Copied with permission from myself from fasterthanawalk.wordpress.com
After only 18 years of living in Bangalore, it was finally decided for me, that it was time to visit the Bangalore Palace. It was quite a wonder really, after so many trips to the ‘Palace grounds’, for concerts and even that excuse for a Fun world, that I had never visited the actual Palace. Wikitravel was no help, categorizing the place as a tourist trap to avoid, and a quick survey of Bangaloreans around me revealed my niggling doubts: No one had been there. We set out to find out why!
The place opens at 10:30 am Monday through Saturday, and stays open till 5. We headed out before the Saturday madness hit Bangalore, and reached the grounds by noon. The grounds are extensive and well maintained and an utter pleasure to drive through. We shared the road with colonial era horse carriages, and are drawn towards the centre of the grounds, where the Palace stands.
The Palace itself is a sprawling, ivy covered castle, built in the Tudor style, with fortified battlements and turrets. But an unfortunate air of disrepair and neglect seems to filter through the place. Dozens of horse drawn buggies line the front of the structure, giving the whole place a very fairy tale feel. Only two of the carriages are horsed and in working order, put to the task of ferrying tourists around the castle for a fee.
A step inside the entrance quickly reveals the reason for its tourist trap status. Entry fee for the Palace is Rs 225 for Indians, and Rs 500 for the Phoren. Even if that was forgivable, a ridiculous Rs. 625 is charged for bringing cameras in! Hence this post shall contain no pictures of the Palace, which is a very sad loss indeed. But a consolation is that the entry fee includes an excellent audio guide which is pretty extensive.
The audio guide takes you across a ballroom that is highly reminiscent of the debutante balls from Jane Austen. The room itself can be rented out for occasions for a reasonable fee of Rs 360,000 for an evening (Food, drink not included in price, obviously) Passing an elephant head in the main entrance way (someone had to mention the Elephant in the room. The cruelty of our predecessors was breathtaking), we are led upstairs to the Darbar Hall. The audio guide speaks volumes about the coat of arms presented to the royal family by the British, the mythical Ganda Berunda, a two headed eagle, and flanked by animals with bodies of lions and heads of elephants (as seen on the side of every KSRTC Bus)
Further on are the chambers of the menfolk, replete with depressing photographs of hunts and trophies of the fallen. One remarkable, although nonfunctional, item on display is a chair meant for weighing of Jockeys. (Photographs conspicuously absent, due to the regressive tourism policies of His Highness). The women’s chambers, for the ones who prefer less violent trophies, are a welcome change. Funnily enough, the audio guide seems to completely overlook the fine artwork on display in these chambers. The tour ends on a pretty lame note among the offices that keep the affairs of the palace running, which included a souvenir shop for fine silks in the style of the Raj.
Outside the palace, the grounds are extensive and somewhat maintained. Trying to find a moment of peace is hard, as the security guards are hell bent upon shooing you away. We took the overpriced, tourist trappy buggy ride anyway, Royal horses need to eat too. He takes you on a half-hearted path around the grounds and tries to sell you a longer ride.
But what strikes you most is what isn’t there: the crowds that this place deserves! Right now, it totally deserves the tourist trap tag it has been given, but this need not be so at all. Fixing the ridiculous entrance prices might pay itself very quickly indeed, if more people can be attracted to the Palace. Getting rid of that hilarious 625 Rupee camera charge might actually do the marketing this place so badly deserves, and for free, too! And every destination of this caliber deserves an expensive souvenir shop and fancy restaurant, tourism ABC really.
This place is a gem, hidden away perhaps by a few layers of bureaucracy and Royal ineptitude, legal disputes and a whole lot of neglect. But a gem nevertheless.