fl silver 66
Introduction
In this article
- When to contibet
- How to react to donk bets
- How and when to play according to odds and outs
You've probably heard the old cliche "AK is like Anna Kournikova - looks great, but rarely wins." AKo is one of the most often played hands in poker. But as you know, this hand often looks before than after the flop. You will usually end up missing the flop and won't quite know where you stand. You are certain to have overcards if you don't pair the flop. Hitting on the turn or river would give you top pair top kicker.
Learning the strengths and weaknesses of overcards and how to play them profitably will improve your overall game immensely. These hands account for a large portion of a pro's profit: A pro knows when to fold and when to get value for his hand.
This article will teach you how to play after the flop when you have overcards and were the pre-flop aggressor. A good understanding of the concept of odds and outs will be required, if you aren't familiar with this subject, or need to brush up before you continue reading, you can take a look at the article on Odds and Outs for Advanced Players.
What makes playing overcards so difficult?
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You will usually only have overcards after the flop
The odds of hitting a pair on the flop are only around 29%. The odds of hitting two pair are only around 1.5%. The odds of hitting a flush draw when you have suited hole cards are app. 15%. In other words, you will have neither a pair, nor a strong draw, on 2 out of 3 flops when you play AK. This may sound a bit sobering, but it's not that bad, since ... -
You will usually be ahead on the flop even when you don't a pair
Probability is just; your opponent will only hit the flop 1/3 of the time, as well. A high can very well be the best hand on the flop. The odds of being ahead with A high depend, of course, on the board and the opponent you are facing.
When should you contibet?
The Bronze and Beginner's sections gave you a number of charts to get a feel for pre-flop play, but you've only learned the standard post-flop moves so far.
There are a number of other factors that then come in to play after the flop, for example the number of opponents in the hand. This article will discuss one option you haven't seen yet: the contibet with overcards.
Many inexperienced players make the mistake of resigning the hand when they don't hit after having raised before the flop. They don't understand that they are often ahead when they have overcards and should not simply give up their equity.
Pre-flop: Hero is BB with A
6 folds, CO calls, SB completes, Hero raises, CO calls, SB calls
Flop: (6 SB) K


SB checks, Hero ???
You've completely missed the flop. You only have one overcard and a backdoor draw. Still, you can see yourself ahead fairly often. The board is pretty dry - a few straight draws could be out there, but not much else.
A lot of players limp with small pocket pairs, suited connectors and baby aces. Your AQ is ahead against a lot of these hands (such as 98, JT, J9, QT, QJ, A high and many more) on this board. Your bet allows you to protect.
If you are, in fact, ahead, your opponents will usually have 6 outs on their hole cards (as long as they don't have A high, as well). They could make a correct call with 7:1 odds, assuming they know their outs are clean. Your bet can also make a few better hands, like 22-44, fold, since they will see themselves behind after you bet and know they don't have many outs to improve their hand.
Since you are in position, you can also use this bet as a free card raise if the board gets ugly on the turn. The chance to protect the best hand, make better hands fold, and to take a free card on the turn make betting your best option.
Hero bets, CO folds, SB folds.
Of course, this hand won't always play out like it did this time. Both opponents will rarely fold on the flop. Your bet is, however, still profitable, since ...
- … you can take down a 6 SB pot with a 1 SB bet. You only need to see both opponents fold every 7th time for your bet to be +EV.
- … you could be ahead, even if an opponent stays in the hand, since a lot of players make loose calls with weak hands on the flop.
- … you could still improve your hand. You have 6 good outs, as long as your opponent doesn't have a K or a monster. A queen or ace on the turn will usually give you the best hand.
Making this decision live at the table is rarely as easy as it was in this example. Whether or not you can contibet with overcards depends on the board texture and the number of players in the hand: The more opponents in the hand and the draw heavier the board, the less likely it will be that no one will have a reason to stay in the hand after the flop.
The pot will also be larger when several opponents are involved in the hand, which means players will be less likely to fold marginal hands. Being in position is always an advantage - you can often take a free card on the turn.
We've set up the following guidelines to help you make the right decision when considering a contibet with overcards.
You (almost) always bet. You will usually be ahead against two opponents, since they will usually have missed, as well. You want to protect your hand against live cards and make better hands (like weak pocket pairs) fold. The pot will usually be small, so your opponents won't want to invest too much.
You only contibet under the right conditions. With three opponents in the hand, it's likely that someone has hit. The pot size will be at least 8 SBs, which means your opponents will be getting 9:1 odds if you bet. There are quite a few hands they could profitably call with.
Do not bet when…
- … you are out of position against all opponents.
- … the flop is draw heavy and you don't have any back doors.
- … the flop is dry without a face card.
Pre-flop: Hero is MP2 with K
Hero raises, 2 folds, Button calls, SB calls, BB calls
Flop: (8 SB) J


SB checks, BB checks, Hero ???
You've completely missed the flop and only have K high, but both blinds have checked to you and you only have one player behind you. The board is moderately coordinated; most opponents will fold when they haven't hit anything. You could even make a better hand like A high fold. There is also a face card showing, which you can represent. This is an example of a situation in which you can bet.
Pre-flop: Hero is UTG with A
Hero raises, 5 folds, CO calls, Button calls, SB folds, BB calls
Flop: (8,5 SB) J


BB checks, Hero???
This is the worst kind of flop you can see with AK - 2 suited and 3 connected cards. You don't have a backdoor for the flush and could easily be up against a pair or even two pair, since your opponents will have a number of suited connectors in their ranges after having cold called before the flop. You will rarely be ahead and can hardly expect to bluff a better hand out of the pot. If you get called, you won't know if your opponent is on a draw or made hand. You have no other choice but to check and give up the initiative.
With four opponents in the hand, you can expect someone to have hit the flop. There will also be enough money in the pot for almost everyone to call a contibet profitably.
You should only bet when …
- … the flop is very dry and at least 2 players have already checked. Paired boards are then usually pretty good for a contibet.
Pre-flop: Hero is UTG with A
Hero raises, 2 folds, MP1 calls, 2 folds, CO calls, Button calls, 1 fold, BB calls
Flop: (10,5 SB) T


BB checks, Hero???
The flop is dry and the BB checks. You can't see yourself ahead against 4 opponents. The probability of someone having hit is around 100%, you are oop against most of your opponents and the pot is so large, that you won't be able to make anyone fold (unless they have absolutely nothing). Opponents could even call profitably with a gutshot (not even needing implied odds!). The best thing you can do is check.
With more than 4 opponents in the hand, your contibet can't be profitable. At least one opponent will have hit the flop (in all likelihood) and the pot will be very large. No one is going to be folding to a bet on the flop. You can only continue playing according to odds and outs.
How should you react to a donk bet on the flop?
Been here before? You try to isolate a limper, which doesn't work, and then the limper donks into you on the flop.
Pre-flop: Hero is CO with A
UTG calls, 5 folds, Hero raises, BU calls, UTG calls.
Flop: (7,5 SB) 6


UTG bets, Hero ???
UTG has donked. You would have contibet if had checked, for sure, since you will usually be ahead. The question now: Are you still likely to be ahead with your overcards?
In this example, the answer is yes! The flop only connects with 5 cards directly, so UTG is not very likely to have hit. He probably wouldn't bet with a 6 either, since he would be afraid of scaring off his customers.
Even a fish knows you will often miss the flop after you raise before the flop. A lot of opponents will bluff on this board. Since this is quite possible, you should raise in order to push the BU, who probably has 6 live outs, out of the hand.
As you may have noticed, you are usually in the following scenario when an opponent donks: You see yourself ahead against the passive player often enough and want to force the players behind you out of the hand. The question now: Are you ahead against the donkey? The answer to this question when facing an unknown depends largely on the board texture and number of opponents in the hand.
Your opponent's donk is either a bluff or a made hand. He will be semi-bluffing in the rarest of cases. The few opponents in the hand, the more likely the donk is a bluff, the more opponents in the hand, the likelier it's a made hand.
Raise the donk bet when you have exactly 2 opponents.
Let's change the example around a bit.
Pre-flop: Hero is CO with A
UTG calls, 5 folds, Hero raises, BU calls, SB calls, BB calls, UTG calls.
Flop: (10 SB) 6


UTG bets, Hero ???
The flop hasn't chanced, but it's much less likely that this donk bet is a bluff, since so many players are in the hand. UTG is betting into the entire field (4 opponents he knows little about). The pot is also pretty big. You will probably have to call once with overcards. As we said, only a very aggressive or stupid player would bluff in this spot, so you will have to choose a passive approach. Take the Quiz on this article to find out how to play the hand correctly.
This presents a whole new scenario. This donk bet could be a made hand, a bluff, or a semi-bluff. Your two hole cards become very important. Your hand is particularly vulnerable with so many draws showing; backdoors will come into play.
Raise when …
- … facing less than 4 opponents and …
- … you have at least a BDFD or a 0-gap BDSD.
Note that you don't have a 0-gapper with AK on a Q73 board, but rather a 2-gapper, since you need a J and a T for a straight.
Pre-flop: Hero is MP1 with A
3 folds, Hero raises, 4 folds, SB calls, BB calls.
Flop: (6 SB) 3


SB checks, BB bets, Hero ?
The BB donks into you on a draw heavy board. He will usually have a pretty wide range when doing so. He could have anything from a made hand like bottom, middle or even top pair, as well as a number of possible flush and/or straight draws. You can see yourself ahead against his range on average. You also have a nut BDFD, which makes your hand stronger against other draws.
You could get the SB to fold a better hand, like bottom/mid pair or a small pocket pair, with a raise. You are also in position and can probably take a free card on the turn if you want. These factors make your hand strong enough for a raise.
You won't be able to see yourself ahead anymore if you get 3-bet and will only be able to continue playing according to odds and outs. You'll be getting 11:1 odds if the SB folds, so you will only need 4 outs to stay in the hand. You might not even be in bad shape with your overcards, since he could have top pair or an overpair. You also have a nut BDFD.
How do you play overcards according to odds and outs?
We will now take a look at a few situations in which you choose (or have no other choice but) to play passively using the same examples from the previous section.
Pre-flop: Hero is MP2 with K
Hero raises, 2 folds, Button calls, SB calls, BB calls
Flop: (8 SB) J


SB checks, BB checks, Hero bets, BU folds, SB raises, BB folds, Hero ???
You decided to contibet the flop, the then the SB check/raises. There is no sense in 3-betting on this dry board; the SB will usually have a made hand that he won't give up easily.
He will usually see the turn at the very least. The pot will then be too large for him to fold, since he would be getting 13:1 odds. A free card won't help you much; you only have backdoors and overcards and can't know how many outs you have. You are left with other choice than playing passively and take out your checklist for playing according to odds and outs.
1) How many discounted outs do you have?
You have 6 undiscounted outs on your overcards, but they won't always give you the best hand. You can't be sure that you have the best hand if you hit top pair. The queen could complete an OESD, or you could be dominated by KJ or even K8 (although he would probably not check/raise with K8). You might even be facing a set.
On the other hand, you can't discount all of your outs. You have overcards and could be playing heads with top pair and a good kicker if you hit (you won't be able to fold if you do hit). You can give yourself 4 outs on your overcards after discounting. You can give yourself another 2 outs for your 2 card BDFD (as you learned in the article on odds and outs). You also have 2 2-gap BDSDs (T9 and A9). You can give yourself 0.25 outs for each. All in all, you have 6.5 outs after discounting.
2) How large is the pot?
11.5 SBs.
3) How much will it cost to stay in the hand?
You are last to act, so you know it will cost exactly 1 SB.
4) Compare the odds to the pot odds: call or fold
You need 6.5:1 odds to call with 6.5 outs. You have an easy call with the 11.5:1 pot odds that you are being offered.
As you can see, overcards need to be discounted (sometimes heavily). This is the case in our example, since your opponent's range is so polarized. He will either have a made hand or nothing at all after check/raising, and usually it will be a made hand. Your overcard outs won't all be clean, especially if the flop is showing any possible draws. You might even be dominated or drawing dead. As a general rule of thumb we can therefore say:
On a rainbow flop against …
- 1 opponent: You can give yourself 5 outs on your overcards.
- 2 opponents: You can give yourself 4 outs on your overcards.
- more than 2 opponents: You can give yourself 3 outs on your overcards.
Pre-flop: Hero is UTG with A
Hero raises, 5 folds, CO calls, BU calls, SB folds, BB calls
Flop: (8,5 SB) J


BB checks, Hero checks, CO checks, BU bets, BB folds, Hero ?
You decided not to contibet and the BU starts the action. You have to decide to call or fold after the BB gets out of the way.
1) How many discounted outs do you have?
You have 6 undiscounted outs on your overcards. The last example taught you how to discount. The BU bet into 3 players, so you discount your outs by 50%, leaving you 6. Keep in mind you could already be drawing dead (or very thin).
Your opponent could have a completed straight; a couple of two pairs are also in the other players' ranges. The board is also suited, something you have to take into account. You can't discount all of your 
Discount your tainted outs by 50%. This leaves you with 2-3 discounted outs in our example.
2) How large is the pot?
9.5 SBs.
3) How much will it cost to stay in the hand?
Calling will cost you 1 SB. You do have one opponent behind you, but a check/raise would be very unlikely in this situation. You checked as the PFA; he would probably have bet if he had a hand, since there is only one player behind him.
4) Compare the odds to the pot odds: call or fold
You need 15:1 pot odds to call with 2-3 outs. You fold, since you are only getting 9.5:1.
We can therefore say:
Discount your tainted outs by 50% on a suited board.
Discount your tainted outs by 100% on a single suited board.
Here is a chart so summarize things:
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Outs on Overcards
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Keep in mind this chart only provides a guideline to follow. The actual values depend on a number of situational factors, such as the board texture and opponent(s). Use it as a reference and combine if with the information you have - you will probably make the right decision.
How should you play on the turn?
Your play on the turn won't differ too strongly from your play on the flop. Expect your opponents to be tighter on the turn in general. Many players like making a cheap bluff or raise for a free card on the flop, but bluffs can rarely be found on the turn. Opponents will also be less likely to call with a draw, since they will be usually be getting worse pot odds than on the flop.
It's important to differentiate between two possible situations on the turn when you have overcards: Either you will have initiative, or you won't. We will only look at examples in which you have initiative, because any time you have overcards without initiative your hand is just a weak draw and can only be played according to odds and outs.
Your opponents have been passive so far. This is usually due to one of two possible reasons: either they are on a draw and want to see the next card as cheaply as possible, or they have a made hand that they want to take to the showdown cheaply (occasionally they could even be slowplaying a monster).
Pre-flop: Hero is MP2 with K
Hero raises, 3 folds, SB calls, BB calls
Flop: (6 SB) J


SB checks, BB checks, Hero bets, SB folds, BB calls.
Turn: (4 BB) 6
BB checks, Hero ?
You have a realistic chance at getting the BB, your opponent, to fold after he only called on the flop. A lot of opponents in the lower limits won't believe you until you bet on the turn.
It's also quite possible that he called your bet on the flop with a marginal draw (gutshot) and will have to give it up to a bet on the turn. He also could have made a loose call with A high and be willing to fold it on the turn. You could even be ahead with your hand. Your opponent has been passive, so he probably doesn't have a strong hand like top pair. All of these factors combine to make a turn bet profitable in this situation.
You should usually bet when you are only facing one opponent on the turn.
Pre-flop: Hero is MP2 with K
Hero raises, 3 folds, SB calls, BB calls
Flop: (6 SB) J


SB checks, BB checks, Hero bets, SB calls, BB calls.
Turn 1: (4,5 BB) 6
SB checks, BB checks, Hero ?
We see the same board, but this time both opponents call your flop bet. The flop is moderately coordinated; 2 OESDs and a couple of gutshots are possible. You will almost always be behind on the turn with two other players in the hand. Your chances of winning the pot are slim. This is a good spot to take a free card. You check behind and hope to see a good card on the river or to get a free showdown. If your opponent bets, you will have to fold.
Turn 2: (4,5 BB) A
SB checks, BB checks, Hero ?
This turn card creates an entirely different situation. Even if your opponents called with marginal hands, you now have a very realistic chance at getting them to fold with a bet. You raised before and on the flop, and are now raising again on the A on the turn. Your opponents will assume that you either have a big pocket pair or overcards, which is exactly the range they are now behind against. A single pair needs 8:1 odds to call on the turn. Your opponents will only be getting 6:1 - they will have to fold if they don't see themselves ahead. Therefore, you bet.
When you are facing two opponents on the turn, you must take the flop texture and turn card into account before you decide to raise again.
Pre-flop: Hero is SB with A

MP3 calls, CO calls, BU folds, Hero raises, BB calls, MP3 calls, CO calls.
Flop: (8 SB) Q


Hero bets, BB calls, MP3 calls, CO calls.
Turn: (6 BB) 7
Hero ?
Unfortunately, everyone called your contibet on the flop. You can't see yourself ahead on the turn against this many opponents, regardless of how dry the flop is. You are also out of position against every opponent.
The turn won't scare anyone into folding a better hand that they didn't fold on the flop. It's a pretty grim situation for you, so all you can do is check.
When you are facing more than 2 opponents, you will usually have to check with overcards.
Examples
Now that you've been introduced to the theory, it's time to take a look at a few concrete examples.
Pre-flop: Hero is BB with A

2 folds, UTG+2 calls, 3 folds, BU calls, SB folds, Hero raises, UTG+2 calls, BU calls.
Flop: (6.5 SB) 3


Hero bets, UTG+2 calls, BU calls.
Turn: (4.75 BB) K
Hero ?
Both players call your contibet on the flop. Once the turn comes you need to decide again if you want to check or bet. The flop was pretty draw heavy - flush and straight draws are possible. The K on the turn is a scare card. You bet again, since you only have two opponents in the hand - you could be ahead and want to protect against any draws. You could also make a better hand fold with a bet (you can easily represent the K).
Pre-flop: Hero is MP2 with K

Hero raises, MP3 folds, CO 3-bets, BU calls, 2 folds, Hero caps, CO calls, BU calls.
Flop: (13.50 SB) 7


Hero bets, CO raises, BU calls, Hero calls.
Turn: (9.75 BB) 2
Hero checks, CO bets, BU calls, Hero ?
You see a lot of action before and on the flop in this example. The CO even raised your flop bet after you capped before the flop. You only call because there is so much money in the pot. You then have to reevaluate your hand on the turn.
1) How many discounted outs do you have?
You have 2 overcards on a suited board and are facing two opponents. The BU could have a flush draw, which would taint the A

2) How large is the pot?
~12 BBs.
3) How much will it cost to stay in the hand?
Since you are last to act, you know that you will have to pay exactly 1 BB.
4) Compare the odds to the pot odds: call or fold
With 3 outs you have 14.5:1 odds. You are only getting 12:1 pot odds, so you fold. Granted, this is a tough fold with so much money in the pot, but you can't be sure that an A or a K on the river would give you the best hand.
Pre-flop: Hero is MP1 with A

2 folds, Hero raises, 4 folds, SB calls, BB calls.
Flop: (6.00 SB) 7


SB checks, BB bets, Hero ?
Both of the blinds call your pre-flop raise and the three of you see a single suited flop. You can forget raising, since you don't even have a BDFD or 0-gap BDSD. You can only continue playing according to odds and outs.
1) How many discounted outs do you have?
You have 2 overcards on a singe suited board and are facing two opponents. You can only give yourself 2 outs for your overcards. You do have a 2-gap BDSD, but you can't give yourself any outs for that.
2) How large is the pot?
7 SBs.
3) How much will it cost to stay in the hand?
Staying in the hand will usually cost you 1 SB. It's hard to say how often the SB will check/raise in this situation. He only cold called your pre-flop raise, so he doesn't to be a strong pre-flop player. Judging by that, he shouldn't be too likely to check/raise 2 opponents on such an ugly board.
4) Compare the odds to the pot odds: call or fold
You need 22.5:1 pot odds to call with only 2 outs. You make an easy fold, since you are only getting 7:1.
Pre-flop: Hero is UTG+2 with A

UTG+1 calls, Hero raises, MP1 folds, MP2 calls, MP3 folds, CO calls, 3 folds, UTG+1 calls.
Flop: (9,50 SB) 3


UTG+1 checks, Hero bets, MP2 calls, CO calls, UTG+1 folds.
Turn: (6,25 BB) T
Hero ?
The flop is pretty dry. You make your contibet and get called by two players. And this is exactly why you should bet again: Your opponents will have often called with overcards on the flop and will be willing to give them up on the turn. But they can only do that if you let them. The T isn't much of a scare card, but they will still have to fold, since the pot odds just dropped by 50%.
Pre-flop: Hero is MP3 with A
1 folds, Hero raises, 2 folds, SB calls, BB calls.
Flop: (6 SB) 3


SB checks, BB bets, Hero raises, SB folds, BB calls.
Turn: (5 BB) 4
BB checks, Hero ?
The turn is a blank. The BB's donk on the flop can mean any number of things: flush and straight draws, bottom/middle pair, possibly top pair. He probably doesn't have anything better, since most players would check/raise with 2 opponents in the hand with anything better than top pair.
You're obviously behind against any made hands, but you still want to protect against any draws. Your opponent will be getting 6:1 pot odds, meaning he will need ~6.5 outs to call. This means he will probably call with a flush draw or an OESD, but would be making a mistake in doing so with a gutshot. The odds won't be high enough to call with bottom/middle pair if he sees himself behind, either.
Your bet on the turn could also let you take a free showdown on the river. You can take your overcards to the showdown against any drawing hands. If an ugly card shows up on the river, you can also just check behind (as long as nobody donks). You bet on the turn to protect your hand and for a free showdown.
BB checks, Hero bets, BB raises, Hero ?
Then the BB raises. You can't see yourself ahead any more and can only continue to play according to odds and outs.
1) How many discounted outs do you have?
A check/raise on the turn shows a lot of strength and is rarely a bluff. It's hard to say how many outs you have when you don't have a very good read on your opponent. You need to discount heavily and can give yourself 3-4 outs on your overcards.
2) How large is the pot?
8 BBs.
3) How much will it cost to stay in the hand?
Since you are last to act, you know that it will cost exactly 1 BB.
4) Compare the odds to the pot odds: call or fold
You need at least 11:1 pot odds with 3-4 outs and fold, since you are only getting 8:1.
Conclusion
After reading this article, you should know how to evaluate your overcards on the flop and know exactly what to do in your post-flop play. Remember what those other guys said about Anna, "Looks great but never wins." Now you can be happy every time Anna Kournikova comes your way. She's looking better than ever and you now know how to score.
Your bankroll only stands to profit if you can learn to follow these guidelines. Understanding how to play your overcards correctly will become increasingly important as you make your way up the levels. These are situations you will encounter very often. Making small mistakes doesn't cost much in a single hand, but it can have a severe effect on your win rate over time. Taking the time to improve your game with overcards is definitely worth the effort.
Find out how much you really learned by reading this article:
Test yourself with a quiz: How do you play overcards?