Concepts: The Free Card Raise

Introduction

In this article

• When a free card raise is the best option
  
• Free card raise vs. inducing overcalls
• Free card raises in heads up play
  

A free card raise is a made on the flop with the intent of checking on the turn in order to see the river for free. This move takes advantage of the fact that most players will check to the aggressor from the previous betting round.

A free card raise can be made with a draw or with a hand you would like take to the showdown cheaply (cheap-SD-raise). A cheap-SD-raise, however, is rarely the best option you will have on the flop. This article will focus on free card raises made with drawing hands.

When this move works correctly, you pay a total of 2 SBs = 1 BB to see both the turn and river cards. If you were to call on both the flop and the turn, you would pay a total of 3 SBs = 1.5 BBs to see both the turn and river cards. A free card raise can save you 0.5 BBs. It can, however, end up costing 0.5 BBs more than a call. This happens when your opponent bets the flop, but would not bet the turn.

You can also end up paying 0.5 BBs more when your opponent calls your raise and donks on the turn. In a worst case scenario your opponent could even 3-bet, in which case you would have to pay 1 BB more to see the river than if you had just called on the flop.

As you can see, a free card raise has to work fairly often to offset the disadvantages you can face as opposed to simply calling a small bet on the flop. Note: An exception is made when you have a very strong draw and could view your raise as a value raise.

Another disadvantage: You won't generate any fold equity on the big streets (since your plan is to check) and might give an opponent with his mouse on the fold button a free card that changes his mind.

A check behind on the turn can also be a dead give away to your opponents, which lowers your implied odds when you hit on the river and makes you vulnerable to bluffs.

This article will help you identify situations in which a free card raise your best option on the flop.

The value- and free card raise

A free card can only help you when you are behind. When you are ahead, any free cards only give your opponent the chance to catch up.

A typical free card raise situation: You are facing several opponents and have a strong draw (OESD or flush draw). You will rarely have the best hand at the moment, but your free card raise is also a value raise.

You have nothing to worry about if an opponent 3-bets. You should already know that you can raise strong draws for value when facing two or more opponents, since your equity is above average. Every dollar that enters the pot is like money in your pocket. You should even bet/raise out of position with such a hand.

You should definitely raise for value when you are in position (which is then also a free card raise). You can often buy the button (make the opponent behind you fold so that you will be in position in the next round) with a raise (after players in front of you have already invested!) in a multiway pot. It's kind of like trading one customer (the player behind you) for position, which is a pretty good trade to make in this situation. You can almost always raise with a strong draw when you are in position in a multiway pot.

When shouldn't you make a free card raise with a strong draw?

You should just call whenever a raise would force opponents, who would call a single bet, to fold. You want to see as many opponents in the hand as possible when you are on a draw. Raising could isolate yourself against stronger hands, which is the last thing you want to do.

Pre-flop: Hero is CO with AT

2 folds, UTG calls, MP calls, Hero raises, BU calls, 1 folds, BB calls, UTG calls, MP calls.

Flop:(10.5 SB) J, 5, 7
BB checks, UTG checks, MP bets, Hero calls for overcall

You could probably see a free card on the turn if you raised, but you would most likely force the opponents behind you to fold. You can't consider your raise to be a value raise when only one opponent is in the hand.

In this example, you should call to induce overcalls from the players behind you. They will often stay in the hand for one bet, but fold to two.

Pre-flop: Hero is CO with AT

2 folds, UTG calls, MP calls, Hero raises, BU calls,1 folds, BB calls, UTG calls, MP calls.

Flop:(10.5 SB) J, 5, 7
BB bets, UTG calls, MP calls, Hero raises for Value and free card

You do have one opponent behind you, but there are three other players in the hand that won't be folding for one more bet, so you don't have to worry about scaring him off. You might even prefer to see him fold, since that would then put you in position in later rounds. You could then decide to take a free card if you don't complete on the turn.

Your raise on the flop is for value and gives you the chance to buy the button, which allows you to either take a free card on the turn, or raise for value when you complete.

Pre-flop: Hero is CO with AQ

1 folds, MP calls, Hero raises, BU calls, 1 fold, BB calls, MP calls

Flop:(9.5 SB) T, K, 7
BB checks, MP bets, Hero raises, BU folds, BB calls, MP calls.

Turn:(7.75 BB) 3
UTG checks, MP checks, Hero checks.

You can also raise for a free card with weaker draws. You have a gutshot + overcard in this example, which is a medium-strong draw. You raise, because you may be able to buy the button and force better hands behind you out of the pot. You can then take a free card if you do not improve on the turn.

Imagine MP is on an OESD. Your raise forces weak made hands that are actually ahead to fold and isolates you against an opponent with a weaker hand. Another possibility: You buy outs. An opponent behind you could have a small pair with a Q or A kicker. You can 'clean' your overcard outs by making him fold to a raise. You win two additional outs and don't risk investing with the 2nd best hand if you hit an overcard.

Cap for free card

You can also cap for a free card parallel to raising for a free card. You want to show strength so that your opponents check to you on the turn. They may even want to check/raise, which allows you to spoil their plans in taking your free card. This is a great move to make when your hand is strong enough to define your raise as a value raise.

Pre-flop: Hero is BU with AT
UTG calls, 2 folds, Hero raises, SB calls, BB calls, UTG calls.

Flop:(8 SB) J, 5, 7
SB checks, BB bets, UTG calls, Hero raises, SB calls, BB 3-bets, UTG folds, Hero caps (for free card and value), SB calls, BB calls.

Keep in mind, this kind of situation is pretty rare in short handed games, and you will rarely see the flop with three or more opponents in higher limits (and can therefore rarely combine a free card and value raise).

You can often semi-bluff with a strong draw to generate fold equity when only one or two opponents are still in the hand. You will rarely be able to generate any fold equity with a free card raise on the flop, however, since calling will only cost your opponents one small bet.

This should make a free card raise less appealing. As the limits increase, opponents tend not only to become tighter, but also more aggressive. This makes a free card raise even less likely to succeed, since opponents will often 3-bet on the flop. Good opponents know what a free card raise is and why you are doing it. They also know what counter-line to play. In general, free card raises are of less importance in short handed games and when facing good, aggressive opponents.

You will often end up in heads up situations after the flop, in which free card raises tend to be disadvantageous. We will now take a look at a few situations, in which you should not raise for a free card.

The disadvantages

Many players like their free card raises, even though this move has a number of disadvantages and can be easily exploited by attentive opponents. Even poor opponents can ruin your plans with a donk or a 3-bet. So when should you not raise for a free card on the flop?

Maniacs and LAGs are often overaggressive with marginal hands. They re-raise a lot, sometimes as a bluff. There is little sense in trying a free card raise against such an opponent, because they won't check to give you a free card on the turn and might even 3-bet you on the flop.

TAGs are a poor target, as well. TAGs use bet/3-bet flop, bet turn as a standard line when oop with initiative. They are always trying to protect their hand and don't like giving away free cards (and you better watch out for a trap when they do). They tend to play middle made hands, as well as draws and strong hands, straightforwardly on the flop when they are oop, especially on draw heavy boards. Chances are that your free card raise will not work out the way you intend it to. You should also keep in mind that you can generate much more fold equity against TAGs on the big streets (as long as they are not showdown bound). A bet on the turn or call flop, bet turn usually promises higher EV than a raise flop, check behind on turn.

Donkeys, or opponents who bet into the player with initiative, are very poor targets. They tend to be semi-aggressive fish (stats like 40/13/1,1/43).
They may not 3-bet often, but they will rarely let you see a free card when they have a playable hand.

Stats are on indication of how likely a player is to donk, but they aren't enough on their own. You should take notes and try to get a good table read.

Many opponents tend to call the flop and donk the turn when they hit top pair on a low board. They usually want to see the turn card before they decide to invest any more. As soon as they see another low/mid card on the turn they feel safe and are ready to invest. This is actually a great counter-line to your free card raise, even though most of them don't even realize it.

The main reason why free card raises are rarely your best option in heads up is that you don't get the chance to win the pot without going to the showdown. You also don't need to generate as much fold equity with your raise when you have a draw and are heads up for a raise to be profitable. There is only one opponent in the hand, see if you can push him out with a little aggression. Raise flop, bet turn would be a good line; call flop, raise turn even better.

Pre-flop: Hero is BB with 56

SB raises, Hero calls.

Flop:(10.5 SB) J, 7, 4

SB bets, Hero raises, SB calls.

Turn:(11.75 BB) K
SB checks, Hero checks

River:(11.75 BB) 2
SB checks, Hero checks

SB shows: Q8

You were able to raise for a free card, but you weren't able to win the pot unimproved. If you had played for fold equity and bet the turn (or played call flop, raise turn), you would have won.

A lot of players end up shooting themselves in the foot when they raise for a free card, because they actually have the best hand are giving their opponent the free card. You need to protect your hand against 6-outers in these situations.

Pre-flop: Hero is BB with A2

SB raises, Hero calls.

Flop:(10.5 SB) 6, 7, 4

SB bets, Hero raises, SB calls.

Turn:(11.75 BB) 4
SB checks, Hero checks

River:(11.75 BB) J

SB bets, Hero calls

SB shows TJ

You have good equity and are often ahead against the SB's open raising range. You should either just call, or bet on the turn if you raise on the flop. Raise flop, check behind on turn doesn't give you the chance to make better hands fold and gives your opponent a free card for a 6-outer.

Any time you raise on the flop with the intention of getting to the river as cheaply as possible, in order to then call a bet and go to the showdown (like in our example), you are making a cheap-SD-raise.

This move is rarely your best option, since you usually just give your opponent a free card for a 6-outer on the turn and open the door for a re-bluff on the flop.

We've seen quite a few examples make the free card raise look like a pretty poor move. Now it's time to look at a few examples in which a free card raise can be a profitable line.

When can you raise for a free card heads up?

Obviously, you should only raise for a free card when it is likely to work. You will have to judge the likelihood of facing a 3-bet on the flop or donk bet on the turn based on the board and the opponents in the hand.

These opponents will rarely 3-bet the flop or donk the turn, even when they have strong hands. You can also consider making a free card raise when you don't think you have any chance at forcing a better hand out of the pot. You should try to win unimproved against opponents with a low WTS with a bluff bet on the turn (or call flop, raise turn).

As we already mentioned, many supposedly passive opponents can donk the turn after you raise the flop. Keep a watchful eye on your opponents and take notes. This will help you find the right spots for a free card raise.

SB: 35 / 14 / 1.0 / 45 (VPIP / PFR / AF / WTS)

Pre-flop: Hero is BB with T9

SB raises, Hero calls.

Flop:(4 SB) 6, 7, 3

SB bets, Hero raises, SB calls.

Turn:(4 BB) 4
SB checks, Hero checks

River:(4 BB) T
SB checks, Hero bets, SB calls.

Your opponent is pretty passive before the flop, meaning he will have either have a pocket pair, or A/K high after open raising. He is also too showdown bound to be forced out of the hand. This is a poor spot for a bluff, but a good one for a free card raise. Your opponent is too passive to 3-bet with anything less than a big pocket pair (and there a number of other hands in his range).

A lot of players (including most TAGs) play strong made hands and draws straightforwardly when oop (bet/3-bet flop, bet turn). There is little sense in raising for a free card against such opponents. Other opponents like to wait for the turn to check/raise with their strong hands (bet/call flop, check/raise turn). There is quite a bit of sense in raising for a free card against these opponents.

You can use this line once you've made the correct table read. Stats can be an indication that an opponent tends to wait for the turn to check/raise. A higher Turn-AF than Flop-AF is one sign. You can also look at the "check/raise turn" value (though this doesn't tell you how they played the flop before check/raising the turn). Most TAGs have a check/raise turn value of 9-12%. Any value higher than 15% can indicate that a player likes to wait for the turn to show aggression.

Opponents are also much more likely to check/raise the turn on dry boards. They think there is less need to protect and will either put you on a made hand or a bluff. He will then assume that you will either bet the turn to protect your hand or continue your bluff. Even TAGs will play this line under the right circumstances, which in turn allows you to raise for a free card. This can be a great option when you have a very hidden draw.

SB: TAG

Pre-flop: Hero is BU with 67

Hero raises, SB 3-bets, BB folds, Hero calls.

Flop:(7 SB) Q, 8, 4

SB bets, Hero raises, SB calls.

Turn:(3 BB) 4
SB checks, Hero checks

The TAG will rarely 3-bet on this flop. He will never put you on a draw, but rather a made hand or a bluff. In either case, he will want to wait for the turn to show any aggression, since he assumes you will bet the turn with either a made hand or as a 2nd barrel bluff. This is a good spot for a free card raise with your gutshot draw. You even generate a small amount of fold equity with your raise on the flop.

You are assuming that your opponent will take a hand like A high to the showdown, which is why there is little sense in bluffing again on the turn. If you were facing a weak opponent, you should try to force him out of the hand with a 2nd barrel.

A flop raise can generate fold equity on some boards. Most opponents will fold to a flop raise when they don't have at least an overcard and a draw. However, this is usually only the case when there is at least one high card on the board.

If your opponent calls on the flop, he probably has a playable hand that he won't fold to a bet on the turn. You can profit by taking a free card on the turn when you have a weaker hand by combining a semi-bluff with a free card raise on the flop.

Of course, you do risk running into a 3-bet. This, however, is not a particularly high risk on dry boards with a high card, since your opponent will rarely have hit or be able to play a draw aggressively.

SB: 28, 22, 1.8, 35

Pre-flop: Hero is BU with 89

Hero raises, SB 3-bets, 1 folds, Hero calls.

Flop:(7 SB) 5, 6, A

SB bets, Hero raises, SB calls.

Turn:(5.5 BB) 4
SB checks, Hero checks

River:(5.5 BB) 7
SB checks, Hero bets, SB calls.

Your opponent is aggressive pre-flop and will 3-bet a BU raise with many K high hands, as well as suited queens and jacks. These are all hands he could easily fold on the flop thinking he is drawing dead. If he doesn't fold, you can be pretty sure he has a pair that he wants to take to the showdown and can take a free card on the turn.

Your opponent will probably only call on the flop in order to check/raise on the turn if he has a decent ace. This would be an ideal spot for a free card raise. He will also play a lot of aces way ahead/way behind (passive). The fold equity you can generate on the flop against better hands makes this a particularly good spot for a free card raise.

Don't forget to keep your play balanced. You need to be able to raise the flop with made hands, as well, or a good thinking opponent will have an easy time spotting your semi-bluff/free card raise.

Conclusion

Free card raises don't tend to work as often as they did in the past, simply because the game has taken on a much more aggressive nature, which makes the chances of actually being able to take a free card on the turn sink.

Free card raises also have other disadvantages. You should be certain that you don't have the best hand and ask yourself if a different line would generate more fold equity against better hands before you raise for a free card.

Still, there are situations in which a free card raise is your best option. A free card raise can be a profitable line when you are on a draw and facing passive, showdown bound opponents, and when you can generate fold equity with a bet on the flop.

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