Standard Lines: How to Play in Unraised Pots

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As a TAG, you will nearly always want to enter the pot with a raise. Nevertheless, you will still end up in unraised pots, since there are players who open limp and over limp, even in higher limits. You could get a freeplay in the Big Blind or complete from the Small Blind. There are also times when it can be profitable to over limp after 2 other players have also called.

This subject was introduced in an article in the Bronze section about Standard lines. The standard line in an unraised pot HU is to always bet the flop regardless of the board, then depending on your hand, either give up or bet again on the turn.

The reason for this autobet is that a bluff only needs to be successful in about 1/3 of the cases in order to be profitable (The exact percentage depends on whether or not the SB folds before the flop and, if so, the blind structure of the game). You can expect to generate fold equity with a raise, since your opponent is more likely to have missed the flop than to have hit.

This standard line is useful and +EV in many situations, but it can still be perfected. Our goal is not only to make +EV decisions, but to make the decisions that give us the highest EV. In order to optimize your game in unraised pots, you need to be able to recognize the situations in which a standard line is not the best option.

In this article, we will discuss all lines that can be played in unraised pots. You will learn to select the line with the highest EV given the opponent, the board and the strength of your hand. We will also discuss the importance of balancing your lines, so that your opponent cannot easily guess your hand's strength.

How do you play heads up?

Since you will not be open limping (with the exception of playing against a passive fish), you will only find yourself in unraised pots HU when you are in the BB. Depending on whether the limper is between the positions UTG and BU, or whether he is the SB, you might find yourself out of position (OOP) or in position (IP).

You are heads up out of position

The autobet OOP, as was mentioned, is profitable if the opponent folds in approximately 1 of 3 cases. This may very well happen on average against all opponents, but some opponents are not worried about pot odds and odds and outs; they basically won't fold any hand on the flop. There is no sense in putting money into the pot and rewarding such play.

To get an appropriate read, the Went to Showdown stat is useful. It is limited however, in that it tells us how often they go to showdown after seeing the flop, rather than whether they have a tendency to fold on the flop, turn or the river.

Nevertheless, against opponents with a high WTS, you should be more inclined to play check/fold.

The Pokerace value Fold to Flop Bet gives us a more precise value. However, as with the WTS value, we need a very large sample size before we can make an accurate interpretation of the statistic; it also makes no distinction between raised and unraised pots. An opponent may be weak on the flop in raised pots, but always call in unraised ones.

Just as with WTS, a small Fold to Flop Bet value (e.g. less than 25) is a good reason to choose to play check/fold. Most TAGs will have a value of around 30-35%.

Getting a good table read (how an opponent acts in a given situation) is often even more important than stats (your sample size will often not be large enough).

In addition to assessing the type of opponent you are facing, the board is also an important factor to consider when estimating your fold equity. The more low cards on the board and the more draws it offers, the less likely it is that your opponent will fold, since he will often have overcards. Opponents are more likely to fold on dry boards with a single high card.

• high WTS value
• low Fold to Flop Bet value
• draw heavy board
• low card board

Villain: 40/10/1.5/45 (VP$IP / PFR / AF / WTS)

Pre-flop: Hero is BB with J 2
UTG calls, Hero checks.

Flop: 3 , 5 , 7 (2,5SB)
Hero checks, UTG bets, Hero folds.

Your opponent will almost always have a gutshot or overcards if he hasn't flopped a pair. He will therefore rarely fold directly, since he will expect to have at least 6 outs. A flop bet generates too little fold equity; you should give the hand up.

Check/raise has to be part of your repertoire if you are also going to play check/fold, simply for balancing purposes. Otherwise your opponent would make a profitable bet every time you check on the flop. He would know that every check results in a fold. At least in theory - in practice, opponents who open limp are not often able to adjust their game and exploit you. Nevertheless, there are still situations where check/raise is the best line on the flop.

There are many opponents who, like many TAGs, autobet after a check on the flop when they are in position. You can exploit this with a check/raise.

If, in fact, an opponent bets his entire range in this situation and then folds hopeless hands to a check/raise, you can check/raise with any two cards profitably on the flop.

Whereas we would probably only get bluffed out of the pot (even if only by a call) if we autobet oop, we will win an even larger pot if the check/raise succeeds; we also run less risk of being bluffed, since check/raises are given more respect than a standard bet, which can quite easily be seen as an autobet. A C/R as a semi-bluff can be a great move against opponents aggressive enough to make an autobet, but not so overly aggressive as to re-bluff a C/R.

What kind of board is suitable for a C/R? The best boards are those on which opponents are not likely to have hit a pair or have many outs; it should be dry and showing at least one high card.

Other than bluffs, your main intention with a C/R on the flop is, of course, to create value. We can sum up our two intentions:

• You play C/R in order to win an extra SB from the opponent, either when you use it as a bluff, or when you have made a hand and want to be called down;
• You check the flop, not only to induce a bluff, but also to allow the opponent to make a second best hand on the turn and pay you off. C/R flop can be used against weaker opponents who will not necessarily make a bluff bet.

Since the pot is small, the value of an extra SB on the flop as a bluff, or 2 BBs when the opponent calls you down (maybe he hit the turn?), outweighs the risk of giving away a free card.

If you play C/R on the flop with a made hand, you should usually bet again on the turn, since you are assuming you are the favorite to win.

With bluffs you need to decide, based on the board, whether it is worth making another bet, or if you are better off giving up the hand. If the opponent calls on a board which offers few gutshots and overcard type hands, he won't fold on the turn (he won't call every flop raise, since the pot is so small).

If there are many weak draws and overcard hands possible, you should more be inclined to bet again on the turn; your opponent will often call your check/raise on the flop based on pot odds.

As a (semi-)bluff:

• Opponent autobets when you check to him;
• Opponent is not showdown bound;
• Opponent will rarely have hit the board with his hand range.

With made hands:

• On all boards when opponent autobets;
• On dry boards with a high card, which are unlikely to have been hit and when the opponent is weak.

Villain: 35/13/2.2/36

Pre-flop: Hero is BB with J2
UTG calls, Hero checks.

Flop: Q , 5 , 7 (2,5SB)
Hero checks, UTG bets, Hero raises.

Villain always autobets in unraised pots and this board has most likely missed his hand range. He doesn't go to the showdown often and you can get him out of the hand often enough with a C/R. If he calls the C/R, it's best to give up the hand on the turn, unless a J comes. If he calls a C/R on the flop, he won't usually be willing to let go of his hand on the turn.

Villain: 35/13/2.2/36

Pre-flop: Hero is BB with J2
UTG calls, Hero checks.

Flop: 4 , 6 , J (2,5SB)
Hero checks, UTG bets, Hero raises.

You can check/raise with a made hand, since he always autobets. The free card risk is low; he will only usually have 3 outs here, since he will rarely have 2 overcards or a decent draw.

Villain: 40/10/0.3/35

Pre-flop: Hero is BB with K2
UTG calls, Hero checks.

Flop: K , 7 , 3 (2,5SB)
Hero checks, UTG bets, Hero raises.

This very passive opponent will rarely autobet. Don't play C/R on boards where protection is possible and your opponent might have hit something; you would be giving away value. Nevertheless, you should C/R on this board, since your opponent will usually have missed and will often fold to a flop bet.

Since we can ignore protection given this board and the pot size, you should check with your top pair as a kind of slowplay. Remember, though, that you are not trying to induce a bluff with this check, but rather giving your opponent the chance to make the second best hand on the turn. Should he unexpectedly hit a little something or bluff, you can C/R for value and get at least one extra SB.

Once again, this is a line used to balance your other lines. The 'standard' line with trash is bet flop, check/fold turn, a line you play fairly often. Bet flop, check/raise turn should also be part of your repertoire. This will prevent opponents from being able to float (bluff call) on the flop and then take the pot with a bluff bet every time you check on the turn. This line can also be used to maximize the value of good hands.

Check/raise with initiative is a good line in unraised pots for two reasons:

• It is well balanced (see above);
• Giving away a free card is not so bad, since protection takes the backseat in small pots and it is unlikely that your opponent has a hand at all, meaning you can still profit if he makes the second best hand on the river.

You often get maximum value from trash hands that would have folded to another bet on the turn, and also maximum value from weak made hands that want to call you down.

You can use this line with air (or draws) when you have a good read and know your opponent is capable of making a bluff call, particularly when you assume that he will raise directly on the flop and let you know if he has something. This also counts against moderately aggressive opponents with a low WTS value - they are often able to play bet/fold on the turn with weak made hands. These, however, are exceptions, and as a general rule, you won't generate a great deal of fold equity against opponents when using 'fancy' moves and should only do so with made hands.

This move is especially effective against aggressive opponents, who will perceive your check on the turn as weakness and bet. A moderate WTS value should be a positive sign, assuming your opponent is not to weak, since these opponents often have a playable hand when they look at the turn.

There is also a special opponent type who almost never raises, but will almost always bet if you check to him. These opponents are not betrayed by their AF stat however, since this is calculated by (Bet% + Raise%) / Call%. You can there only identify such opponents by a good table read. 

Although protection is not of great significance in small pots, you should prefer boards which don't allow weak draws and on which your opponent will rarely have many outs against your hand.

As a (semi-)bluff:

• Opponent tends to bluff call;
• Opponent is moderately aggressive with low WTS (weak TAGs).

With made hands:

• Opponent bluff calls;
• Opponent is not weak and has low WTS;
• Opponent is aggressive;
• Board offers few draws.

Villain: 30/15/1.5/32

Pre-flop: Hero is BB with T4
UTG calls, Hero checks.

Flop: J , 7 , 3 (2,5SB)
Hero bets, UTG calls.

Turn: K (2,25BB)
Hero checks, UTG bets, Hero raises

As a rule, this opponent will either raise or fold hands with a king before the flop from UT. His call on the dry flop often indicates a small pair. Given his moderate AF, he will often bet on the turn, but then fold to a raise, given his WTS. The K is a great scare card on the turn, you can represent a hand and make your bet look like a value bet.

Warning: This move can turn a small pot into an expensive pot. It has to work often to be profitable.

Villain: 40/10/3/38

Pre-flop: Hero is BB with K2
UTG calls, Hero checks.

Flop: K , 7 , 3 (2,5SB)
Hero bets, UTG calls.

Turn: 6 (2,25BB)
Hero checks, UTG bets, Hero raises

This opponent is loose, aggressive and likes to go to showdown. He will very often bet in response to a check on the turn and then calldown with any pair; you get maximum value from pairs and air. If your hand is strong enough for a bet/3-bet, it would be better to bet directly on the turn.

This is the standard line for made hands and draws and should be played in most cases. You will usually give up your bluff with trash on the turn. Firing a pure bluff 2nd barrel can be necessary. This is for balancing reasons again - otherwise a turn bet on a dry board would give away your hand's strength.

This is particularly good against the notorious flop-caller who does not have a high WTS value. However, making this read is quite difficult. A clue is the Folded to Turn Bet value in Poker Tracker: if this is high (for instance >35%), it is usually worth investing a bet on the turn.

A low Went to Showdown with moderate aggression speaks in favor of a 2nd barrel. These opponents will often raise their good hands on the flop.

You should bet again on a high turn card after having bluffed on a flop that allowed a lot of overcards and gutshot draws. These flops tend to produce loose calls from hands that fold to a high turn card.

As a bluff:

• Opponent calls loosely on the flop;
• Opponent has high Fold to Turn Bet value;
• Opponent is aggressive and has a low WTS value;
• Low flop with a high turn card.

Villain: 30/15/1.5/37

Pre-flop: Hero is BB with T8
UTG calls, Hero checks.

Flop: 4 , 7 , 3 (2,5SB)
Hero bets, UTG calls.

Turn: K (2,25BB)
Hero bets

The opponent will call on this flop with a wide range and he will often have a gutshot or overcards. You should fire your second barrel on the turn, since he will have to fold a lot of these hands to the king.

This is a good line to use with marginal made hands. Since you'll often play check/fold in this spot on the turn, you have a good chance of inducing a bluff bet from hands which would have folded to a 2nd barrel. You also avoid facing a raise and a difficult decision: you don't want to invest an additional 2 BBs in such a small pot, nor do you want to fold the best hand.

Since protection takes the backseat, you can use this line with at least middle pair, even when opponents may have many outs against your hand (although a dry board is preferable).

The target opponent should be as aggressive as possible. He should bet for value with weak hands when checked to, or bluff with nothing at all.

Don't play this like when you could clearly bet for value on the turn and on the river. You should also only play this line when you think you have a good chance of inducing a bluff. Don't check because you are afraid of being raised, since you will often miss up the chance to make a value bet on the turn. If these conditions are not met, then bet/fold (against passive players) or bet/calldown (when the opponent is very aggressive) are often better choices.

When you play check/call on the turn with initiative and are unimproved on the river, you should decide between check/call and check/fold based on the river card and the likelihood that your opponent will bluff.

With marginal made hands

• You do not have a clear second value bet;
• You would be in a tough spot if you were raised;
• Opponent is aggressive (induce the bluff) and makes hard value bets;
• Opponent tends to bluff call.

Villain: 50/10/2/35

Pre-flop: Hero is BB with 83
UTG calls, Hero checks.

Flop: 8, 2 , J (2,5SB)
Hero bets, UTG calls.

Turn: A (2,25BB)
Hero checks, UTG bets, Hero calls.

The opponent is loose and aggressive - he can call the flop with many hands. Given this turn card, it's less likely that a worse hand will call you a second time and you'll have to make a hard decision if you get raised, since it could be a bluff and you have a low flush draw. The A is a good scare card and might tempt your opponent into bluffing. The advantages outweigh the risk of giving away a free card to a drawing hand.

Choosing to call down on the flop can be the best decision in some situations, especially when weaker hands will hardly have any outs and when your opponent is likely to have missed the board (and tends to bluff).

You can be sure he has missed on a lot of boards, depending on his limping range. You will often gain little by betting with a higher pair: you want to give the opponent the chance to bluff, or to make the second best hand.

This line is better than C/R on the flop when there are few weaker hands, which, given the board and opponent's range, would call down a C/R. You should also assume that you cannot make a better hand fold when playing this line.

You should only bet in such situations when your opponent is extremely showdown bound, especially when you expect him to call down with high cards. Another possibility with strong made hands in similar situations is to play check/call flop with the intention of making a C/R on the turn or river.

Should the opponent check behind on the flop, you should check again on the turn to give him an additional chance to bluff. Many opponents will no be able to resist temptation twice.

With made hands:

• Opponent will usually have very few outs against you;
• Opponent will often fold to a bet;
• Opponent tends to bluff;
• The board is dry and your opponent is not likely to have hit with his limping range.

Villain: 40/20/2,6/36

Pre-flop: Hero is BB with 2Q
MP calls, Hero checks.

Flop: 3, Q , A (2,5SB)
Hero checks, MP bets, Hero calls.

Turn: 6 (2,25BB)
Hero checks, MP bets, Hero calls.

River: 9 (4,25BB)
Hero checks, MP bets, Hero calls.

The opponent will raise pocket pairs and A high hands before the flop, and fold any hand with a 3. Therefore, he has most likely missed the board. Given his WTS, he'll often fold directly to a bet, which is not what you want, since he has very few outs against you. You should call down and hope you can induce a bluff. This will also limit the amount you lose when he does have a better hand.

You are heads up in position

Since you will almost never open limp as a TAG (the exception being in the SB against a passive BB), this situation will only occur when you are in the BB and the SB completes.

The standard line with made hands is call flop, raise turn. This is good in an unraised pot, since your opponent will often have worthless hand and would fold to any raise. Wait for the turn or river before you start raising.

When you are in an unraised pot IP and confronted with a bet, you're frequently up against a bluff (you would do the same).

Considering this, the optimal way to play draws and air presents itself. When you have a hand without any showdown value, you want to find the most cost effective way to bluff. Pick spots in which the generated fold equity is in the best relationship to the ratio of your bet size : pot.

You would invest 2.5 BBs to win a small pot by playing call flop, raise turn. You cannot assume that the opponent will bet the turn 100% of the time after betting the flop in an unraised pot. A second bet can mean he has a strong hand. Call flop, raise turn has a bad cost/FE ratio; you can often just raise the flop with air or draws.

You should, of course, also play this line with made hands every now and then to keep your lines balanced.

You can estimate the probability of an opponent's bet being a bluff by comparing his limping range to the board. You can attack on the flop when he is unlikely to have hit anything.

Your play on the turn will then depend on the board. If the flop was dry and contained a high card, the opponent will rarely fold on the turn after having called on the flop, since he'll almost always have a pair. You can then check behind with hands that have outs against his pair. Your move is a combination of a bluff, which generates fold equity on the flop, and a free card raise that gives you the option of seeing a free river.

You should naturally bluff again when you think your opponent will want to see another card, which is often the case when gutshots and overcards are possible.

Another way to bluff is to float on the flop (bluff call) and bet the turn if the opponent checks. You should only choose this play over a flop raise, however, if you know your opponent rarely fires a 2nd barrel on the turn.

With air/draws:

• Opponent is often bluffing (autobet);
• He is likely to have missed the board with his open limping range.

Villain: 40/20/1.5/36

Pre-flop: Hero is BB with 45
SB calls, Hero checks.

Flop: 3, K , A (2SB)
SB bets, Hero raises, SB calls.

Turn: K (3BB)
SB checks, Hero checks.

Given the opponent's PFR, he'll usually raise with an A or a K before the flop; he is most likely bluffing on this flop. You will often get him to fold with a raise.

You will rarely bluff him off his hand on the turn if he does call, even with his very low WTS, and should check behind on the turn. Take the free card, you have 4 outs for a gutshot.

Villain: 40/20/1.5/36

Pre-flop: Hero is BB with 34
SB calls, Hero checks.

Flop: 6, 8 , J (2SB)
SB bets, Hero raises, SB calls.

Turn: K (3BB)
SB checks, Hero bets.

You don't need to generate as much fold equity with a strong draw as with a pure bluff. There's no need to wait for the turn in an unraised pot, since you generate plenty of fold equity on the flop. Even if he calls on the flop, you may very well get him to fold on the turn. He could have called with a wide range of weak draws and live cards - fire again.

Sometimes you don't even have to raise the flop in order to bluff. When you think the opponent is capable of making a pure bluff on the flop, but is likely to give it up on the turn, you can call the flop with any two with the intention of betting the turn if he checks. If he bets again, however, you should give up your hand.

You can't make this read with stats alone, you will need a to make a good table read (Use notes!).

Just as with bluff raises on the flop, this line should be used when your opponent is likely to have missed the board with his completing range. The advantage is that the cost, on average, is lower than that of a bluff raise, since you invest just one SB on the flop and almost never lose the 1 BB invested on the turn, since your opponent will almost always fold to your turn bet.

With air/draws:

• Opponent is often making a pure bluff (autobetting), and will likely give up on the turn;
• He is likely to have missed the board with his limping range.

Villain: 28/14/2/35

Pre-flop: Hero is BB with 46
SB calls, Hero checks.

Flop: 3, 8, A (2SB)
SB bets, Hero calls.

Turn: 3 (2BB)
SB checks, Hero bets

You can use this line in such a situation, assuming you have a good read and know your opponent will not fire a 2nd barrel with nothing. Chances are he will most likely check/fold on the turn, since he is likely to have missed the flop.

Quite often, many opponents, including TAGs, will either bet in an unraised pot, or play check/fold. If you think you are playing an opponent who isn't capable of playing either check/call or check/raise in an unraised pot, you can slowplay with good made hands in the hope that he will either bluff or improve to a second best hand on the turn. This is particularly useful on dry boards when you hit a high pair, since your hand is less vulnerable and you can afford to give away free cards.

The small size of an unraised pot is the main reason to wait with raises and slowplay at first. Inducing a bluff is more important than protection. You can even wait for the river before you bet yourself if your opponent bets the turn if you think he might be bluffing with nothing. This is probably the case when the turn card was not likely to have helped him much.

Most opponents won't fold when they hit something on the turn, even if your line does look suspicious and reeks of slowplay.

With good made hands:

• The opponent often makes a pure bluff (making an autobet after your check on the flop);
• He is unlikely to have hit the board with his limping range.

Villain: 30/13/1.8/35

Pre-flop: Hero is BB with Q7
SB calls, Hero checks.

Flop: 3, Q , 7 (2SB)
SB checks, Hero checks.

Turn: J (1BB)
SB bets, Hero raises

The opponent will usually bet every pair and rarely play check/raise. Since you have two pair, it is unlikely the opponent has hit anything. He rarely has a hand which he will play check/call or check/raise with. Since you do not need to protect, you can check behind on the flop and hope that the opponent hits something or attempts a bluff. You should raise on the turn, since he could very well have hit a pair or a draw. You could wait for the river to raise if a blank had shown up. He could easily be on a bluff, and there's no reason not to allow him to continue.

Calling down is better in position than out, since you have full control of the hand and do not have to risk giving away value or free cards. The reason for this line is the same as in the section on making a calldown when OOP. You are in a way ahead/way behind scenario, the only difference is that you aren't so worried about your opponent's outs, since you are playing for a small pot.

With made hands:

• Opponent usually has few outs against you;
• The opponent will fold weaker hands and call with better hands;
• The board is dry and your opponent is not likely to have hit.

Pre-flop: Hero is BB with K2
SB calls, Hero checks.

Flop: A, K , 5 (2SB)
SB bets, Hero calls down.

Your opponent will rarely have any outs against you and would simply fold to any raise. Give him the chance to bluff and call down.

How do you play in a 3-handed pot?

You will often find yourself in a 3-handed unraised pot. This situation occurs when you are in the BB and 2 other opponents limp, or when you complete from the SB after another player limps. You will always be first or second to act on the flop.

With made hands and draws you should usually bet. You are usually ahead with a pair when no one raised before the flop. You should only give up your hand if you are out of position with bottom pair and now kicker on a board that your opponents could easily have hit.

You should bet with every hand with showdown value if at least one opponent has already checked to you. You could even do so with A or K high, as long as you can assume to have the best hand given the board and your opponent's range.

In a 3-handed pot an autobet with air is most often not appropriate. Although we need less equity (only >25% in order for it to be +EV) due to the larger pot; the chances are too low for us to win the pot directly against two opponents. A bluff bet in an unraised pot is only profitable under the following circumstances:

A bluff against two opponents can be profitable when: 1) they are not showdown bound, 2) they are not likely to have hit the board, and 3) few hands could have many outs against you. Dry boards with low and high cards are suitable. Although this move may be used OOP, your fold equity is much higher if one of the opponents has already checked, since they would have most likely bet if they had a hand. This applies to all aggressive opponents without high WTS values, e.g. TAGs. You basically only have one opponent to force out of the pot.

With made hands and draws:

• In general: Every pair and strong draw can be bet regardless of the board and opponents;
• In general: High card hands when you are often ahead.

With air:

• Opponents have low WTS;
• Board will have often been missed;
• An opponent, who usually doesn't have a playable hand when he doesn't bet himself, has already checked.

Pre-flop: Hero is BB with 6A
MP calls, SB calls, Hero checks.

Flop: 2, 3 , 8 (3SB)
SB checks, Hero bets

You are the favorite on this board, even though you haven't hit anything. The limpers have all probably missed. Bet the flop to protect your hand (or to take it down directly).

SB: TAG
MP: unknown

Pre-flop: Hero is BB with 23
MP calls, SB calls, Hero checks.

Flop: 4, 7 , K (3SB)
SB checks, Hero bets

A TAG will almost always fold to a bet after checking the flop. MP is the only opponent you need to force out of the hand. He is likely to have missed the board and will rarely have an overcard or a draw. You can expect to generate at least 25% fold equity, which is enough for a bluff.

C/R on a 3-handed flop can be the right line when you have the right read - this is the case when you think there is a good chance that the last opponent to act will bet. Many players will bet 100% of the time when they are in position and two opponents check to them. They do so mainly because they expect to generate fold equity with a bet. You can use this against them.

When you have this read, or if the opponent is aggressive in general, you can C/R with made hands, and occasionally with draws or even air. Only do this with a made hand when you can afford to give away a free card, i.e. when you have a high pair on a dry board. You may even win another 2-3 BBs if your opponent hits the 2nd best hand on the turn.

You can even bluff on boards your opponent is not likely to have hit. You win 1 SB more than if you had bet yourself and reduce the chance of getting re-bluffed. Raising a bet is a lot eaiser than bluff 3-betting a C/R. Few players have the courage to make such a move. Generally, however, you must consider that the pot is larger in a 3-handed pot, and that two opponents have outs against you. A free card could do a lot of damage; be careful not to do anything detrimental to yourself.

With made hands:

• The opponent in position will often bet;
• The board offers few draws and there are few overcard hands.

With air:

• The opponent who has already checked and will most likely fold to a bet;
• The opponent in position will often bet and does not frequently go to showdown;
• The limper is likely to have missed the board.

MP: 35, 18, 2, 35
SB: TAG

Pre-flop: Hero is BB with 7Q
MP calls, SB calls, Hero checks.

Flop:2, 5, Q (3SB)
SB checks, Hero checks, MP bets, SB folds, Hero raises

The TAG will usually bet when he has a pair. MP is aggressive and will very often bet if you check to him. You can collect an additional bet by check/raising for value. If you think the TAG hit a low or middle pair, bet/3-bet would be the better line. Your hand is strong enough for it.

Pre-flop: Hero is BB with 89
MP calls, SB calls, Hero checks.

Flop: 2, 6, K (3SB)
SB checks, Hero checks, MP bets, SB folds, Hero raises

The limping range of MP rarely includes Kings or 2s, so he often has nothing. You could bluff in this situation, or check/raise the flop, since MP will often bet. A raise shows more strength than a bet and lowers the chance of facing a re-bluff. You also win one more SB from trash hands.

Conclusion

In addition to the standard moves, there are many alternative lines which have higher expected value under certain conditions - making accurate reads and analyzing your history with the players are an important part of the decision making process. You also have to know what you want to achieve with your hand in the given situation.

The differences when playing in an unraised pot: 1) The pot is smaller. This makes inducing bluffs more important than protection. 2) Opponents are more likely to bluff, which makes re-bluffing possible. With the help of this article you can perfect your game in unraised pots and choose the best line in each given situation.

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