Flop play - Basic Concepts
Introduction
This article explains
- Continuation bets
- Made hands
- Drawing hands
- Combination hands
The flop game in Omaha is very different from No-Limit Hold'em. Made hands are practically never slowplayed, because there is almost always a lot of potential scare cards. Drawing hands are either strong enough to be played aggressively from the flop, or too weak to be played at all.
Continuation bets lose a lot of strength, since opponents will call them easily. This means that to protect a made hand on the flop, you can't check/raise, but must donkbet. The following articles describes how to exploit the strength of different hands in given situations: “Preflop play Basic Concepts”, “How to Discount the Outs in Omaha”, “Drawing Hands in Omaha” and “Made Hands in Omaha”.
This article describes a lot of examples of possible hands that will help you get started in Pot-Limit Omaha. Unfortunately it is impossible to assess every possible hand combination, which is why it is important to understand this article very well, so that you will know what to do in similar situations.
1. Contibets
a. Raised Pot
The "value of initiative" concept, which is very profitable in No-Limit Hold'em, somewhat loses its value in Pot-Limit Omaha. Very often - especially in full ring games - there are a lot of players who look at the flop even in raised pots, so a continuation bet as a bluff doesn't make much sense. In a 3-way pot the flop often brings made hands like sets and two pairs, as well as several strong draws, which means we will often meet resistance.
Ideal situations for continuation bets are boards on which you can represent something an open raiser is likely to have. These include Ace- or King- high flops with few draws, or rainbow boards that bring a potential broadway straight.
Scenario 1:
You raised two MP limpers from the CO and both limpers as well as the BB call. The hand goes like this:
Board: K 9

Your hand: A Q

9
It is checked to you and you make a continuation bet of 3/4 pot size
This board brings few strong draws, except to QJT* -type hands, which have maximum 9 outs (in this case only 7, since Hero has a Q and a J). This however isn't a very strong draw for Omaha. A lot of players would raise KK** hands pre-flop, so the limpers rarely have top set here. Usually one doesn't play a lone bottom set on the flop, since one doesn't have redraws or position, and very big reverse implied odds. On top of that, a continuation bet in a 4-way pot represents a lot of strength. Thus a bet in this case is in most cases profitable.
Scenario 2:
You raise first in from the BU and both blinds call.
Board: Q

Your hand: K


You hold the second nut flushdraw and a gutshot. Although this board brings few made hands, none of your outs are to the nuts. For this reason it is a bad idea to check behind, as you would be forced to fold on the turn if you hit and are faced with a lot of action. A c-bet will often get AQ** or better type hands to fold, as well as relatively weak draws. A naked KT** or a T-high flushdraw will also fold to the c-bet. However if you're raised, you can easily give up the hand. In short, you should make a pot-size continuation bet on this board to represent QQ** or JJ**. Hands like QJ** will seldom raise here and play for stacks, because they have very little equity versus big draws like K-Q-T-9 + flushdraw and are drawing dead against a set.
Scenario 3:
You open-raise from MP at an 8-handed table and get 4 callers. The flop comes:
Board: T

Your hand: A


Both blinds check to you. In a 5-way pot you practically never hold the best hand here. Aside from the flushdraw, there are several big hands like strong straight draws, sometimes with one or two pairs to go with them. On this board even a marginal hand like Q-T-9-7 is a clear favourite against your naked overpair.
Hand Pot equity Wins Ties
|
A |
34.39% |
206,335 |
0 |
|
QT97 |
65.61% |
393,665 |
0 |
You should not place a continuation bet here, because you will get raised by strong hands far too often, and are almost always way behind.
b. Reraised Pot
In the beginning, preflop 3-bets are rarely recommended. According to the article of preflop play, you should only 3- or 4-bet big pair hands like AA** and KK** when it will get more than 40% of your stack in the pot, allowing you to conti-bet all-in.
If you reraise with strong rundown hands like J-T-9-8, you should c-bet mainly on A- or K-high flops, where you can easily represent top set. It is hard to decide whether to c-bet all-in, since big pair-hands will always have outs to two pair or sets. For example with J-T-9-8 on a Q-6-3 flop, you'll likely always be way behind.
2. Made Hands
How to assess the strength of various made hands is explained in the article "Made Hands in Omaha". Here I will give various bet lines for every made hand, whether you're the preflop aggressor or not.
a. Top Set
A top set is in most cases the strongest possible made hand on the flop. In addition to that, in case you're against a draw, you also hold the strongest possible redraw. In almost all cases it is correct to play a flopped top set aggressively and -when possible- go all-in directly on the flop. If you are the preflop aggressor, you should always make a continuation bet. You should also raise any donkbets to protect your hand from draws. Indeed, because of the four hole cards in Omaha, even boards like Q-8-4 can bring draws.
Scenario 4:
UTG limps, you raise potsize from the CO, BU, SB and UTG call. There are 4 players to the flop:
Board: Q
4
Your hand: A


SB checks, UTG donks 2/3 potsize.
At first sight, the board might seem harmless, since there is no possible flushdraw, OESD or wrap. However, hands like J-T-9-* and 7-6-5-* each have 9 outs against your hand. Moreover, a hand like 8876 has second set plus a gutshot with the 5 for the nut straight. So if one of following cards: J, T, 9, 7, 6, 5 falls on the turn, you won't know whether you still hold the best hand, as straights would be possible. Additionally you are giving your opponents the opportunity to part cheaply from top two pair or a small set. Thus the correct action here is a strong reraise, to commit yourself directly on the flop.
Let's consider effective stacks of 100BB. You raised potsize after one limper, to 4.5BB and got 3 callers. The pot is at 19BB. An opponent donkbets 13BB and you raise to 58BB, leaving you 37.5BB behind. In case you are just called, you can go all-in on the turn regardless of the card that comes, because even if your opponent hits the straight, you'll have good odds to draw to the fullhouse. Additionally, most of the money will have gone in when you were ahead.
This example clearly shows that a slowplay in Pot-Limit Omaha is almost never a good idea.
On flops where a flush or several straights are possible, you should often play top set as a semi-bluff. After a raise, your opponent can continue with almost no hand other than the nuts. And in case you're called, you have the strongest redraw with 7 outs on the flop and 10 on the turn.
Scenario 5:
CO open-raises potsize, BU calls, you call from the SB, BB folds. The flop is 3-handed.
Board: K

Your hand: K
Q

You check and the preflop aggressor bets 2/3 potsize. BU calls and you raise potsize.
BU's call often means he holds a small flush with which he doesn't want to raise. CO's bet could just be a continuation bet as a pure bluff or as a bare Ace bluff (e.g he has the Ace of spades with no other spade and wants to represent the nuts). He could also have a small flush. In most cases you'll win the pot directly, but should the hand end up in a 3-way all-in, you'll have enough equity with your full house draw to make the play profitable. If you only played check-call on the flop, you would often have to give up your hand on a turn blank, or if the board pairs, you would get only little action from your opponents.
There are of course many more scenarios, but in almost all of them a flopped set can be played aggressively profitably, either because you have fold equity, or because of a multi-way all-in. Approximations of your equity with top set in such situations can be found in the article "Made hands in Omaha". It is important to choose a bet line to best exploit your opponents through bets or raises.
b. Trips
Trips are a very dangerous hand in Pot Limit Omaha. One can be way ahead, way behind, or in a coinflip. When you hold trips, it is important that the paired board card be higher than the non-paired one.
Scenario 6:
UTG, MP, CO, BU limp, SB completes and you check from the BB.
Board: T 8
8
Your hand: 8


Here you would have only one out to quads against TT**, or you could be drawing dead against T8**. Even against a hand like A-Q-J-8 you would have only 31% equity.
In this situation you should always play bet/fold. All draws will fold on such a board with multiway action, and T8** will always raise for protection, as every overcard could potentially complete a higher full house. If you're just called, you should re-evaluate on the turn, because there is a chance you're against a full house already.
In contrast with Texas Hold'em, it isn't unlikely that someone has the last 8. Since there are 6 players to the flop, your opponents have a total of 20 cards. You know 7 cards, so there are 45 unknown ones. In 20 in 45 cases, or 44.4%, someone will have the remaining 8. This is just one example that shows that your hand isn't as strong as it looks at first. Here is our equity against possible holdings for our opponents:
Hand Pot equity Wins Ties
|
8 |
12.82% |
72,931 |
7,986 |
|
T8*,TT,A8* |
87.18% |
519,083 |
7,986 |
Scenario 7:
MP, CO and BU limp, SB completes, you raise potsize (6BB) from the BB. MP, BU and SB call, CO folds. The pot on the flop is 25BB.
Board: J
3
Your Hand: J
9
6
SB checks, you c-bet 20BB, MP and BU fold, SB check raises potsize, which would put you all-in. You call. Effective stacks were 100BB, so you had to call 74BB to win 135BB.
The continuation bet is important, so as not to give a free card to your 3 opponents, who could catch a full house cheaply. However after SB's check/raise, we are in most cases beat. He almost always has 33**, J3**, or AJ**. Against these hands we have the following equity:
Hand Pot equity Wins Ties
|
J |
40.87% |
237,845 |
14,730 |
|
33** J3** AJ** |
59.13% |
347,425 |
14,730 |
You must call the all-in, since you were commited by the continuation bet. If we compare this situation with the last, we can clearly see the difference between the two hands, even though we held trips with a bad kicker in both cases.
c. Top Two Pair
One of the big trouble hands in Pot Limit Omaha is top two pair. You'll win only small pots, but almost always lose big ones. Top two without a redraw is almost always played bet/fold on the flop. Against any kind of raise, regardless if the board is dry or draw-heavy, you'll be behind, as long as you give credit to your opponent for a sensible range. In some cases he will be freerolling with the same top two pair, plus a redraw.
Scenario 8:
MP open-raises potsize, you call from the CO, SB calls.
Board: J 8
4
Your hand: J


SB checks, MP conti-bets potsize. You hold top two pair with no redraw and fold.
Lets assume the SB will check-fold and that you are against only one opponent. He will very rarely conti-bet this board with air. Possible holdings for him are:
- Top or second set. 44** is unlikely, since there aren't many hands including 44 with which he could open-raise.
- Top two with straight or flush draw.
- A small rundown hand like 7-6-5-4 with a flush draw. The same hand without a flushdraw is unlikely, since it would have only 6 outs to the straight, with only 4 of those to the nuts.
- Overpair with straight or flush draw.
He might make a continuation bet with a few other weak hands, but by raising, you would isolate all the hands that beat you.
Hand Pot equity Wins Ties
|
J |
11.80% |
62,934 |
15,722 |
|
88** JJ** KJT8 A |
88.20% |
521,344 |
15,722 |
If you just call, there are countless scare cards that could come on the turn. Only a Jack will give you the nuts, and an eight would only give you a low full house, that must be played very carefully, because your opponent seldom has 44** or 84** and goes broke. These are are the only two hands that your opponent could hold with which he will give you action on the turn.
Had you been the preflop aggressor, it would have been correct to make a continuation bet almost every time. You must decide for every particular situation whether you want to go through with the hand. However, top two pair with no redraw to a straight, flush or even better two pair, is too weak to play for 100BB stacks.
d. Second Set, Bottom Set
The two small sets are very different from top set, in that you lose a massive amount of equity in multi-way pots, because of the high chance of being against top set. Thus you could easily be drawing to a single out. Bottom set is played similarly to top two pair, so let's have another look at scenario 8.
Scenario 9
MP open-raises potsize, you call from the CO, SB calls.
Board: J 8
4
Your hand: 5


SB checks, MP conti-bets potsize. You hold bottom set with no redraw and fold.
We give villain the same range as in the previous example and have the following equity:
Hand Pot equity Wins Ties
|
5 |
12.09% |
72,043 |
1,025 |
|
88** JJ** KJT8 A |
87.91% |
526,932 |
1,025 |
As you can see, our equity has barely improved.
Second set is clearly strong and should be played in many cases. On many flops it is possible to evaluate how likely it is that your opponent has top set. For example if the flop comes A high and he's the preflop aggressor, then there's a fair chance that you are behind to AA**. However, if you get action on a similar board from a limper, second set is often the best hand. This simple form of hand reading makes it easier to evaluate the strength of your sets on the flop.
Scenario 10:
The table is 6-handed. MP limps, CO raises potsize, you call from the SB, MP calls, and you see the flop 3-handed.
Board: A

Your hand: Q
T

You check and MP bets potsize. CO folds and you raise potsize with your second set.
MP very rarely has AA** here, because this hand should always be raised first in from MP. He'll very often have a strong draw here, and doesn't want to give a free card that could pair the board, thus giving an opportunity for two pair to draw out. He also doesn't want to see a blank on the turn, since that would massively reduce his equity. Another possible holding would be a weak made hand like top two pair or bottom set with a straight draw, which he would want to protect from the many potential scare cards on the turn. He can't count on the preflop aggressor to make a continuation bet here, so a donkbet in his position with a such hand is the right move.
You shouldn't donkbet from the SB here, first of all because you can get some free information from your opponents' actions, and second because you don't know how the preflop aggressor will react. Indeed, if he raises you, you will be in a tough spot, as either top set or a strong draw could raise here. In one case you are way behind (versus AA**), and in the other, you are in a coinflip situation. Moreover, a donkbet gives both opponents a chance to see the turn card relatively cheaply, by just calling.
With a check-raise you can get much more money in the middle right on the flop, committing yourself profitably against both opponents. On this board the preflop aggressor will often overplay a hand like top two pair against a check-raise, since he'll be committed, whereas he could part from it easily against a donkbet.
e. Flush
Flopped flushes are very easy to play in Pot-Limit Omaha. They have very little potential for improving, and are either drawing dead against a higher flush, or way ahead a lower one. Only sets can be played on a 3-suited board, since they have outs to a full house.
- Small flopped flushes should be played check/fold in almost all cases. If you bet, you'll only be called when you're behind, since it is quite likely that someone has a higher flush in Omaha, especially in a multi-way pot. If the flop is checked around, you must decide on the turn whether it's profitable to bet or call.
- Middle flushes, T-high to Q-high, should be played bet/fold on the flop. You'll often win the pot directly, and will still be called by lower flushes looking for a cheap showdown by checking behind on the turn or river. However if you are raised, you're almost always beat and should fold, as this kind of hand is definitely too weak to call bets all the way.
- The second nut flush is the first that can actually be played for value, since there are plenty of opponents who will call with smaller flushes. Often a raise from an opponent means that you are beat. If he check/calls every street however, he usually has a medium flush and wants a cheap showdown.
- The nut flush should be played fast and strong. You will often get value from sets that will call a bet on the flop hoping to catch a full house on the turn, or from the second nut flush, if your opponent can't let go his hand on later streets.
f. Straight
Flopped straights are a very dangerous hand in Pot Limit Omaha. One must play such a holding strongly, since it is extremely vulnerable. This is especially true on 2-suited flops, where the turn can bring a lot of scare cards, that would complete a higher straight or a flush.
Scenario 11:
CO raises, you call from the BU, both blinds call.
Board: 9
5
Your hand: 7


You have flopped the nut straight, however the following turn cards could counterfeit your hand:
8 cards which make a full house possible (every remaining 9, 8 and 5)
10 spades that could make a flush, but no full house
13 cards that make a higher potential straight, but no flush (3* Q, J, T and 2* 7, 6).
That makes a total of 31 out of 45 cards that could kill your hand on the turn. You won't know which ones will have helped your opponent, thus you must choose a line that will get you all-in on the flop. This hand shows how important position is in such cases. You are on the button, which means that everyone will bet before you, making it possible for you to commit yourself with a raise. In case no-one bets in front of you, you can still bet potsize from the button and often, opponents with straight draws, sets, flushdraws or combo-draws will raise you, suspecting a steal from your part. Thus you can get your money in on the flop very profitably. On the lower limits, for 100BB, a nut straight should almost always be played all-in on the flop.
Any situation is plausible here: since you have no redraws, your opponent will often be freerolling, for instance with a hand like T-9-7-6 with which he would have the same nut straight, but with outs to a higher one, with every J, 7 and 6. In this case you could at best split the pot - excluding a very unlikely backdoor full house or quads - since your opponent would have 8 outs twice to a better straight. He can't lose the pot, but can scoop it.
For 100BB you should rarely think twice in this situation. However if you're deep-stacked, you should be prepared to fold the nut straight without redraws when you are face with too much action. In these situations, you will usually be behind against strong holdings like a straight draw + flush draw or a set + flush draw.
Hand Pot equity Wins Ties
|
7 |
28.99% |
173,947 |
0 |
|
J |
71.01% |
426,053 |
0 |
As you can see, your equity against two hands that would go all-in for a deep stack on the flop isn't very good. For 100BB though you will always find weaker hands that are willing to push on the flop.
As this example shows, the nut straight alone isn't always very strong. If one flops a small straight, it should be played, as with small flushes, bet/fold. If you're called, you should re-evaluate on the turn, keeping in mind that pot control is always very important.
g. Full House
A flopped full house, like trips, has several more or less strong forms. You could flop the nut full house, e.g. TT** on a T-5-5 board, or a relatively vulnerable under-full house like 87** on an 8-7-7 flop, or even a very vulnerable under-full house, e.g. 44** on a 9-9-4 board.
For both underfulls protection is extremely important. Ideally, we try to commit ourselves on the flop with a check-raise to gain maximum protection against over cards, which could catch higher full houses. People often overplay their trips on these boards, so you won't necessarily get your money in on the flop against a better full house or quads, even if it does occasionaly happen.
Scenario 12:
UTG+1, UTG+2 limp, MP3 raises potsize, BU calls, you call from the BB, UTG+1 and UTG+2 call. You see the flop 5-handed.
Board: J

Your hand: J T
T

You bet 3/4 potsize.
You are first to act and have hit a good flop, the second nuts. Now the question is how to protect best against trips with high cards and what line to use for maximum value.
A check-raise is more often than not a bad idea, since the preflop aggressor will very rarely make a continuation bet in a 5-way pot, and if no-one bets their trips, you are giving a free card to overpairs and trips. For example if the flop is checked around and the turn comes K, you will be forced to give up your hand against heavy action from your opponents, sine KK** and K8** are likely hands that beat you. Furthermore, a check-raise will often scare away trips with A kicker, since they won't have odds to play on.
A donkbet however will often get raised by trips, since many opponents will view this bet as relatively weak. On top of that, the pot is already quite large, meaning you are protecting quite well against trips, since you are giving less implied odds. The problem with this hand is that if overcards come on the turn or river and you are raised, you must always let go of your hand, since you are beat. Only on the flop do opponents overplay trips, creating a profitable situation to go all-in.
The only full house that you can slowplay profitably is aces full, since there are almost no scarecards. But even in this case, if you are raised, it is usually better to push than to call, since your opponent will often feel committed with trips, whereas he might fold a lot on the river without a full house.
3. Drawing Hands
a. Flush draws
Bare flushdraws are too weak in Pot Limit Omaha to be played directly all-in as a semi-bluff. It is important to remember that you should always draw to the nuts and you will very often be in a highly profitable flush over flush situation, where you can win big pots with the best hand. In many cases on drawy boards it is a good idea to call to induce an overcall from opponents with weaker draws.
Scenario 13:
MP open-raises, CO calls, you call from BU, both blinds call, you see the flop 5-handed..
Board: 9

Your hand: A


You hold the nut flush draw with a few overcards. The blinds check and MP bets potsize. CO folds and you call from the BU.
Your hand is too weak to justify a raise, and too strong to fold, since you have a strong draw. Each of your 8 outs which doesn't pair the board gives you the nuts. In case you have only 6 nut-outs because someone else holds a flush draw, then you have very good implied odds. Since the open-raiser made a continuation bet here, he must have hit the board. He will very often bet a hand like overpair+flush draw or a rundown hand with two pair and a good straight draw in this scenario. Our call encourages the blinds to call with weak straight or flush draws to see the turn cards cheaply, and since you are drawing to the nuts, you can play on very profitably.
In case one of the blinds check-raises, you must decide, based on the action and stack sizes, whether it is good to go all-in 3-way. Sine you will often be faced by a straight- and flush draw on one side and a set on the other, your outs decrease drastically. Against a hand like 8h7h 6c5c you also lose the 9c out and the opponent's two clubs also take away some of your equity, which means you must often fold in this situation. All in all, it is very rare that someone check-raises on such a board, indeed sets will usually donkbet, meaning a call to induce overcalls works very well. Because of our position, on the button, we have very good playability on the turn, and have rather high implied odds.
b. Straight draws
In the article "How to Discount Outs in Omaha" it is explained how problematic it is the play strong straight draws on 2-suited boards in Pot-Limit Omaha, which is why I will explain the case of strong wraps on rainbow flops, where you can play fast and strong, since you hold the strongest draw and perhaps the best equity on the flop.
Scenario 14:
MP and CO limp, you raise potsize on BU, SB calls, BB folds, MP and CO call, you see the flop 4-handed with 100BB effective stacks. The pot at this point is about 23BB.
Board: 9
4
Your hand: J


You hold a strong wrap. Every Q, 7 and 6 gives you the nuts and every J and T are also outs to a non-nut straight. On top of that you have a backdoor flush draw and top pair, which gives you a little more equity.
The blinds check and MP bets potsize. Your hand is very strong, indeed you have 11 nut-outs to the turn, 6 more non-nut outs and several backdoor outs and your goal is to get your money in the middle. Additionally, you have very good equity against a hand like two pair with OESD and are a slight favourite against bare sets. Moreover, you have a little fold equity against second and bottom set, which are somewhat more likely than top set, as you already hold top pair.
Hence you raise potsize and are almost all-in and committed. Here, calling to induce an overcall from the blinds is very bad, since weak hands with backdoor flushdraws can stay in the hand, as well as gutshots or weak straight draws that could split against you.
c. Monster draws
Monster draws are very common in Pot Limit Omaha and should be played as sets. They often have the strongest equity on the flop, and it is important to push out weaker draws, that can split with some of your outs. Here too it is seldom good to induce overcalls, but it is much more important to isolate made hands. Ideally, you will be all-in on the flop heads-up with a lot of dead money in the pot. As an example, let's have a look at scenario 13 through one of our potential opponents.
Scenario 15:
MP open-raises, CO and BU call, you call from SB and BB calls. You see the flop 5-handed.
Board: 9

Your hand: 8 7
6

You hit a dream flop. Aside from a strong wrap you also have a small flush draw with outs to the straight flush. Against a bare top set you have over 60% equity. Since you are first to act in the hand, you are looking to check-raise, in hopes that an opponent with an overpair + flush draw or a set will pay up. If you donkbet here and aren't raised, you would be forced to lay down your hand to a turn flush or pair, since you don't know whether someone has two pair, and low set or the nut flush draw, since they just called or overcalled the flop. If you were in middle position then a donkbet would be the best choice, since there are only few people behind you to act who might have hit something.
Hence you check, BB checks, MP conti-bets, CO folds and BU calls. Like in the previous example, the opponent often has a weak straight draw or a bare flush draw, and is trying to see a cheap turn by overcalling. When you checkraise here, you have fold equity against the open-raiser's weak hands and will force BU's probable nut flush draw to fold, which gives you more clean outs. On top of that you commit yourself and lose the disadvantage of having to play out of position on later streets. Unless your opponent has a set with a better flush draw, you will almost always be a favourite to win the hand. There is also a lot of dead money because of BU's call.
4. Combination hands
Combination hands are a mix of a weak made hand and a good draw that together have enough equity against almost all of the opponent's possible holdings. One of the most common hands is the
Overpair with Flushdraw
In many cases in raised pots you will have an overpair with a flush draw, which has enough odds to be played. A very important point to remember here is that flushdraws in multi-way pots should always be to the nuts, in order to have clean outs. Let's have another look at scenario 3, just changing our hand's suits a little.
Scenario 16:
You open-raise in an 8-handed fullring game from MP and get 4 callers, so you see the flop 5-way.
Board: T

Your hand: A


Both blinds check to you. Your hand has now significantly changed. The nut flush draw increases your equity against strong straight draws and pairs, since one hand, you will be ahead, and on the other hand, all your flush outs against such hands are clean. Against an opponent with two pair you have 8 flush outs, 2 outs to a set and 3 outs to a better two pair. Against a set you have 8 flush outs and 2 outs to a better set. And your draw is much stronger than pure straight draws, since all your flush outs block some of the straight's outs, on top of your strong redraw. This hand should be played strongly with a potsize continuation bet, to get all-in multi-way for 100BB everytime in this scenario.
Hand Pot equity Wins Ties
|
A |
28.93% |
156,045 |
0 |
|
T976 |
32.73% |
173,750 |
5,567 |
|
88** |
38.33% |
203,959 |
5,567 |
Hand Pot equity Wins Ties
|
A |
35.87% |
215,138 |
175 |
|
88**,T976 |
64.13% |
384,687 |
175 |
These are two possible situations for the hand. In both cases, your equity is not very good, but since 4 people already called preflop, the dead money compensates for your lower equity. Since bottom set without a redraw rarely continues in the hand, the following scenario is also common:
Hand Pot equity Wins Ties
|
A |
35.68% |
210,814 |
0 |
|
T876,T976 |
38.53% |
227,638 |
0 |
|
Q |
25.79% |
152,391 |
0 |
As you can see, overpair with the nut flush draw is one of the first hands that should be played fast and strong on the flop. Especially at the lower limits, where two pair, overpairs and weak draws are often overplayed, this is a very profitable scenario.
Other such combination hands include:
- Two pair with straight draw, which is very common with rundown hands
- Top pair with overcards + nut flush draw
Conclusion
Pot Limit Omaha is much more complex than No-Limit Hold'em because of the much higher number of possible combinations, and hence cannot be completely explained in one article. However, you should now understand the basics of flop play, and after learning about turn and river play, you can read about some more specific situations in the Made Hands and Drawing Hands articles.
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