Check/Raise River With Initiative

Introduction

In this article

• Check/raise on the river with initiative as a value line
  
• Purpose and use of this line
  
• Suitable cards and opponents
  

A lot of hands you play as a TAG unfold along a similar scheme: raise pre-flop, bet flop, bet turn. Due to this Fixed Betting Sequence (a betting sequence that is played the same, disregarding the board, your hand or the opponent), you will often find yourself on the river with a weak hand and initiative.

The problem out of position

You often have no other choice but checking on the river, even though you have initiative, simply because your hand is too weak for a value bet, but too strong for a bluff (A high, for example). This check is either a check/fold, or a check/call (when you think your opponent is bluffing). This boils down to the fact that your opponent may decide to bet if you check the river with initiative, either as value bet against A high, or as a bluff.

A check on the river that always plays out as check/fold or check/call is poorly balanced and an indicator of a weak hand. Your opponent can exploit such a leak by making thin value bets, or by bluffing in the right spots.

Theoretically, check/raise river with initiative should be in your repertoire. Aside from the direct extra value you can generate, this will force your opponents to refrain from making thin value bets against you in the future, which can save you money in a lot of situations.

When can you check/raise the river for value with initiative?

Check/raise with initiative is an alternative to value betting. You hope to gain one more BB with this move. It will work when your opponent then plays bet/call or bet/fold.

The obvious danger is that your opponent will check behind with a hand that he would have called a bet with, and you miss out on value.

You should therefore use this line when you believe there are more hands that the opponent would bet with if you check, but fold or only call a raise with, than he would both call a bet with and bet with himself if you check.

Even though this sentence might sound complicated, it's important to understand what it means: In order to assess whether a check/raise with initiative has a higher EV than a bet, you have to precisely analyze your opponent's hand range on the river and make assumptions about how he will play the hand.

Against which range is a river bet the best option?

You should first determine the hand ranges against which a bet is the best course of action. For a bet to be preferable to a check-raise, contrary to the previous statement, an opponent’s hand range should contain as many hands as possible, which encourage them to call bets, but not make their own bets, if you check.

If he has one of these hands, you miss out on a value bet with your check and win 1 BB less.

Such hands fulfill the following conditions (from the point of view of the opponent):

• They are strong enough to call a bet with, as he will sometimes be ahead against your range.
• They are too weak to bet for value with, as there are too few weak hands you would call with.
• They are too strong to bluff bet with, as you wouldn't fold a better hand.

These conditions are met by weak hands with showdown value. Depending on the board and the action, this could be Q high to A high, or small pairs (especially on scary boards).

If the course of action so far makes these hands probable, you should bet and NOT try to check/raise.

A high is usually an easy read to make. Aggressive opponents in particular would mostly raise any pair and any draw. If they just call up to the river, there is a good chance that they such a hand.

Even if the opponent already raised pre-flop and stayed passive post-flop, chances are good he's on a hand with showdown value and would call your bet (but would take the chance for a free showdown if you gave it to him).

BU: LAG

Pre-flop: Hero is SB with AA
BU raises, Hero 3-bets, 1 fold, BU calls.

Flop:(7 SB) 8, 4, 3

Hero bets, BU calls.

Turn:(4.5 BB) 4

Hero bets, BU calls.

River:(6.5 BB) 5
Hero?

You bet! Your opponent is aggressive and would usually raise any pair and many draws on this low board. You didn't show too much strength before the flop in this BU vs SB situation, so he might think a bluff could work.

His range is almost entirely made up of K high and A high hands. He will check behind on the river, since he can't expect to force a stronger hand to fold, nor can he expect a weaker hand to call. However, since he is ahead against some hands in your range and getting decent pot odds, he will (normally correctly) call with A high on the river.

UTG = TAG

Pre-flop: Hero is BB with TJ
UTG raises, 4 folds, Hero calls.

Flop:(4,5 SB) T, 8, 3
Hero checks, UTG bets, Hero raises, UTG calls.

Turn:(4.25 BB) 4
Hero bets, UTG calls.

River:(6.25 BB) 3
Hero bets!

This is also a very bad spot for a check/raise with initiative, as the opponent's range is almost entirely made up of weak hands with showdown value. He raised from UTG and knows that you can check/raise a lot of draws on this board. He will call with most of the hands in his range on the river, since no draw could have completed. He will hardly ever bet by himself, though.

From the opponent's point of view, a value bet rarely makes sense in this spot, as there are hardly any hands in your range that you would play check/call on the river with. A smart opponent will know that your check is either giving up a busted draw/bluff, or a trick (check/raise).

Against which range is check/raise a better option?

So far we've only seen examples of poor situations for check/raising with initiative. Against which hand range is check/raise a better option?

The range has to be composed mostly of cards in one of these two categories:

• Hands without any showdown value that would fold to a bet
• Hands with enough showdown value for a value bet

Usually, these are draws that weren't completed. They would never call a bet, but they could decide to bluff if you check. You don't risk losing value, but you do have the opportunity to get one additional bet from them by inducing a bluff.

These are hands are often small or middle pairs with which your opponent is on calling down. You might get him to make a value bet if you can make him think you have a weak hand with showdown value (like A high) by checking.

He will probably call if you bet, but it is also likely that he will bet for value and call a reraise if you let him.

You risk winning one bet less if he checks behind, but you will almost always win one additional bet when he bets for value; he will hardly ever play bet/fold with a pair in such a situation, since the pot will be of substantial size.

A psychological aspect comes into play: playing a strange line such as check/raise with initiative on river leads opponents into thinking that you are bluffing and making "curiosity" calls to see what you might have. Sometimes they won't believe you and sometimes they will feel provoked and make a tilt 3-bet, which only increases your winnings.

In this case, you don't induce a bluff, but rather a value bet from weaker hands with your check.

Some times your opponent's hand range will be almost entirely made up of hands from one of these two categories, other times it might contain hands from both of these categories and you will see a range polarized between busted draws and pairs.

That would be your best case scenario: either your opponent has a busted draw and you can induce a bluff by checking, or he has a pair and will bet for value. In any case, check/raise promises more value for your hand.

But how do you know which range he really has? In order to know this, you have to analyze his range based on the previous actions in the hand and the information you have on your opponent. For instance, if the opponent has a good to above average PFR and limped pre-flop first-in, you can pretty much exclude A high from his range.

You have to combine the information and reads you have on your opponent with an analysis of the board in order to decide whether or not he is likely to play small pairs aggressively on the flop and turn, or if a small pair would still be within his range on the river. Ask yourself if it would make sense for him to have just called with a small pair on the flop and turn.

With which hands should you play check/raise with initiative?

Check/raise with initiative should mainly be played for value with made hands.

Theoretically, it should be necessary to balance this line with bluffs, but not balancing a line is only disadvantageous when an opponent can exploit it.

The only way an opponent could exploit a check/raise is by making a tough fold. This will hardly ever happen in practice though, as the pot will always be quite large after your check/raise on the river; he won't really be able to fold a good (or even marginal) made hand.

Balancing lines also becomes less important the further you are in the hand and as the pot grows in size.

This is a line you will rarely use, so there is no real need to balance it. You will rarely play this line more than once against the same opponent.

You should therefore have a hand that beats all hands an opponent could initially play passively and then bet for value on the river with (generally most medium made hands). You need a hand like top pair or better. We have, however, also seen examples of weaker hands playing check/raise for value profitably.

You can, of course, try to play C/R with initiative as a bluff against opponents that make thin value bets and tough folds. However, there is no general guideline for such a move.

If, after all consideration, you come to the conclusion that you are probably up against a small pair or a busted draw, chances for a successful check/raise with initiative are good.

Heads up against a TAG (SB has the button)

Pre-flop: Hero is BB with KQ
SB raises, Hero 3-bets, SB calls.

Flop: (6 SB) T, 8, 6
Hero bets, SB calls.

Turn: (4 BB) K
Hero bets, SB calls.

River: (6 BB) 3
Hero checks, SB bets, Hero raises, SB calls.

In this hand, you are heads up match against a TAG. You are still up against a very wide range of possible hands on the flop. Your opponent can call with any draw or pair on the flop, and raise or call on the turn. A high, overcards and backdoor draws could also stay in the hand.

The call on the turn reduces his range, though. He would have raised with a good hand (K or better) and folded any worthless hand. An underpair is quite likely. Even a T is possible, as he could have had the intention of playing call flop/raise turn and then decided to abort this plan due to the king on the turn.

Draws may still be within his range. He would probably have raised a strong draw as a semi-bluff, but it's also plausible that he didn't want to risk a 3-bet and/or didn't give himself enough fold equity.

Whether he would call A high on the turn depends on his looseness and on how loose your pre-flop 3-bets have been so far.

This means that there are a couple of hands in his range on the river against which a check/raise would work nicely, like the T or the 8. There are, however, also many hands against which you should rather bet for value yourself, as he would call a bet, but check behind otherwise.

Whether you check/raise or bet here depends entirely on the assumptions you make about your opponent's calling range on the turn and his betting range on the river. Let's take a closer look at possible ranges.

Assumption 1: Let's assume your opponent would fold any A high on the turn (maybe he thinks your 3-betting range is tight) and would bet any pair for value. Even if he would never bluff busted draws, you still have an easy decision: check/raise is your best move.

Assumption 2: Now, let's assume A7-AJ are still within his range and he would call a bet with such a hand, but check behind if he got the opportunity.

This range corresponds to 48 combinations (A7, A9, AJ = 3*16 combinations). You would lose 1 BB in value against these hands.

You also assume that he will check behind with a small pocket pair or the 6, but would call a bet. (22, 44, 55, 62s, 64s-67s, 69s, 6Js, 6Qs, 6As, 67o, 69o, 6Jo, 6Qo, 6Ao) = 84 combinations.

Against 84+48 = 132 combinations of the opposing hand range the return of the check/raise attempt would be -1 BB.

We also assume that he would bet any 8 and any T for value, and call any bet with T5o, T7o, T9o, TJo, TQo, T2s, T4s, T5s, T7s, T9s, TJs, TQs, 85o, 87o, 89o, 8Jo, 8Qo, 8Ao, 82s, 84s, 85s, 87s, 8Js, 8Qs, 8As. A total of 138 combinations.

You win 1 BB more against 138 combinations with a check-raise than with a bet. You lose 1 BB more using a check-raise than with a bet against 132 combinations, since your opponent would check behind on the river with these hands.

Additionally, it must be observed, that the opponent with 33, 63s, T3s, 83s has improved to a set or a 2-pair and overtaken you with that. You have to assume, that your opponent will raise a bet with those hands, and 3-bet any check-raise i.e. with a check/raise/call, you’d lose 1 BB more than with a bet/call, so that these hands can be added to the calculation of the EV, rather than those hands which win 1BB more on a bet than with a check-raise. 33, 63s, T3s, 83s make 9 combinations, so there’s a total of 141:138 combinations speaking for the bet.

Nevertheless it’s very close and even small changes in the assumption about the opponent’s range has effects on the better/preferable line.

CO: fish
BU: TAG

Pre-flop: Hero is UTG with AA
Hero raises, CO calls, BU calls, 2 folds.

Flop:(7.5 SB) J, T, 6
Hero bets, CO folds, BU calls.

Turn:(4.75 BB) 2
Hero bets, BU calls.

River:(6.75 BB) J
Hero checks, BU bets, Hero raises, BU calls.

The BU is a TAG, which means making assumptions about his cold calling range is pretty easy. A realistic range is roughly: 22-77, 67s-KQs,
79s-JKs.

After his calls on the turn and the flop, you can remove hands without draws or pairs from his range. At the same time, he can't have the jack or 66/22, as he would have raised strong made hands on the flop or turn. Some TAGs would also raise the flop or turn with a ten, while others would opt for a passive line, since you have shown so much aggression.

It is very possible that your opponent is playing a small pair passively on this board. Draws are easily in his range, too. He won't expect to generate any fold equity on this board against an UTG raise; you could have a gutshot + overcards with a hand like AK or AQ, and would definitely pay to see the river. He also won't know where he stands with his small pocket pair if you raise.

His hand range on the river is sure to include: 33-55,77, 67s, 89s. Some opponents' ranges may also include: 78, Q9s, 88, 56s, KQs, T9s, T8s.

A TAG will hardly ever call or bluff raise the river with a busted draw; there is little sense betting against such a hand. He will rarely bluff when you check to him, but it's the only way you're going to get any money out of him.

You can assume that the TAG will make a crying call with any pair on the river, as he will still be ahead against some hands in your range, with the exception of a tough fold with good reads in case he suspects you would check with AK on the river.??

You would therefore get one BB out of most pairs with a bet. The difference between a check and a bet is marginal when facing a busted draw, as TAGs rarely bluff in such a situation.

How often does your check/raise with initiative have to work in order to have higher EV than a bet? Since you risk getting one less big bet in order to win one more, the move has to be successful 50% of the time!

If the TAG checks 33-55 behind (18 combinations), but bets 56s, 67s, 77 and 88 (18 combinations), the EV of a check/raise is the same as the EV of a bet. If you then assume that you at least have a slight chance at inducing a bluff, a check/raise becomes more profitable than a bet.

A lot of TAGs would probably even bet any pair for value in this example, as they would probably put you on A high after you check; you could then consider playing check/call due to possible busted draws. According to the previous calculations, however, check/raise would clearly be the better line.

Such a decision should be based solely on the direct EV of the situation at hand. Trying this move will also help you in future hands, even if it doesn't work out the way you planned it. Your opponents won't be able to make thin value bets against you if the know you are capable of playing check/raise with initiative on the river, which will save you money in the long run.

Villain: 45, 20, 0.8, 39

Pre-flop: Hero is MP with AA
Hero raises, 2 folds, BU calls, 2 folds.

Flop:(5.5 SB) J, 8, 6
Hero bets, BU calls.

Turn:(3.75 BB) 2
Hero bets, BU calls.

River:(5.75 BB) 2
Hero checks, BU bets, Hero raises, BU calls.

Your opponent would 3-bet any good ace and probably just cold call with a weak ace after you raise from middle position. Probable hands for a cold-call are (suited) connectors and pockets.

He could easily have hit a draw or a pair on this board. 57, 79, 9T, TQ, and 9Q would give him a straight draw; 6x, 8x and 33, 44, 55, 77 are all possible, as well, and there are obviously quite a few hands that would have a flush draw.

Your opponent is not very aggressive; you can't remove any of these hands from his range just because he didn't raise the flop or turn. The jack is probably the only card he would have played aggressively.

If you check the river here, your opponent may think you are giving up a hand like QTs, or that you might be playing check/call with A high. Check/call would, of course, be a good line with A high, which you would indeed play frequently - check/call for bluff induce.

This can lead your opponent to bet with quite a few of the hands in his range - with pairs for value against A high, and possibly busted draws as a bluff. You won't lose value even if you don't induce a pure bluff out of him, since he wouldn't have called had you bet.

MP: weak semi-aggressive (22/14/1.7/35)

Pre-flop: Hero is SB with AK
UTG raises, 3 folds, Hero 3-bets, 1 fold, UTG calls.

Flop:(7 SB) 2, 5, 4
Hero bets, UTG calls.

Turn:(4.5 BB) A
Hero bets, UTG calls.

River:(6.5 BB) 4
Hero checks, UTG bets, Hero raises, UTG calls.

You're up against a passive opponent that usually doesn't have a 5 or 4 in his range, and even if he did, he wouldn't try to bring it to the showdown. You can also assume that he will fold smaller pockets on the turn (which would be correct given your strong range).

After he has called the turn again, you can limit his hand range to two categories: flush draws (67 isn't even in his range) and an ace. He would probably have capped hands like JJ-AA before the flop. He could be playing a flush draw passively; you have shown enough strength for him to be afraid of a 3-bet.

He would also just passively call down his top pair as wa/wb play here, but it's very likely that even this passive opponent would bet for value on the river. He might not often bluff with a busted flush draw, but as he would call it even less often (or never), check/raise with initiative is a nice play here.

Villain TAG

Pre-flop: Hero is SB with KT
Hero raises, BB calls.

Flop:(4 SB) T, Q, 8
Hero bets, BB calls.

Turn:(3 BB) 7
Hero bets, BB calls.

River:(5 BB) 4
Hero checks, BB bets, Hero raises, BB calls.

Here is an example in which you can check/raise with initiative even though you do not have a strong made hand. Your opponent is aggressive and would have raised on the flop or the turn if he had top pair; your 2nd pair 2nd best kicker is just as good as top pair top kicker in such a situation.

There are, however, a lot of pairs left in his range (Tx, 8x, 79, 7J, small pockets), which he would often bet with if you check to him, as your check usually represents a weak hand that would still call a bet.

He might also be holding a busted draw on the river. It can, of course, make sense to play a draw passively and to bluff on the river, as this can make your opponent think you weren't on a draw after all. This means he can expect some fold equity if he bets.

This way of thinking has its merits, as you would indeed give up some hands, not expecting a busted draw in that spot. This mindset is an important asset, especially in the TAG vs TAG game, where 2nd and 3rd level thinking is an important part of the thought process.

Remember, always think about the kind of opponent you are facing and the hands that are within his range, as well as your own relative hand strength and what you are capable of representing with a bet.

What does your opponent think when you check on the river?

Your opponent's hand range must include hands with value bet potential, and he must be convinced that you could call with a weaker hand after checking; he won't bet otherwise, even if he has a strong hand.

Bad players don't really think much as they play, but you have to be aware of the hands you can represent with a check when playing against attentive opponents.

If he doesn't think you might be playing check/call, he won't try any thin value bets.

In some situations, your own range is polarized after the check on the river between hands that you would play C/F with, and hands that you would play C/R with; C/C simply doesn't make sense in some situations. If your opponent knows your playing style and is capable of interpreting the situation correctly, he will always check behind to your check in these spots.

This aspect includes a lot of 2nd level thinking and presupposes good opponents with a good read on you. It's important to adjust, as you will find more and more of these opponents as you make your way up the limits.

In general, spots in which you can represent an A high with a check/call are good. You would often play check/call to induce a bluff with A high when you raised before the flop, but probably missed on a board with several busted draws. A lot of opponents are aware of this and will bet any pair for value, meaning your chances for a successful check/raise with the best hand increase.

Pre-flop: Hero is SB with AK
UTG raises, 3 folds, Hero 3-bets, 1 folds, UTG calls.

Flop:(7 SB) A, 7, 3
Hero bets, BU calls.

Turn:(4.5 BB) 2
Hero bets, BU calls.

River:(6.5 BB) 3
Hero?

This seems to be a great spot for a check/raise with initiative at first glance. This, however, depends on how much attention your opponent has been paying to your lines.

UTG = bad TAG
If you play against an inattentive, bad or aggressive TAG, this spot would be very good for a check/raise with initiative. This opponent almost always has the ace here and is playing it wa/wb. No other hand from his range would make sense, as he doesn't raise 7x UTG and he would have had to fold a small pocket pair.

If you check, he will think you only have a pocket pair yourself and will bet for value; your check/raise will almost always allow you to extract an additional big bet.

UTG = good TAG who collects reads
Good TAGs know your hand range and make assumptions about which hands you will play and how. From your point of view, it wouldn't make sense to check/call a pocket pair, as every worse hand would then check behind, and any better hand would bet.

Your opponent will know that you probably intend to play check/fold, for instance with 88 or KQ, or check/raise with an ace. He might just check behind, even with an ace.

Check/raise versus bet/3-bet

It's better to bet yourself when you have a hand strong enough for a 3-bet, especially if you know your opponent likes to raise on the river. This might be the case when you have a read on the opponent (that he likes delaying his raise until the river, for example) or when a river card could have helped him enough to tempt him to raise with an improved 2nd best hand.

Depending on the opponent and the situation, a lead bet on the river can also have a bluff-inducing effect. Against good and very aggressive players, a river bet can be more likely to induce a bluff than a check. A river bet usually polarizes your range more than a check, which will often be check/call.

He might see your bet as a bluff. He might even bluff raise with an even weaker hand if he is absolutely sure that you are bluffing. However, bluff raises are rare on the river; don't try inducing one if you don't have a good read on a very aggressive opponent who is likely try a bluff raise on the river.

Against which opponents is it best to use this line?

TAGs aren't typically the best opponents for this line, even though it can also work well against a lot of aggressive TAGs. Typical TAGs might be capable of making thin value bets, favoring a check/raise with initiative.

They rarely have a range that fulfills the criteria for this move, however. This is because most TAGs play draws without SD value and pairs aggressively. They will thus often have A high in their range when they call down up to the river and will not bet often. TAGs are also less likely to bluff after a check, which reduces the induce-the-bluff aspect of this line.

Another reason has already been discussed. Good TAGs (5/10+) will often realize your check/raise intentions and will even refrain from betting relatively good hands for value. It's not easy to find spots against them for a check/raise that doesn't look suspicious.

You can ask yourself two questions about the situation at hand when considering a check/raise.

• Could I have a lot of A high or otherwise weak made hands in my range?
• Would I check/call these in the given situation?

If you can answer both of these questions with yes, your opponent will probably do the same and will consider making thin value bets. In general, you can play check/raise more often against opponents that you also check/call against.

The best opponent for this line raises rarely, but bets often. A lot of calling stations and other fish hardly ever raise, but bet frequently when you check to them. Unfortunately, you can't get these reads from the stats. Getting a good table read becomes very important. If opponents are not capable of making thin value bets, you should always bet yourself.

A check/raise can be a good idea when your opponent is not very showdown bound. Someone with a WTS of 45 or higher will usually have a lot of weak hands and would call a bet, but not bet himself. A check/raise would be throwing value overboard.

If an opponent with a low WTS is on the river, there are good chances that he has a solid made hand or a good draw. Both categories of hands are fitting for a check/raise.

Conclusion

The line check/raise river with initiative basically has two intentions. You simply want to get one extra bet from bad opponents, as they will walk right into your trap. At the same time, you want to optimally balance your checks on the river against good opponents.

You will inevitably have to check from time to time OOP with initiative on the river. In order to avoid looking like a toothless shark, you should be capable of sometimes check/raising an opponent's bet.

In this article, you've learned how you can optimally assess when a check/raise on the river is the most profitable way of playing. If you apply this line correctly, you can maximally exploit bad opponents and at the same time, you'll become an uncomfortable opponent for the other good players.

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