [VPIP/PFR/AF/WTS/Hands]
BB ($10) (27/9/2.0/29/333) [VPIP/PFR/AF/WTS/Hands]

Preflop: Hero is BU with 6 :diamond:, 7
4 folds, Hero raises to $0.40, SB calls $0.40, BB calls $0.40

Flop: ($1.20) 3 , 3 , T (3 players)
SB checks, BB checks, Hero checks

Turn: ($1.20) J (3 players)
SB bets $1.00, BB calls $1.00, Hero...

What action would you take, and why?

Hm. First off I would cbet that flop, and if I'm called, it would give much more information that I have at this spot. Now his donk might be a bluff, and the second guy might call with JT, we don't know. I can't see why we didn't semi-bluff IP here with a strong draw.

His bet looks like he was going to check/raise with a full house, and he got quite disappointed that we didn't cbet Although I might be paranoid a bit, but I don't think that this guys would bluff in two opponents on a flush board almost a pot size. He's not overly aggressive, and his range consists mainly of higher flushes, full houses, or small pocket pairs that he won't bluff with.

If the pot was smaller, I would go for a raise/fold. Here, we just would be pot-committed, and I'm not really confident to ship it in two opponents.

I can't choose between mucking it here, or calling and watching what they do on the river...and most likely mucking it there

To avoid unnecessary spewing of money, I just muck it right here. [It was very difficult for me, because I would never get into such situation, where I checked behind the flop]

Question 4: Consider the following situation:

$10 NL Hold'em (8-handed)

Stacks & Stats
UTG ($8)
MP ($10)
MP2 ($9)
MP3 ($6)
Hero ($10)
BU ($10) (25/21/3.8/26/1250) [VPIP/PFR/AF/WTS/Hands]
SB ($10)
BB ($10)

Preflop: Hero is CO with J , J
4 folds, Hero raises to $0.40, BU 3-bets to $1.30, 2 folds, Hero calls $1.30

Flop: ($2.75) 6 , 9 , T (2 players)
Hero...

What action would you take, and why?

I would check/ship it He will almost always cbet, and we are generally ahead of his range (funny how you didn't give me his 3bet stat). We don't want to see overcards on the turn, that's why I don't like check/calling. Of course we could donk ourselves, I just feel that we would get higher EV in case he completely missed the flop by check/shoving.

In case he checks behind, I assume he hit nothing on the flop and re-evaluate the turn. If the turn brings no Q+, I just bet it and ship on a raise.

If a Q+ came out, I do the same but fold on a raise.

If we donked and got raised on the flop, it would be quite close. I think we would need a 3bet stat here for shipping. That's another reason why I prefer check/raising. We can even make some paranoid queens fold here from time to time I would imagine (representing 78, KK or a set), they should be really paranoid though.

Although it might be a bit loose for FR, we are still in a blind defense mode, so I still would think I have the best hand often enough for a shove.

Hi Bogdan,

I came up with a question for this week.

Broadway cards. I think it's my biggest gap preflop.

How do we play them? Currently, I'm mostly isolating fish with them, but I have a few other ideas.

Let's consider two options:

(a) We cold-call when

• We are IP
• We expect the villain to open-raise quite loose
• Our hand (e.g. AJ, KQ) will often dominate his range
• If we 3-betted, we would isolate ourselves against the hands that dominate us. It would be quite a waste of a good hand.

(b) In contrast, we rarely 3-bet broadway cards, other than for value against really loose players. It's better to 3-bet with suited connectors and aces given FE, because in case we are called, our hand has a higher playability.

So in essence, with AT-AJ, KJ-KQ, QJ:

• We call a player who opens loose (what we are calling with depends on how loose he is)
• We muck it against a tight player, and we tend to 3-bet him either with AQ+, or with deceptive hands given FE.

Why I'm asking is because in the Beginner Course coaching podcast, it was argued that with broadways like KJ it's often better to 3-bet than to cold-call.

What am I missing? What would you recommend? Thanks.

Best regards,

German

On the final note, I think that we are doing not bad. I'm not sure whether it's me not completely hopeless, or I'm hopeless and you're just doing a good job

Anyways, here we go, first 7.4k hands look like this. Not particularly lucky, but that's not what we want here.

My stats are:

VPIP: 25.8 | PFR: 22.0 | 3bet: 9.39 | AF: 3.84 (Ag%: 44.1) | WTSD: 25.2 | W$SD: 44.1

The only thing that concerns me is W$SD. I think it reflects my not perfect hand reading skill, which I hope I've improved recently.

I know that it's all kinda loose a bit, but it's just because I tend to play with fish that loves to limp/fold.

Why dont you always play like at hands from 1600 to 2000? :f_biggrin:

Good luck mate, you are doing fine job ♠_biggrin:

Originally posted by Alan883
Why dont you always play like at hands from 1600 to 2000? :f_biggrin:

Good luck mate, you are doing fine job ♠_biggrin:

Yeah, would be awesome

Cheers, mate.